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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Max:

After doing extensive research, I saw where you assisted smoothrod and others on how to install the CFR series 1 swingarm. I am at wits end. I need help bad.

I have an "A" mdel bike. Everything is going fine but when I go to put the axel bolt through the wheel, it is too big for the brake caliber. The axel bolt is way to big for the hole for my rear brake caliber. Am I missing something here. I even took the axel bolt out of the wheel and tried to fit it thru the brake caliber hole naked, and it is way to big and appears not designed to go thru the caliber hole.

Also, the CFR pully provided will not fit ti install, the other day Carey said I had to use a blow torch to expand the pully to kake it fit. What the heck. I am ding this install at home, where am i going to get a blow torch.

I am catching hell with this install. Could you please provide some assistance

CW
 

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Color me Gone
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You have to drill the caliper hole out to one inch. It is currently 7/8" on the early models with a stepped down axle shaft but the cfr is a one inch solid shaft.

I can't imagine using a blow torch on a piece of aluminum. I really think there must be some mistake in what was being said. The pulleys are an exact fit, make sure you have no burs on the hub, you might also lightly sand the hub out of the trans if it has corrosion on it. But the pulley needs to be a tight fit, that assures you that it is dead centered. It is important to work it very slow and even or it will be tighter yet.
 

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If you don't feel comfortable drilling your rear caliper. Buy a rear caliper from 2005 and up vrods on ebay with the 1" bore. You could also just by a Performance Machine caliper for the later model years as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
MAx:

Thanks so much for replying, as I could not get any sleep wondering what I had done wrong on the brake caliber. I will enlarge the hole right away.

Both carey and rick advised that I had to heat the pully for 15 minutes to expand it so it can fit over the hub. No one else seemed to have this problem with this install. No one else had a problem with getting the pully to fit over the hub. I cannot seem to catch a break with anything
 

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V Ride said:
If you don't feel comfortable drilling your rear caliper. Buy a rear caliper from 2005 and up vrods on ebay with the 1" bore. You could also just by a Performance Machine caliper for the later model years as well.

I drilled Kevins by hand with a 1 inch bit in my vice. :paper: It was not fun, I would defiantly do it in a drill press. We had all kinds of spacing issues till I called Max and he set us straight as to the order. Which was the two big spacers on the pulley side and the small on the brake side. Dont forget the big spacer in your compensator bowl. What kind of rear wheel do you have? I would absolutely not put a torch to anything aluminum.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Smoothrod:

Intersting, it was your post about assisting Kevin with his install that prompted me to call in Max. So you see some of us actually do perform searches. Well you guys were right, it is a mother of an install.

I have a performance machine wheel that was widened to 240 by Kossman.

Max got me straight on the caliber. That was giving me nitemares. I wonder why Carey Faas did not advise of this to save some of us non-mechanicals the headaches of wondering what did we do wrong.

I think I am misleading everyone. The pully I am having trouble with is the front pully that comes with the CFR swingarm. Not the rear pully. I hope I am calling the small pully by the right name. It is the CFR peice that the belt goes over. Smoothrod, did you have any problem getting this small pully to install. Mine is not fitting
 

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Ah the offset front pulley!! Sometimes getting the front pulley over the flange can be a real bitch. Lube it up and make sure you go nice and slow/even and it will go on. It will be a tight fit when you get it on so don't be surprised. Is it a 28 tooth or 30 tooth offset?
 

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I did my own install using Hogpro's and my front pulley had some rust on it, believe me rust and a burr on either piece will cause a hang up. Its what they call a "SF" or slip fit in the machining industry. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I really appreciate everyone's advice and assistance. I am glad to hear that it is not just me and that what I am doing with this front pully can be a real bitch. Well let me go get me some lube and sandpaper and see if I can make it happen
 

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do not torch aluminum unless you are savy on the metal properties and when it turns to jello
 

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Wow, all this talk of offset pulley has me worried. I pulled the stock one off with a beer in one hand and the other pulling off the pulley. I was going to put the Hogpro 280 kit on tomorrow and was expecting the offset pulley to go on as easy as the other one came off. Guess we'll see...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
V-Ride:

Good luck, because my offset pully came off without a hitch. It was so easy. Damn near impossible to get the new Carey Faas pully on. All carey and his crew keep telling me is to heat the pully up in the oven or use a torch on it to make it expand. I frankly think all of this is ridiculous for a swingarm I paid 1,300 for. If I cannot get it on this Sunday, I am making some urgent calls to carey and asking that they get me a pully that fits

C
 

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V Ride said:
Wow, all this talk of offset pulley has me worried. I pulled the stock one off with a beer in one hand and the other pulling off the pulley. I was going to put the Hogpro 280 kit on tomorrow and was expecting the offset pulley to go on as easy as the other one came off. Guess we'll see...
HogPro will go right on - just keep it going in straight. Make sure you have allen head bolts for the HogPro as the stock hex bolts won't work.
 

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oldfox said:
V-Ride:

Good luck, because my offset pully came off without a hitch. It was so easy. Damn near impossible to get the new Carey Faas pully on. All carey and his crew keep telling me is to heat the pully up in the oven or use a torch on it to make it expand. I frankly think all of this is ridiculous for a swingarm I paid 1,300 for. If I cannot get it on this Sunday, I am making some urgent calls to carey and asking that they get me a pully that fits

C
The pulley has to be an exact fit, the bolts do not align the pulley. The inside edge is what lines the pulley so that it is perfectly centered on the hub. If a pulley is loose at all then the odds are that your going to have a tough time getting it exactly centered. Now if you measure a pulley with a good micrometer you will find the inside edge of it and the outside edge of it are two different sizes. The inside edge tapers down to the outside to get this perfect alignment. So the first thing to make sure of is that your putting the pulley on the right way, that is with the lip on the outside. It is such a close fit that it is also critical that you go exactly even when you slide the pulley on, that means if the pulley isn't perfectly straight that it will bind in the hub. I have an extra pulley and hub here and have put them together several times and measured them. The pulley I have from cary is the exact same size as the factory pulley.
 

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Max said:
You have to drill the caliper hole out to one inch. It is currently 7/8" on the early models with a stepped down axle shaft but the cfr is a one inch solid shaft.

I can't imagine using a blow torch on a piece of aluminum. I really think there must be some mistake in what was being said. The pulleys are an exact fit, make sure you have no burs on the hub, you might also lightly sand the hub out of the trans if it has corrosion on it. But the pulley needs to be a tight fit, that assures you that it is dead centered. It is important to work it very slow and even or it will be tighter yet.
Max,
My welder /Fabricator used a Blow torch to heat up some really think ALUMINIUM Plate before welding it. The thicker the ALM. the more heat it needs to be prepped from welding,but that might be a little different case?:wazzup: As stated above get some Fine sand paper and smooth both surfaces. A drill press will work but use a vice,and wrap it in a towel so you don't mar the surface of the axel.Good Luck.:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Max:

Thanks for stepping in and bringing some technical insight into the matter. Well, now I am really confused and scared to death. I sure hope I don't have to load this bike up on truck and pay harley to install this. That is an expense and headache I don't need. I am going today take everyones suggestion and really try to get this on with sandpaper and lube. I am with you guys, I will not heat this puppy up in an oven and with a torch, even though Carey Faas insist I do this.
 

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oldfox said:
Max:

Thanks for stepping in and bringing some technical insight into the matter. Well, now I am really confused and scared to death. I sure hope I don't have to load this bike up on truck and pay harley to install this. That is an expense and headache I don't need. I am going today take everyones suggestion and really try to get this on with sandpaper and lube. I am with you guys, I will not heat this puppy up in an oven and with a torch, even though Carey Faas insist I do this.
In an oven is fine, you can't melt the aluminum in an oven and we used to use that trick to do fly wheel ring gears years ago. A torch is a no-no because of the amount of heat you can apply quickly. It would help if you had a camera and could take some pictures of your hub and pulley so we could see how far your getting this on.
 

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Max said:
In an oven is fine, you can't melt the aluminum in an oven and we used to use that trick to do fly wheel ring gears years ago. A torch is a no-no because of the amount of heat you can apply quickly. It would help if you had a camera and could take some pictures of your hub and pulley so we could see how far your getting this on.

:them: Pictures would be fantastic that way you can show us exactly were its binding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Smoothrod:

I followed your advice and spent all day Saturday going from one machine shop to the next hoping to find one open on a Sat with No luck. But you beter believe, first thing Monday morning, I will be at a machine shop
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Max and Smoothrod:

I am getting the pully to slide over the flanges. What is confusing me is that in taking off the stock pully, you first loosen the bolts, spin the pully to align with the flanges and then pull it off. So, in putting the new one on, I would think to align the pully with the flanges, slip it over the flanges, and then spin it to align with the holes to bolt on.

However, with the new pully I can only get it over the flanges, but not enough to clear the flanges and spin it to align with the holes for bolting. Maybe this new one does not need to be bolted.

I am making some progress, so please do't give up on me

CW
 
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