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Zijspan

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
The new Screaming Eagle (S.E.) air filter is apparently a DRY filter, and not the same as the earlier version which was a K&N (oiled) filter with an S.E. part number on the box. This was previously described by SkiRod in another thread. I became worried that I may not be able to get the real K&N for my demanding racing application. I sent an email to K&N asking about the availability of their filter for the V-Rod. I received NO response. Their web site show no available air filter for the V-Rod. There has been speculation that K&N may not be able to sell a V-Rod filter until a possible contract issue with H-D expires. That seems a reasonable assumption, but how long do we have to wait? I need a bunch of the K&N filters very soon. So, I went searching for a dealer that had the real K&N in stock. I found a dealer, and bought their complete stock of 3 filters. Nobody can get the real K&N from that dealer anymore (S.B./Carpinteria) since I cleaned them out. My though is that anyone thinking of upgrading to a K&N may want to go get one NOW, before the worldwide stock is depleted. If you open the box, and you see BLUE, you got the new one which isn't a K&N. The part numbers are slightly different.

Original S.E. filter (K&N, pink color) part number: 29793-02
New S.E. filter (dry, blue color) part number: 29793-02A
List price is $64.95
 
Over a year ago I purchased a K&N filter (it was sealed in a plastic wrapper that said K&N on it, no box, no mentioning of HD) from Joe @ Rockingham Cycle, (603) 898-0067. Check him out, maybe he still has some or knows where to get them. Also, I believe Ernie @ BPP said the filters he sells are not the new HD kind.
 
I wouldn't get overly wrapped up in getting a "real" K&N. They probably make the screaming eagle filter anyway. The only reason filters are oiled is to trap more particles. It doesn't effect flow. Just put K&N filter oil on the S.E. and call it a day.
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
badluck1 said:
I wouldn't get overly wrapped up in getting a "real" K&N. They probably make the screaming eagle filter anyway. The only reason filters are oiled is to trap more particles. It doesn't effect flow. Just put K&N filter oil on the S.E. and call it a day.
Actually, there are HUGE differences in filter designs. If there was no difference, I'd stick with the stock H-D filter for way less money. According to SkiRod, the newer S.E. filter has instructions that say "DO NOT OIL". There must be a reason for that, like maybe oil degrades the materials, affecting particle filtering or flow characteristics. Given the effort and expense of dyno tuning I've gone though, I don't want to put in a filter that changes my tuning. Others who have paid pig money for dyno time using the original S.E. K&N filter may feel the same, and want an identical filter just like me.

If someone can show that the new S.E. filter is really the same K&N as the old one, only using a bit of blue in the manufacturing, then I'll change my position. But I haven't seen that yet. And the "NO OIL" thing worries me a bit. Also, I would want to see dyno results comparing the performance of the two filters. Rather than me paying a few hundred bucks for that dyno time, with the risk of bad results, I'm sticking with what is proven and known.

In my application, oil is mandatory in the filter. I can not afford to destroy my motor experimenting with the new filter with and without oil. Though some may be willing to do this experimenting with their bike, I'm sure there are many others that are not. It is partly for those people that I brought up this subject.

If someone knows more about the difference between the new and old S.E. filters, I hope you'll educate us!
 
After talking to my dealer , it is my understanding, that the moco changed to a washable dry filter to cut down on the oil leaking out of the air box. I have one of the new filters and 1500 miles on it. Although the new SE filter is washable it IMHO clearly is not the quality an oiled K & N Filter is. Z; your right, the real deal K & Ns are going to become harder and harder to find. Also the new SE filter cannot be blown out with air. It states that on the label, washable and air dry only, " Do Not USE Compressed AIR" Donald
 
OK VROD said:
Also the new SE filter cannot be blown out with air. It states that on the label, washable and air dry only, " Do Not USE Compressed AIR" Donald
It is my understanding that you are not to use compressed air on the K&N either.
 
If you can find someone with a flow bench that would give you the specs on both.

BTW, There's quite a few "I hate K&N" and "K&N filters let dirt through" threads on the net. I run them on everything I own but some of these reported tests are disturbing.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
I've run K&N's on about every bike I've owned since the 70's , street , dirt , even snowmobiles ,, never had a filter related failure ,, the most likely cause of a failure is probably not using the appropriate oil , or none at all ,,, ZI have you asked K&N about a pre-filter for your toy ?
 
Sorry if I wasn't clear, I didn't mean there was no difference in flow of all filters. I was talking about K&N vs S.E. As Tom confirmed on the dyno, no difference. Like I was saying, I'll bet K&N makes the Screaming Eagle filters in the same manner that Vance & Hines makes Screaming Eagle exhaust.
 
Sorry for the dumb question, but not sure what you're getting at with 2 or 3 filters stacked up - do you mean 2 or 3 filters on top of each other? If so, how would you secure them?

From what I've heard the optimal filter should have a height of 1/4 to 1/5 of the diameter. Based on this you're right that a stock filter should give you better results then individual cone filters. However I don't know if stacking them would give you any benefits.

Now, with this all said, I have ordered billet velocity stacks and cone filters (two sets - foam and XStream K&N to see which will work better) because I like this look and think it will perform fairly well.
 
JackInZoar said:
I'm talking stock filters (or better replacements) extend the studs same as you did on your car 20 years ago ,, use windshield butyl to seal one to the next
To Tall would Not fit under the Skin! :2cents:
 
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