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Sharks-Parts
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5,659 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
greetings - do any members have suggestions as to a Thunder-Max base map or "altered map" for this set-up
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2010 Night Rod Special. 4,000 miles


Vance & Hines Race Port & Polished Heads - oversized valves.


Screaming Eagle II Cams


Destroyer 58mm Throttle Body


K&N Air Cleaner - Topless Air Box


Stock Header Pipes/Collector


Vance & Hines Widow Slipon Mufflers



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The supplied base map is close & will self adjust to fit the motor specifics. The Tmax is trying to meet the input settings for A/F ratios & does so by the sensors. Unless you want it richer or leaner or have something else you're specifically shooting for, load it & ride.
 

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Sharks-Parts
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5,659 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
the A/F with base map was crazy lean......
 

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K.I.A. '07 AW
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think he's speaking of the newer 550 basemap. I believe you'll need to email James to email it to you or one of the members here can send you a copy.
 

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Sharks-Parts
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yes that is the map I loaded..... the AF is sky high and am wondering if I need to dyno tune it????
 

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Yes that is the map I loaded..... the AF is sky high and am wondering if I need to dyno tune it????
Thanks for the post Sharkey - this is my Rod.

CRaZy lean was before we reset the idle stop screw on the Destroyer TB. AFR's are now pretty close to target, but the map is spotty. Gags WOT from 7-8,000, off idle dropouts and poor response in lower rpm ranges, etc.

Ah, the growing pains of a fresh 550 map on a newly mod'd engine. But it was running considerably better after 100 miles yesterday and running automap this morning after logging +750 points yesterday.

Have a "tentative appointment" at cyclerama in a couple of weeks (TMax friendly tuner) for a perfessional bottom up tune.

OTOH - after only a day out of the stealerships shop, looks like we've sprung a coolant leak at the rear cylinder head gasket - so BACK INTO THE SHOP IT GOES in the morning.

I am SO REGRETTING not just doing this work myself. Might have taken twice as long - but I'm so OCD about my work, everything would have been double/triple checked.

If the stealership tries to pull some "oh you don't have a warranty due to mods" shit, on a motor THEY ASSEMBLED that only has 100 miles on it since leaving the shop - ya'll will be sending me postcards care of Broward County Jail.

Thanks and regards to all...

Rick
 

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Sharks-Parts
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
thanks bro.... enjoy the holiday season and stay healthy....
 

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Update...

Leak "might be" from the thermostat housing/O-Rings into the motor, since it's leaking down both sides. The way the gap between the heads/block are situated, leak runs down the crack between head/block - so it looks like a head gasket - but might in fact not be.

Pulled the service writer outside, asked him what he thought the odds were that V&H screwed the head work up - slim to none. Informed him that whatever the issue was - I had NO INTENTION of having to reach into my wallet when it comes time to pick the bike up.

In other news, I sent James my map & auto-tune points saved before I brought the bike to HD - he sent me back a new map via email yesterday. When I (ever) get the cycle back, I'll write it in and see where it takes me.

Still considering the full dyno tune route, as getting me there quicker than riding autotune mode for 500 miles.

Other mods are coming along nicely.

Penske Night Rod shocks on the way next week (thanks Sharkey). New fork tubes going out next week to lifetimecoatings for a black vapor deposition job. When they come back I'll likely just pull the forks off and take a ride to Ga., to have Traxxion Dynamics install the AK20 kit for the front suspension.

Rear fender body work is done (filled in taillight on a new NR fender), off to the painter for the finish work and paint. Still trying to decide whether to integrate the turn signals into the LED Stop/Run light getting mounted where the license plate currently is, or just replace the bulbs in the stock rear turns with LED's. Cheetah Laser Blinder came in yesterday, rear head will be integrated into taillight. Making a custom mount for the front head to integrate with the Valentine 1 under the fairing (already have a custom bracket on top of the speedo assy for the remote display & speaker for the V1 - though that's going to be redesigned).

So things are moving along in vrod-mod-world quite nicely - assuming HD ever gets the bike to NOT LEAK. (No, it's not just "marking it's territory). What a great lesson on how to turn a $17K bike into a $30K bike (sigh). And I thought I was bad with my Electra Glide.

Regards,

Rick
 

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Rick,

Don't forget to post some pictures of this beast, sounds like you have some cool mods, both performance and visual.
 

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Leak WAS the thermostat gasket (thank God for small favors). Map from James is "somewhat better" still huge stutter issue around 7200. Low RPM/Part Throttle rideability has improved a bunch.

Cam really starts kicking around 5K, missed a gear (2nd to 3rd) last night and the front end came up. Guess I'm going to shortcut the process and talk to cyclerama about an appointment for a tune. So long as it's not just WOT pulls, but a complete base map for part throttle/rpm's too. Once this thing gets at least in the ballpark, autotune "should" take care of the rest. Gonna try and get some miles on tonight and take a look at the learned fuel adjustments in the morning. Fuel mileage is sucking butt right now, but I'm doing mostly "spirited riding", so I'm not expecting the fuel economy to be anything but lousy.

Taillight bucket cut out and plate welded in, dropped off at the paint/body shop for finishing. Tailpiece concept is pretty much worked out. My fabrication wizard is working on that. Gonna wrap the tailpiece in smoked plexi, put the side reflectors over it and light them from the back (I know, we don't need no stinkin reflectors - but on a blacked out bike, I'd like at least something so cars can see it when it's not running. Still undecided whether I'm going to put side-facing amber LED's where the turn signal stalks were shaved. Biggest concern is having enough light in the allocated amount of space to be seen from behind. Actually I'd like to hit the brake lights and have the tailgater behind me seeing red spots for the rest of the day.

Anyway - so things are coming along...

Rock
 

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Rick, I have been talking to the Tmax manufacturer ( they are about 15 miles from me) & think this might help; after about 100 miles or so, hook up to the system & "write" the adjustments that it has made to your laptop. Open the files, look at the spikes and use the cursor to smooth out the low spots manually ( you want smooth curves not peaks & valleys). Now reload the new map to your bike. Ride & repeat until its not making adjustments. The reason you do this is because they set it to have a total tuning variation of 25% so you don't completely screw things up. It may need to go beyond that scale to optimize for your setup & the base map you started with.
 

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Rick, you might want to check with Rusty G. He has a good tuner in West or Centeral Fla. He is suppose to know the in's & out's of the V-Rod
 
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