at what rpm are you talking about ??
Fo you know the vrod loves it at 3500 and up rpm and below that it is a jerky dog for the most part

 

It shouldnt be jerky if it is running right. Is it original or does it have aftermarket pipes or air filter? If yes, then has it been tuned for them?
If it has pipes it will need to have PC or something similar to get the fuel map correct or you will have "jerky".

 

jerky cuz he doggin it. get on that thing and ride the ****in shit out of it

 

Welcome to 1130cc.
Details (+ picture) would be helpful.. How low rpm? Properly tuned it should act smooth thru the register..

 

RPMs below 3000. Everything is stock (exhaust and airfilter) Let's say I get to 30 mph in second gear and try to maintain that speed. I keep the throtle still and it starts jerking... If I accelerate or decelerate jerking stops. So the problem is keeping constant speed. I had a Suzuki M50 before and it was a much smoother ride.

 

look at the obvious first
has it done this since buying?
does it have any performance mods/ a tuner?
have you checked oil level/ replaced or cleaned air filter?
does tgrottle cable/ throttle action work smooth in all moves of the hbars or at full throttle movement?
have you pulled the spark plugs for visual?

 

How did you manage to get it tuned? Power Commander?

 

Road tuned using Powervision generally referred to as PV. Primary cause of the rough jerky occasional miss is from being lean in that area. Most noticeable in light load or coasting steady state.
I've not use the Power Commander but it should as well as several other tuning devices be capable of tweaking the fuel in that area to smooth it out.
Ron

 

Will do all that at a local mechanic next week. I will keep you posted. Thanks for your commenta and support brother!

 

Thanks brother! I appreciate the info. I looked up Power Vision online. It looks quite simple to use. If that solves the jerking/misfire problem I will buy one. Did you use one of the preloaded maps on it or did you make your own settings?

 

All base maps are just starting points and need to be autotuned so your bike must have O2 sensors to do this. There is some calibration set up as well. Too much to cover here but just loading a cal it will run like a shit house, actually worse then you have now until some runs are made. Product is simple to use but actual tuning is way more involved. My settings and tables are nothing like the original Stock Improved cal I got from the Dynojet site for v rods by the time I got it to run right.
Based on where these posts are, it might be better to start up a thread in the EFI section where more people look. I found it out of boredom because I seldom read this far down in the forum.
Ron