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Discussion Starter #1
I had to avoid a pedestrian (and swerving car) last weekend and ended up laying my '09 NRS down on the right side. I walked away with cuts and a separated shoulder...the bike on the other hand absorbed some significant damage.

In assessing the fixes required, I noticed the right side rear brake controls, piston, lever, etc all tore away from the frame rail, causing the bend point to tear open.

I have ordered a new piece 47988-08BK, a new brade pedal, and a new brake piston assembly (as well as a new bar, new grips, and a new forward brake lever -- as all were bent or damaged).

My question is this (and note, I have a service manual, and I have the proper torque figures for the bolts upon putting the new piece back on), but what I cannot figure out is this:

- When removing the existing damaged piece:
1) Do I need to jack the bike up, or remove any weight load?
2) Will the remaining frame compress at all?
3) Do I need to have people to hold the joint points apart while the new piece is applied?

Nothing in the service manual talks about load bearing frame sections, and thankfully this piece is a bolt on, not a weld. It also has no motor mounts, and only runs the rear brake line and some electrical, which has the plastic conduit clips.

SO any help, advice, or prior experience would be greatly appreciated.

THANK YOU!
 

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Just a big ole Doof
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Parked on the kickstand is fine. The frame will not compress or contract in any way. The left / kickstand side is the hard one to replace, ask me how I know.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply.

And I am curious about the left side...what was your experience?
 

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Just a big ole Doof
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Thanks for the reply.

And I am curious about the left side...what was your experience?
I had to cover a workbench with some towels and blankets, lean the bike onto the workbench and then remove the lower left section. The whole process took about 30 minutes, excluding my welder buddy making the repaires to the bent section.
 

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I needed to replace my right side frame piece twice. I encountered difficulty in lining up the four screw holes. Seems like the frame will bend ever so slightly. Just working with it and jockeying things around including just barely starting each screw before tightening got me through it. Maybe a small jack under the engine ever so slightly will make things a little easier.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Great, thanks for the advice. I have a Moto lift, and was planning to elevate the bike during rebuild, and keep the jack slightly behind that piece to move the weight load a little. But knowing to go slowly and work each screw helps a lot!

Scott
 

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Noel
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Put a little never seize on the bolts and run them in & out to help them start correctly while assembling with the frame section in place.

When you go to install the bolts start with one at each end of the frame section to get them started correctly, if you're lucky get the other two started before tightening any of them. That worked with my old 2004 VROD, when I did a couple of engine R&R's.

On my Destroyer the frame appears to have flexed a bit more because of the hard launches and the heavy load racer on her back.

I need to struggle a bit to get the bolts all started, starting with one at each end, then tighten them to PULL the them together, allowing me to start the other two bolts.
 

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I installed mine with the bike sitting on the jiffy stand. Just a little finessing and patience like TaxmanHog says.
 

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Dealing with the same problem here.
Do you think my frame need to be replace or it can be fixed and welded at the foot peg? (see pics)
Thanks!



I had to cover a workbench with some towels and blankets, lean the bike onto the workbench and then remove the lower left section. The whole process took about 30 minutes, excluding my welder buddy making the repaires to the bent section.
 

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Dealing with the same problem here.
Do you think my frame need to be replace or it can be fixed and welded at the foot peg? (see pics)
Thanks!
That one is a simple repair. I have repaired ones far worse than that. Don't waste money replacing it, repair it. It's not a difficult job even if you have to get somebody else to do the welding.
 

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When you took apart the lower left frame, do you had to take some precautions or just unscrew the five bolts? Bike on the side kick or lifted vertically under the motor plate? Thanks.
 

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When you took apart the lower left frame, do you had to take some precautions or just unscrew the five bolts? Bike on the side kick or lifted vertically under the motor plate? Thanks.
Don't think you want to have the bike on the sidestand if you are removing the bolts from the left frame rail, unless you want a V Rod as a hat! The stand is mounted on that rail. Just have a jack under it to hold the bike upright, but not off the floor. The frame is pretty strong so doesn't usually move and you should be able to remove the 4 fixing screws easily with your fingers. You can alter the weight on the jack if necessary to ease any pressure. Remove the one underneath on the radiator support bracket first.
 

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:) I'm fixing the right side! Thanks for the clarification. I was worry about any frame compression to deal with when taken out the bolts. Now It seems a not so complicated work to do it without going to the body shop. I just need to find a good welder.! Thanks!!
 

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:) I'm fixing the right side! Thanks for the clarification. I was worry about any frame compression to deal with when taken out the bolts. Now It seems a not so complicated work to do it without going to the body shop. I just need to find a good welder.! Thanks!!
I would buy a small scissor jack as it will have many uses later on. Frame will want to spread a hair. A scissor jack under the back of engine / frame area will act as a fine adjusting tool to fine tune the compression or spread, When you can spin the bolts with your hand, you found the sweet spot.
Ron
 

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I would buy a small scissor jack as it will have many uses later on. Frame will want to spread a hair. A scissor jack under the back of engine / frame area will act as a fine adjusting tool to fine tune the compression or spread, When you can spin the bolts with your hand, you found the sweet spot.
Ron
Thats key to the whole project.
 

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That one is a simple repair. I have repaired ones far worse than that. Don't waste money replacing it, repair it. It's not a difficult job even if you have to get somebody else to do the welding.
I removed the lower frame including the brake piston. It was very easy actually. Here are some picture with more details of the bend. Do you still thinking it will be an easy fix for a welder? To get the brake pedal socket in the right angle? BTW, I ask the HD dealer for touch up paint for the frame and they told me that it is not available anymore, that I will have to match the color. Any suggestion? Thanks again!


IMG_1202.jpg IMG_1480.jpg IMG_2292.jpg IMG_3103.jpg IMG_5458.jpg IMG_8093.jpg
 

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Getting that weld job right is critical to the performance of the rear brake master cylinder. Any deviation will cause binding etc of the plunger in the master cylinder. If you can I would take the master cylinder to the welding shop along with the frame part.
 

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I didn't use any loctite at all. Just torque the bolts to the recommended value.
 
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