I tested the starter which is good 👍
I tested the solenoid which is good👍
I bought a brand new battery 🔋
No engine codes (no tip code either)
No bad fuses
No bad relays
All I can hear when I try to start it is one loud click sound which I think is the solenoid
When I took off the starter to test it, I put my finger on the little gear that the starter is supposed to spin to start the motorcycle. the teeth were not damaged.

Place a clamp on amp meter on the starter cable and see what amp draw you have when you hear that click. Do you hear any other sounds, like the starter actually spinning but not turning engine over?
Ron

 

Testing for actual voltage is the best way to start. Is the starter getting 12+ volts when you try to crank it over? A voltmeter or a test light that shows actual voltage is best bet. Test for bad ground by connecting at battery positive and touching engine/frame. No Crank and No Start are two different things.

 

Looks like I'm getting 4.6 volts on the starter

 

If you are only getting 4.6v at the starter then go back to the starter solenoid and check voltages on both posts (one from battery is hot at all times/ one to starter only when start button pressed). The plate within the solenoid is prone to pitting due to arcing when making contact, this can cause voltage drop. This is why I suggested a voltmeter or test light that actually shows true voltage, as a lot of the newer test lights only have a LED and it doesn't take much voltage to light them.

Snap On Test Light

Snap On test light shows ground or positive and shows the voltage.

youtube.com

 

So I'm getting 14.53 volt from the wire that runs to the battery to the solenoid
I'm getting 6.43 volts from the stud of the solenoid that connects to the starter

 

That means a bad solenoid right sir?

 

I'd say so. If you jump the two terminals it should crank over. No doubt the contacts have some serious oxidation on them , so the unit is trash.
Ron

 

Now you're getting it! 🤟 Replace that puppy

 

That means a bad solenoid right sir?

Sure sounds like it to me - you may be able to jump solenoid but it will take some pigtails you can disconnect so you don't melt the threads on the wire terminals - do it off the bike with another battery to vindicate science or just get another solenoid / starter -

 

So I replaced the the solenoid and I'm still having the same issue it won't crank or start

 

I'm getting 6.8 volts when trying to start the bike with
the volt meter lead is on the solenoid that connects to the starter
And the other lead I have it on the ground of the starter

2nd test I have one lead on the power side of The solenoid and the second lead on the ground of the battery 6.8 volts when trying to start

3rd test
Positive of the battery has one lead and the 2nd lead is on the ground of the battery

6.8 volts when trying to start

When not trying to start the bike I have 12.8 volts

 

And the engine is not stuck somehow. No other maintenance at the time. Was it running ok prior starter problems arises?

 

I was having transmission issues, tried taking to a mechanic but none of them that are near me wanted to work on it at all because it's a vrod.

So I had to do all the work myself I took mechanic classes in high school and I went to college for it as well but that was back in 2016-2018
There was an issue inside the transmission that was causing shifting issues
now it shifts but I can't get it to start
I put a new clutch basket
New everything in the clutch side

 

Test the amperage draw on the starter cable. If way over spec, it might be the starter limiter . Based on way too low of voltage the amp draw must be really high also. Normal amp draw should be between 80-120. If over 120 amp the limiter could be the problem. That item has been responsible for many a new battery and starter changes, only to find out, that wasn't the problem to begin with.
Ron

 

Interesting I'll try that out after work today, I was gonna try push starting it as well to see if maybe the starter is just not strong enough to spin

 

Again - have you tested the starter off the bike to vindicate science that it's not shorted out internally, and that it actually spins ?? You gotta do that before going after the limiter - you gotta have knowns when troubleshooting anything.

 

Yes I took the starter off the motorcycle and bench tested it was spinning before I put it back on the bike

 

This is why I suggested a voltmeter or test light that actually shows true voltage, as a lot of the newer test lights only have a LED and it doesn't take much voltage to light them.

 

Are you sure the engine actually turns by hand? That is the sort of voltage readings I would expect if the motor was locked.

 

I was having transmission issues, tried taking to a mechanic but none of them that are near me wanted to work on it at all because it's a vrod.

There was an issue inside the transmission that was causing shifting issues
now it shifts but I can't get it to start
I put a new clutch basket
New everything in the clutch side

OK ! So now there is the whole story - it's best to offer that up front to properly troubleshoot the problem - Next Questions -
Will the bike roll in neutral at this time or is it stuck in gear ?
Do you have a neutral light visible ?
Was there any locking devise installed to prevent rotation of the crankshaft ?
Will the engine rotate if you pull the spark plugs out ?
Is there any way installing the clutch that you got the clutch basket jammed in place and effectively locked the engine up ?
Did the engine turn over ( rotate ) if you put it in gear and tried to bump start it ?
Personally I would not try to start it until you ensure the crankshaft rotates with the spark plugs out.

 

I was having transmission issues, tried taking to a mechanic but none of them that are near me wanted to work on it at all because it's a vrod.

So I had to do all the work myself I took mechanic classes in high school and I went to college for it as well but that was back in 2016-2018
There was an issue inside the transmission that was causing shifting issues
now it shifts but I can't get it to start
I put a new clutch basket
New everything in the clutch side

Open small round cover from alternator side by two M6 screws. Try to rotate engine carefully with 36mm socket there. Turn only counter clockwise! Does it rotate freely? Of course there is some resistance from the piston compressions.

Are you sure the engine actually turns by hand? That is the sort of voltage readings I would expect if the motor was locked.

That I was wondering also. There could be somekind of hassle with the new clutch basket now. Clutch cover might be reason.

 

This was hidden on my post -

OK ! So now there is the whole story - it's best to offer that up front to properly troubleshoot the problem - Next Questions -
Will the bike roll in neutral at this time or is it stuck in gear ?
Do you have a neutral light visible ?
Was there any locking devise installed to prevent rotation of the crankshaft ?
Will the engine rotate if you pull the spark plugs out ?
Is there any way installing the clutch that you got the clutch basket jammed in place and effectively locked the engine up ?
Did the engine turn over ( rotate ) if you put it in gear and tried to bump start it ?
Personally I would not try to start it until you ensure the crankshaft rotates with the spark plugs out.

Note : 36MM socket will need a thin wall to rotate engine CCW from left side - if you suspect a clutch related problem just remove clutch cover and you can rotate engine CW from that side with the spark plugs out -

 

Will the bike roll in neutral at this time or is it stuck in gear ?
Yes it rolls in neutral and it rolls on first but it is a little bit harder than last time

Do you have a neutral light visible ?
Yes neutral lights on

Was there any locking devise installed to prevent rotation of the crankshaft ?
No

Will the engine rotate if you pull the spark plugs out ?
I will try that out today

Is there any way installing the clutch that you got the clutch basket jammed in place and effectively locked the engine up ?
I don't think so but that's something I was wondering about, I got the TASK CLUTCH BASKET

 

Removing clutch cover will leak some oil and might be the sticking cause. That is why I suggested turning from alternator first. Even it requires thin wall 36mm socket.

I have had problem with billet basket long ago that it rubbed internally clutch cover when cover screws were tightened. Had to remove some material there. I think I had VP clutch then also. Cannot remember exactly which rubbed and where but it will be noticed easily. Taking out clutch actuator might reveal problem too. There should be enough clearance with feeler gauge measuring from the actuator hole. Hopefully clutch is otherwise assembled correctly.

 

Those three star shaped casting supports and center ring were leaning on the clutch. I have removed some material there. Not very much. Few millimeters perhaps.

Also wish to point out that this is not necessarily case here but one possible cause for the engine sticking if billet parts were used.

 

Note : 36MM socket will need a thin wall to rotate engine CCW from left side -

Yes thin wall - amazingly I found a sheet metal ( stamped ) plumbing socket set at my local ACE hardware store that fit well enough to turn the engine over. I also found a thinner wall 36MM socket at an auto parts store that worked with a little grinding - Ultimately I lucked into the official H-D wrench that is in the manual, on ebay & snagged that but the other two sockets are a quick way of getting the job done, the first being the fastest if you can find a set. Pretty cheap too.

 

Most of the times socket material is not so hard that you can take diameter little a bit down with regular manual lathe. Few minutes work in local machine shop with coffee and doughnut payment

Good tool for many purposes. E.g. when searching TDC's for the leak tests etc etc.

 

Yeah I made sure I was able to move the engine by hand, but I guess I could double check just to make sure

 

Yeah I made sure I was able to move the engine by hand, but I guess I could double check just to make sure

Again I would remove the spark plugs so you can easily turn the engine all the way thru a few rotations in the proper direction to be sure it's not stopping after 1 turn or something - Hope you didn't turn it backwards in your Mx activities you can get the cam timing messed up doing that and the cam chain or valves hitting the piston can lock up the engine until you re-instate the proper chain or timing setup. I would turn the engine thru with the plugs out to be sure nothing on the clutch side is binding it up, if it's a smooth turn thru try the starter with the plugs out but I'm pretty sure you may figure out the problem before then. Do you have a H-D V Rod Service Manual ?

 

Go with the amperage test. Your voltage is way too low- caused by either high mechanical resistance (and therefore night amp draw) or high voltage drop to the starter. This can be tested with a voltmeter. One lead on the positive battery terminal, the other on the positive starter terminal. Crank it over- you should have less than 1/2 vilt

 

I'll do the amperage test first, thank you for all of your help. I've been working on this bike for 2 whole weeks after work everyday and I don't stop working on it until 2am or 3 am then go to work at 9. I was really trying so hard to make sure everything is spot on and correctly installed.

 

Did this all happen right after you replaced the clutch, as a result of replacing the clutch?