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Discussion Starter #1
In an effort to fix my clutch that would be soft at first then hard as a rock then the clutch slips I decided to flush the clutch fluid. I bought brand new DOT5 fluid and attached my Mighty Vac to the bleed screw hole. And within about 10 min, all the fluid was now purple. the old stuff was a dirty brown.

I made sure the reservoir never got low. When all was said and done. NOTHING the clutch lever has NOTHING behind it. I can only assume that taking the bleed screw OUT and putting the might vac in is my problem. I could get all the air out but removing the tool, only introduced lots of air into the line. I have tried the manual method and get nothing. No air, no fluid, NOTHING. The manual states that using a Snap on basic vacuum bleeder to initailly draw the fluid out w/ little to no air getting in.

Does anyone have any ideas?
 

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Banned
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Dealership? :spank:
 

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Color me Gone
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There are two things to try. First thing to try may sound funny but with some cars it seems to be the only way to get a clutch on them after either a master or slave change and only takes about 5 minutes. Very slowly (1 second strokes) pump the clutch at least 100 times and see if it starts to pick up. The reason to do this in a nice slow pace is the fluid will bubble and force more air down the line if you pump to fast. If that fails then I suggest gravity bleeding the system but that will take a while on that system and requires that the cap stay off the entire time that you do it.

Max
 

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Craig Fehr
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I had the same problem with mine when I replaced the master cylinders. Like Max said, just keep pumping it and eventually it will come around. After you've pumped it and are getting some resistance, open the bleeder again to make sure all of the air is out.
 

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The best method by far is a tube to fit over the nipple and on the other end of the tube you attach a one way valve. This allows you to pressure the air out and block new air from entering the system. I can sell you the kit for $16 plus shipping. You can use it on all brake lines too.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I tried for the last hour to do the slow pump. after 1 hr, not even a little better. How do you gravity bleed a system?

I don't understand why this system is so different for all the other hydraulic systems I have done w/ the vacuum pump in the past.


Max said:
There are two things to try. First thing to try may sound funny but with some cars it seems to be the only way to get a clutch on them after either a master or slave change and only takes about 5 minutes. Very slowly (1 second strokes) pump the clutch at least 100 times and see if it starts to pick up. The reason to do this in a nice slow pace is the fluid will bubble and force more air down the line if you pump to fast. If that fails then I suggest gravity bleeding the system but that will take a while on that system and requires that the cap stay off the entire time that you do it.

Max
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The problem is that the clutch doesn't have a nipple on it at all. It has just a screw. why the MoCo didn't put a bleeding nipple on it is beyond me.

Derek said:
The best method by far is a tube to fit over the nipple and on the other end of the tube you attach a one way valve. This allows you to pressure the air out and block new air from entering the system. I can sell you the kit for $16 plus shipping. You can use it on all brake lines too.
 

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Greg/Moderator
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You will have to fill up the reservoir and open the bleeder and wait, this is slow but does work.
 

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Color me Gone
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greenham to gravity bleed do not touch the clutch lever, simply keep the reservoir full and let it run out at the bottom.
 

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Pat's Fan
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I have recently done this. In the manual it says to first bleed the master cylinder first. What you have to do is fill the res, squeeze the handle a few times and loosen the Banjo bolt till it sqirts from there.........or all the bubbles are out and youve got solid fluid running from the banjo bolt area. THEN you can go down and bleed the clutch from the screw under the cover.

I had the exact same thing.........nuting behind the lever and pumped forever........re-read the manual and was done in no time afterwards

Good luck!
 

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Greg/Moderator
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greenham... Lets us know how you make out, I have to change out new bars and new controls. Thinking about doing this myself STEELER :spank: wants 5.0 hrs($300.00) to R$R bars, controls and run wiring in the bars. They wonder why we call them steelers this is too much in my opinion. Thanks Greg
 

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Pat's Fan
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VrodG,

Save the 300 and do it yourself. I just did it (because i painted my controls) and also put my wires inside the bars. It was a good job to do. I really enjoyed doing it. It got me to know just alittle more abou the bike. There is a really good thread in the "how to" section that will help out a ton with the wiring in the bars.
Also the Manual will help out too. I did refer to it acouple times as well.
It might help to take some pictures as you take it apart if your unsure you will remember how to put it back together. (or take detailed notes).

Good luck........and have fun
 

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Color me Gone
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Greg to do drag bars and change to chrome masters and switch housings took me less then an hour including running the wiring inside the bars. When I made the change I had no problem at all bleeding my system by simply pumping about 15 times on each very slowly and then top off the fluid, I did make sure to keep the lines up during the change so they did not bleed off.

Max
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Max,

all night I left it open and not so much as a drop. the master cyclinder didn't drop at all. I am going to try to get a russle bleed valve that will fit the screw tonight.

I appriciate everyones input. I have tried everyones ideas, so far without success. But having the ideas coming in does make for a more calm process.

Thanks Guys. I will keep the board updated.



Max said:
greenham to gravity bleed do not touch the clutch lever, simply keep the reservoir full and let it run out at the bottom.
 

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Greg/Moderator
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greenham ... Did you lossen the banjo fitting and start there?CW-VROD idea sounded good and per the manual? Max I'm going with the reduced reach bars, I 'm going to try to do this my self was just wonder how tough it was to bleed the systems. Thanks Greg
 

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Pat's Fan
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CW-VRod said:
I have recently done this. In the manual it says to first bleed the master cylinder first. What you have to do is fill the res, squeeze the handle a few times and loosen the Banjo bolt till it sqirts from there.........or all the bubbles are out and youve got solid fluid running from the banjo bolt area. THEN you can go down and bleed the clutch from the screw under the cover.

I had the exact same thing.........nuting behind the lever and pumped forever........re-read the manual and was done in no time afterwards

Good luck!
I noticed that you said youve had no luck..........when you bleed the Master Cylinder you need to make sure the cover is on (i know this may sound stupid but i didnt say it last time) while your pumping the handle........b4 you losen the Banjo bolt.
Keep trying!
 

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Color me Gone
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Greenham I hadn't heard from you and wanted to see if you had it fixed yet?

Max
 

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The problem is probably your master cylinder.

What I have had to do it some cases is to remove the master cylinder, hold it vertical with the cover on, pour brake fluid in the opening where the brake hose attaches until it quits bubbling. and slowly pump the lever. This seems to get the master cylinder to work in most cases. After you get the master cylinder to pumping, keep it as vertical as you can and reattach the hose.

This method has worked for me several times when I couldn't get pressure any other way.
 

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Dam if all this stuff don't work get a Big A$$ Sledge Hammer and Cold Forge it! :chair: ;)
 
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