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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey all,

I have a 2011 VRSCDX Night Rod. I've done a lot of customization to it, and hit a bit of a snag.

(If interested, check out my build thread for more of a backstory: Here's the link)

During the build, I had my front forks completely disassembled. I re-assembled them, and used what I assume are some sort of crush-gasket type washers that the Harley dealer gave me.

Now, my front left fork is leaking fork oil. Overnight, a 6 inch puddle will form, so it's relatively serious. It's definitely fork oil - not brake fluid or anything from the caliper.

So - any ideas on what I should look for? A quick search of the forums didn't really give me any ideas, but I figured someone here might have had the same problem.

I just wanted to ask around before I go through the hassle of pulling that fork back off again.

This is the microfiche for the right side, but I wanted to show you the washer I was talking about - and the point of the leak.


Thanks all,

Jon
 

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...I re-assembled them, and used what I assume are some sort of crush-gasket type washers that the Harley dealer gave me.

Now, my front left fork is leaking fork oil. ....
It's likely the seat pipe (also called a damper rod and conveniently cropped from the image you show) didn't tighten correctly and crush the sealing washer (or there's debris under the seat pipe inside the fork or under the crush washer).

If the seat pipe spins when installing the screw it won't seal. The spring and fork cap should be installed before final torque (106 to 159 in•lbs = 12 to 18 Nm) is applied to the seat pipe screw. (The fork spring will apply a clamping force and hold the seat pipe from turning.) You can feel when the seat pipe grabs and crushes the sealing washer. It's possible this can be fixed without fork disassembly unless there's debris under the seat pipe. You should at least remove the seat pipe screw and check the crush washer for damage and perhaps replace with a new one. You should also remove the fork cap and recheck fork oil volume (best done with fork removed from the triple clamp.
 

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:them: I agree, the only thing that can leak is the bolt that holds the damping rod assembly. Not the one you have marked though, that is the clamp bolt and lock washer.

Proper sealing requires the mating surfaces to be clean, flat and in good condition. But if something has caused the bolt to not completly tighten/seat that could be the issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
My mistake. You're absolutely right. I did mark the wrong screw - also, I think Harley gave me a regular lock washer - not a crush washer. It's because of the omission in the drawing that stever975 mentioned. That's what they pointed to when they sold me the part. (They are Japanese; I live in Okinawa). So, there's that...

Since I sandblasted and powdercoated everything, it's possible that my PC guy didn't clean that portion well enough. It's likely debris causing the leak.

I'll disassemble, clean it out, and torque it all up this week. It shouldn't take long at all. Hopefully, I can find a replacement sealing washer on island. I don't want to buy a whole rebuild kit...

Thanks all. I'll update to "Solved" after I confirm.
 

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My mistake. You're absolutely right. I did mark the wrong screw - also, I think Harley gave me a regular lock washer - not a crush washer. It's because of the omission in the drawing that stever975 mentioned. That's what they pointed to when they sold me the part. (They are Japanese; I live in Okinawa). So, there's that...

Since I sandblasted and powdercoated everything, it's possible that my PC guy didn't clean that portion well enough. It's likely debris causing the leak.

I'll disassemble, clean it out, and torque it all up this week. It shouldn't take long at all. Hopefully, I can find a replacement sealing washer on island. I don't want to buy a whole rebuild kit...

Thanks all. I'll update to "Solved" after I confirm.
After media blasting clean everything more than you think it needs cleaning. Then clean it again.
I am having a gearbox on a BMW rebuilt because we bead blasted the cases before assembling it last year. Even though the case was hot tanked and then washed in detergent and water before reassembly, some beads remained hidden in a recess somewhere. The beads came loose and roughed up some bearings and left obvious damage to the bearing seats inside the case. I noticed bearing noise at idle with the clutch disengaged. $800 down the toilet on that one.
 
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