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I finally got some sound behind my bike. To save money I took members 'Dark HD' and 'thedak' s advice and v-modded and cut my pipes myself. This was simple and easy, very little mechanical experience needed. Here is a quick explanation to do do the same for anyone who is interested:

1)Take off the pipes by removing the 2 bolts holding the pipes together and the two bolts attached to the frame (6mm hex head). Also, loosen the clamps securing the cans to the exhaust pipe (15mm socket)...it may be necessary to remove the lower exhaust pipe guard (the black exhaust pipe cover) to gain access to the lower clamp. Simply remove the two torx-head screws (T-25 size) that easily come off.

2) Pull off cans and mark them with blue painters tape (this tape does not leave any residue and assists with keeping the saw from bouncing around) wherever you wish to cut them. Use a sawzall and a fresh 10-inch metal blade (about $2 bucks apiece) for each can. They cut in half REALLY easy. Dump out the two baffles (wear golves as the fiberglass outer baffle will leave you hurting).

3) Lightly pound the black end caps back onto your new 'stubby' pipes with a rubber mallet. Additionally, even though the caps will be quite secure now, figure out a discreet location to put in a sheet metal screw to hold the caps further. I drilled a 3/32 hole and put in small, high temp, sheet metal screw on the backside (side facing the bike) of each can.

4) Put the pipes back on. If you care, HD told me to make the clamp screws tight, the bolt attaching the cans together and to the frame should me around 25 pounds torque, and the screws in the heat shield (if you took them off) should be around 7 pounds torque.

5) Get a EFI device (I went with a PCIII from v-mod with a preloaded map)and let your smile get bigger!

I have attached some pictures and some sound threads...I hope they work
 

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Discussion Starter #2
A stationary sound slip as well:
 

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"Beyond the Pale"
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:thumb:
 

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Kicking cancer's ass
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Awesome.

Shortening mine is on my list of "might do" projects.

Not sure what you did with the interior of the endcaps, but here's what I did to clean mine up (and in my case, quiet the idle sound a bit). You can go with a larger interior hole to clean up the edge and not change the sound...

http://www.1130cc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=70294
 

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Looks good Bacon, i"ll put that on my TTD list. Also tell me where you found
your reduced reach handlebars' thanks.

PeterJ
 

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Discussion Starter #10
PeterJ said:
Looks good Bacon, i"ll put that on my TTD list. Also tell me where you found
your reduced reach handlebars' thanks.

PeterJ
My dealership had them in stock when I bought the bike....
 

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Dark Knight
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Excellent job Bacon. They sound and look great. Glad I could be of some help.
 

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Hey guys,

I have a couple of questions.
1) How do you get the end caps off before you cut up the pipe?
2) Is there a way to shorten the baffle and put it back in?

Thanks
 

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Thanks for the sound clips. That shed a lot of light on my research for pipes and sounds. I like how you modd'ed the pipes yourself, but the sound is not for me. I really like the sound of the TABs. Thanks again.
 

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Kicking cancer's ass
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fafafooey said:
Thanks for the sound clips. That shed a lot of light on my research for pipes and sounds. I like how you modd'ed the pipes yourself, but the sound is not for me. I really like the sound of the TABs. Thanks again.
Don't get too caught up on video sound. I did the same mod and these videos don't do it justice.

I've heard both live, and they sound very close to the same...afterall they're both just open tips once you gut the stock pipes.

Even the baffled TAB is just an open throat, finned insert that really just shrinks the inside diameter of the pipe. It doesn't reduce volume that much.

For slipons, about the only reasons to not mod the stockers for free vs. spending the money on aftermarket slipons is for looks if you don't like stock, or the old arguement of keeping the stockers so you can put them on for warranty work.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
NightRoder said:
Hey guys,

I have a couple of questions.
1) How do you get the end caps off before you cut up the pipe?
2) Is there a way to shorten the baffle and put it back in?

Thanks
Answers (I hope)

1)The end caps come off REAL easy by removing the three hex-head nuts attaching them to the cans. I can't remember what size hex head it was, but it was a small metric.

2) The inner baffle (the pipe that runs the length of the cans and sticks out of the end caps) cannot be put back in if you cut the pipes...UNLESS you are one heck of a welder...then you can do anything. The outer baffle is simply the wire mesh with fiberglass. That can be put back in, but I do not know if it will make any difference and I think all the fiberglass will simply blow out the back hole without the inner baffle.
 

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insane vrod posse...
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Good Job!

Bacon said:
I finally got some sound behind my bike. To save money I took members 'Dark HD' and 'thedak' s advice and v-modded and cut my pipes myself. This was simple and easy, very little mechanical experience needed. Here is a quick explanation to do do the same for anyone who is interested:

1)Take off the pipes by removing the 2 bolts holding the pipes together and the two bolts attached to the frame (6mm hex head). Also, loosen the clamps securing the cans to the exhaust pipe (15mm socket)...it may be necessary to remove the lower exhaust pipe guard (the black exhaust pipe cover) to gain access to the lower clamp. Simply remove the two torx-head screws (T-25 size) that easily come off.

2) Pull off cans and mark them with blue painters tape (this tape does not leave any residue and assists with keeping the saw from bouncing around) wherever you wish to cut them. Use a sawzall and a fresh 10-inch metal blade (about $2 bucks apiece) for each can. They cut in half REALLY easy. Dump out the two baffles (wear golves as the fiberglass outer baffle will leave you hurting).

3) Lightly pound the black end caps back onto your new 'stubby' pipes with a rubber mallet. Additionally, even though the caps will be quite secure now, figure out a discreet location to put in a sheet metal screw to hold the caps further. I drilled a 3/32 hole and put in small, high temp, sheet metal screw on the backside (side facing the bike) of each can.

4) Put the pipes back on. If you care, HD told me to make the clamp screws tight, the bolt attaching the cans together and to the frame should me around 25 pounds torque, and the screws in the heat shield (if you took them off) should be around 7 pounds torque.

5) Get a EFI device (I went with a PCIII from v-mod with a preloaded map)and let your smile get bigger!

I have attached some pictures and some sound threads...I hope they work

GREAT WRITE UP MAN....... :D I could do that this winter and send it off to Jet-Hot for coating.
 

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Thanks for the info Bacon.

I really like look of those shortenned pipes.
 
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