[rodder]

:banghead: Got the bike back from Tibby's H.D in springfield Mass. on friday. :banghead: Brought her in for the fuel flange recall, the clank in the front end, coolant leak that runs down frame, have them look at clutch ,engages at the end, have her dynoed, and the braided coolant hose installed. Let me first say that i am mechanically inclined. I work on all my own snowmobiles and built two custom softails from ground up. Just didn't want coolant hose to leak after install and thought it would be worth the $100 dollars boy what a mistake. I usually don't bash but i'm gonna let it go. Had them do a baseline with what i had the box set up at. The REV Tech box has four adjustments the fourth being where the mid blends with the top end. My settings were 4-7-3.5 RPM at 7. 110 H.P 77# of tourqe. Their settings 3-3-2 RPM at 4 113 H.P 78# of tourqe. Service guy not the tech said she should pull harder not the case she use to burn the tire alot better on a roll, i'm also running topless with their set up.Fuel flange went o.k.The front end they said was set up to factory specs, but still clanks.Said the coolant bottle was overfilled so they drained some fluid. Haven't noticed any leaking since getting her back.Now the coolant hose made a mess of my bike wich is always spotless so i didn't notice all the scratches on my rear pipe heatshield from idiot rubbing the srewdriver handle on it and the fins in the front and rear cylinders got the same treatment. . Of course when i picked up the bike we did the usual walk around but i was so pissed about the mess the bike was in i didin't notice the scratches also scratched the airbox cover very small but its the point. Thinking of going back to the original settings to see if it goes better and probably gonna put the airbox cover back on, makes a rattling noise when i rev her above 5000.So boys looks like i'm on my own from here out i'll do all my own wrenching since ther are no independent wrenches that work on V-RODS in my area. So i'll need as much advice as i can get. :helpme: They charged me 220 to dyno the bike that didn't make any difference and to install the coolant hose that they scratched everything around it :banghead: Boy i just can't win and to top it all off the old lady moved out yesterday, but she can be replaced :rofl: :boobs: :cheers: They are gonna get an earfull from me this week i know they won't make good on their hackery but it'll make me feel better.Good thing i wrote down my original settings i had on the box so i can put her back to my settings. :sad:

 

[rodder]

They also said the clutch was the same as the other four rods they had there. :bs: Thinking about shimming the slave cylinder out like someone else did on this forum.

 

[mr_vrodder]

Kick their asses, they left your bike dirty deliberatley to hide the scratches, it's called deception.

let us know how you get on and good luck.

 

[SKIROD]

Rodder, IMHO the only true HP gains can only be achived with a race tuner or race fueler, and a tech that knows what they are doing. I have installed them all, and found these two to be the best. Enough said. The rattle you hear is the intake valves doing there job. If you remove your air cleaner and open the throttle, you will see the valves. Sorry that there is not more techs like myself that care so much about this bike. Coolant bottle overflows are the rusult of the return line from the filler neck to the bottle pinched underneath the lower airbox. Check this, they may have not fixed the main problem. Later SKI

 

[rodder]

:cheers: Thanx SKI-ROD for clearing that noise i hear when i crack the thottle. Could hear it with the top on just not as loud.Just picked up the DYNO sheet wwith the two set ups.at 3000 RPM's my original set up pulled 10 horses more than theirs.For tourqe it pulled about 8#'s more at 3000. It stayed the same until 6000 at wich my set up pulls pulled just about 5 horses and about 4#'s of tourqe not that much but it sure lit up the wheel easier. Going back to my settings just running topless. :boobs: :boobs:

 

[rodder]

:helpme: :helpme: Hey Ski Rod what do you think about shimming out the clutch slave cylinder? Clutch lets way out at the end but doesn't slip. Someone said to shim it .035 of an inch. Could i find that thickness washer at a hardware store? Thanx.

 

[danafwelch]

Suggestion: find who the regional HDI rep is and start with that person. It's been a good way to solve dealer related issues out this way.

 

[ElrodontheV-Rod]

Send the general manager an email and ask for an appointment to chew him a new one.Demand they fix the scratches.The tech should have been using a socket not a screw driver.If that does'nt work talk to the zone manager.Or just keep lookin for the a-hole tech out and about and punch him right in the head. :chair:


Elrod on the V-Rod

 

[SKIROD]

About the clutch shimm'in, Your on your own. This is not recomended by me. Later SKI

 

[0rest 0har]

I can't speak to your application -- my clutch seems to release progressively -- I don't know if it is a fix to your situation. The shaft spacers can be bought from many places on the Internet. These are precision shaft spacers, I doubt that hardware stores deal in stacking bearings (the original application for such a shim).

Most Shaft spaces come in fractional sizes, but you can stack multiple together to hit your number. These are two places where I shop. Both have metric areas to their catalog:

http://www.wmberg.com/catalog/catresults.cfm?CatType=HARDWARE AND FASTENERS&CatGroup=BEARING SPACER

http://www.mcmaster.com/asp/enter.asp?pagenum=3033

 

[greenham]

That's what I did, on another Vrodders advice... It fixed the problem nicely... 50 cents worth of washers and 5 min of install, and more freeplay and no slipping.

They also said the clutch was the same as the other four rods they had there. :bs: Thinking about shimming the slave cylinder out like someone else did on this forum.

 

[Super Kaz]

Are You Running Synthetic oil?i was Told buy a Very Good Source that the V-rod Clutches do Not like Syn. Oil!

 

[Greg687]

Kax Mine has always been like that. Clutch seems to engage at the end of the lever travel. I heard that when hot it could slip, but I havent seen that yet. I have been wondering about this fix. Greenham, do you remember the link to that how-to??

 

[greenham]

not sure how to link you to the proper mesage dircetly. Do a search on slipping. This is thepost from Redrazor.

***************************************

Like I said before....

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I posted a long story on how I totally fixed my clutch slipping problem about 2 months ago. It worked fine after I added (3) .040" washers under the clutch slave cylinder assembley on the right side of the tranny. A few weeks
later, I made the change more "professional" by removing the throw out bearing center pin, and machining .040" off the end of the pin on my lathe, and getting rid of the (3) washers I had used before. The clutch grabs right where it is supposed to, and never slips...even at full throttle shifts. The factory set the clearance up to tight; and when the engine get warm/hot, there is virtually no clearance between the slave cylinder and the throw-out bearing. If you don't have a lathe, then the washer/spacer idea will work fine for you. You don't really need a new clutch, 90% of the time.
redrazor

 

[redrazor]

...and it keeps on ticking....

The clutch modification (removed .040" from throw-out pin); still performing flawlessly. I was a little bit worried about moving the "O" ring seals out of their original seating groves with the spacer/washer fix; although it did not seem to make any problems for the month or so I was using it. good luck
redrazor

 

[SKIROD]

I am truly baffeld. What exactly are we talk'in about here, and should this be adressed with the factory? If so, I am your link. This is the first I have heard of this problem. Sorry guys, I should of looked into this sooner. Later SKI.

 

[rodder]

:cheers: Shimmed out the slave cylinder and it seemed to help. I am running synthetic changed to it at 1000. Almost seems like thats when it started happening. Probably go back to regular HARLEY oil just change it more often seeing i'm pretty hard on the bike. Put my air box top back on and set the REV TECH DFO back to original settings just a little leaner in the mid and she lites up the tire like she's on water. When i had the mid set at 7 she would blow some black smoke (to much fuel) when i cracked her off an idle, set it at 5.5 and no more smoke. My buddie was behind me on his BLOWER bike he is working on and said i layed over 200 feet of rubber on a roll on. Wouldn't do that with the STEALERS set up. He also couldn't catch me on his bike but were still tuning his bike a little more. His motor without the blower was pulling 140 to the rear wheel so smething isn't right.