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124 Posts
Anyone use them? Are they any good or just junk? was looking at the shorter stroker version so that I can use my stock pistons.
K 1 connecting rods
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well once again I guess I shold have put S.E.II or topless in the title and Id have at least a dozen responses...
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I've found a new set of the shorter stroker rods do cheap
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Ive searched the hell out of this forum for any mention of them and I cant find anything bad about them. As a matter of fact I think that Karzza was running them (read every bit of his turbo V-rod build...WOW!) and im guessing he made more power than anyone? he didn't mention any issues. Either way, an outfit on Ebay is closing them out at $89 a set OBO if anyone is interested. I may buy another set myself.
They are a division of Wiseco...but the description screams made in China. This is not an area of an engine build to cheap out on (read "gamble").
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On Yellowbullet Forum ( drag racers) there were quite a few guys who had problems with them, if I remember correctly. I paid extra to get Carillos.
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As always, ya get what ya pay for. Other than Stage 1 which is the cheapest Hp per $, followed by a Turbo or Supercharger without internal engine upgrades and everything else after that is about $ 200 a Hp., best I can figure, for ROBUST & RELIABLE power. Cheap out and yea, you may end up with some nice twisted metal ashtrays, if that's what you want - but it won't be cheap to clean up the mess.
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124 Posts
Thank you Karrza, I figured if they worked for you that means they should be plenty strong for a 1357cc stroker.
It's your money, I just don't understand the desire to save a couple hundred dollars on so so (and likely Chinese made) connecting rods. The costs and time to split the case are way more than that.
Do it right do it once.
Karrza can rebuild these in his sleep. Can you?
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1,411 Posts
Yes I can, but don’t want to
.Ps. did rebuild my Busa engine three times in two months. A workshop manual is no longer needed.
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2,910 Posts
According to the K1 propaganda on ebay sales info from (of all places) ATV Unlimited 158478 they are designed by an in house USA ? engineering team for high stress racing, finished in USA bores to +-.0001 and weight +-1 gram per end, with ARP2000 Bolts.
Sounds pretty good, but only $ 90 for two ? Made in China ? Too good to be true ? Maybe OK for drag racing, limited mileage street use ? Anyone use these with the stock pistons Roddy's talking about ? High street mileage durability results ?
In other news Trask TM-2015 Revo crank girdles 1/2 price on e bay OEM Cycles 332446 e bay # 332043610913 $ 190.38 just bought one, 3 available - F.Y.I.
Sounds pretty good, but only $ 90 for two ? Made in China ? Too good to be true ? Maybe OK for drag racing, limited mileage street use ? Anyone use these with the stock pistons Roddy's talking about ? High street mileage durability results ?
In other news Trask TM-2015 Revo crank girdles 1/2 price on e bay OEM Cycles 332446 e bay # 332043610913 $ 190.38 just bought one, 3 available - F.Y.I.
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124 Posts
Drag racing is pretty much all Im planning with this build, other than an occasional trip up and down the main drag. when I first made this post I had searched the forum and found virtually nothing on them. In subsequent searches for other information I found that several others were using them with the only issue reported being by Karzza. The issue that he had was the small end bushing distorting (flattening out?). the difference between his turbo and my N/A stroker motor will be well over 100hp. I get what you guys are saying about saving a few bucks and ill consider it, but other than Karzza, who has had no major issues with his its hard to rule them out, especially since I can use the stock pistons. I was told that the compression with the stock
pistons and additional stroke should be a little over 12 to one. this is a VERY low mileage 1250 motor and I figured I could weigh the rods, pistons, rings etc. send the crank to falicon have it welded, turned and balanced and just put it all back together. There is no evidence of blowby, leakdown was excellent so the way I see it I just need bearings, gaskets, and some ARP studs and im in business as far as the bottom end of the engine goes. Then I can put the real money into the transmission, clutch basket, and cylinder heads. Oh, and tuning. The other option would be that I could use the stock rods and aftermarket pistons ($500+) the up side I can go 14 to 1 compression, the downside is several hundred $ more and ive got to seat a new set of rings in. oh, and apparently a lot more grinding on the cases for the 1/4" inch increased stroke.
pistons and additional stroke should be a little over 12 to one. this is a VERY low mileage 1250 motor and I figured I could weigh the rods, pistons, rings etc. send the crank to falicon have it welded, turned and balanced and just put it all back together. There is no evidence of blowby, leakdown was excellent so the way I see it I just need bearings, gaskets, and some ARP studs and im in business as far as the bottom end of the engine goes. Then I can put the real money into the transmission, clutch basket, and cylinder heads. Oh, and tuning. The other option would be that I could use the stock rods and aftermarket pistons ($500+) the up side I can go 14 to 1 compression, the downside is several hundred $ more and ive got to seat a new set of rings in. oh, and apparently a lot more grinding on the cases for the 1/4" inch increased stroke.
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Bore or Stroke ?
Another option - I spoke to CP before and they will build a custom piston for the stock bore so you could go 12-1, 13-1 or 14-1 for about $ 800. One problem is proper honing of the stock liners to the proper final hone finish they recommend for their chrome rings. So the next move is to bore the case, go for new 4.250 Advanced Sleeve liners and 12-1 or 14-1 CP Pistons. When I called Advanced they referred me to Ray Vreeland at Vreelands H-D when I asked about the finish hone. I believe Ray specifies the hone or finish hones the liners himself for the chrome rings when you buy the kit from him. I don't like weld up cranks but for drags it's probably OK so I guess the real question is what's the final verdict - how much more power do you get from a weld up 1/8 or 1/4 stroker using a stock piston ( if you can ) vs boring the case to 4.250 1320cc and using the stock bottom end with CP racing pistons ? Which is more reliable ? I lean more towards the case bore than the weld up but that's me thinking street reliability. What you think Roddy ? With that low mileage bottom end it would probably handle the 1320 top end fine. Opinions, comments from the Revo Guru's here would be real helpful - :blahblah:
Another option - I spoke to CP before and they will build a custom piston for the stock bore so you could go 12-1, 13-1 or 14-1 for about $ 800. One problem is proper honing of the stock liners to the proper final hone finish they recommend for their chrome rings. So the next move is to bore the case, go for new 4.250 Advanced Sleeve liners and 12-1 or 14-1 CP Pistons. When I called Advanced they referred me to Ray Vreeland at Vreelands H-D when I asked about the finish hone. I believe Ray specifies the hone or finish hones the liners himself for the chrome rings when you buy the kit from him. I don't like weld up cranks but for drags it's probably OK so I guess the real question is what's the final verdict - how much more power do you get from a weld up 1/8 or 1/4 stroker using a stock piston ( if you can ) vs boring the case to 4.250 1320cc and using the stock bottom end with CP racing pistons ? Which is more reliable ? I lean more towards the case bore than the weld up but that's me thinking street reliability. What you think Roddy ? With that low mileage bottom end it would probably handle the 1320 top end fine. Opinions, comments from the Revo Guru's here would be real helpful - :blahblah:
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On one hand it almost seems a shame to take a near mint 1250 crankshaft and send it to get welded up and re machined, but there are several reasons im going to stick to the 1/4 stroke plan. #1 Ill be honest,cost.. I can do it for about half as much, or less than what it will cost to do a stroker. Or MUCH less if I stick to the stock piston K-1 rod plan. #2 I cant help but think Harley Davidson had a pretty good reason for adding to the stroke rather than increasing the bore when they designed the destroyer. It really would be interesting to see the actual results of a back to back dyno comparison of the two, id put my money on the stroker due to the extra 17cc that it has over the big bore engine. (1/4" stroke vs. 4.25 bore) 1357 vs. 1340 cc.
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Bring $, it really helps.
I've always said the Revo needed more stroke. it's a great high rpm engine but would probably have had more guys buy 'em if they pulled harder on the bottom. Having said that for a drag engine you're probably right going with the weld-up, maybe. For a street engine I would go the big bore and a set of CNC high flow valve heads and leave the beautiful crank and rods alone. To me that 4.134 or 4.250 bore and stock rods with custom 12-1 CP pistons would work fine in the 1/4 and kick A$$ on the high rpm output. I think the stroker would pull better for the street rideability but when it's pin it and bang off the rev limiter drag racing I'm not sure what you really gain and remember the Destroyer is only a 4.164 bore with stroke up on stock 4.134 1250 but not a 4.250 max Revo bore. Also stroke needs less on head work, bore needs less on crank work, you just have to pick your poison - with an engine that fresh I'd just bore it to 4.250, leave all else alone and run the crap out of it - but that's just me not wanting to weld on a new 1250 crank, and thinking street mileage. Marine cranks are not cheap, but that's the best way to do a stroker, drag or street. Bring $, it really helps, as always. So the real unanswered question here is can you really use stock pistons with a stroker crank ? We got no confirmation, and I'm not sure you would gain much if anything with K1 rods enabling the use of stock pistons, which kind of negate the effects of the increased stroke ?.:blahblah:
I've always said the Revo needed more stroke. it's a great high rpm engine but would probably have had more guys buy 'em if they pulled harder on the bottom. Having said that for a drag engine you're probably right going with the weld-up, maybe. For a street engine I would go the big bore and a set of CNC high flow valve heads and leave the beautiful crank and rods alone. To me that 4.134 or 4.250 bore and stock rods with custom 12-1 CP pistons would work fine in the 1/4 and kick A$$ on the high rpm output. I think the stroker would pull better for the street rideability but when it's pin it and bang off the rev limiter drag racing I'm not sure what you really gain and remember the Destroyer is only a 4.164 bore with stroke up on stock 4.134 1250 but not a 4.250 max Revo bore. Also stroke needs less on head work, bore needs less on crank work, you just have to pick your poison - with an engine that fresh I'd just bore it to 4.250, leave all else alone and run the crap out of it - but that's just me not wanting to weld on a new 1250 crank, and thinking street mileage. Marine cranks are not cheap, but that's the best way to do a stroker, drag or street. Bring $, it really helps, as always. So the real unanswered question here is can you really use stock pistons with a stroker crank ? We got no confirmation, and I'm not sure you would gain much if anything with K1 rods enabling the use of stock pistons, which kind of negate the effects of the increased stroke ?.:blahblah:
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124 Posts
There are a few here apparently who have run the 1/4" stroke crank with 1/8" shorter rods. sounds like it works pretty well actually. so that's why im so back and forth on the stock piston/short rod Vs. stock rod CP piston idea. im already completely sold on the 1/4" stroker idea. this motor, for me is more or less a practice run. Later I plan on a big bore stroker 14whatever cc with all premium parts.
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237 Posts
Streetrodracer, You got me with the marine crank ?%$! what the heck is that? Jet ski
V-ROD maybe just kidding interested in who makes them.
Now on topic I will say that the shorter rod will reduce reciprocating mass always a plus if you can make everything fit. Just my 2 cents
Good luck with your build Roddy
V-ROD maybe just kidding interested in who makes them.
Now on topic I will say that the shorter rod will reduce reciprocating mass always a plus if you can make everything fit. Just my 2 cents
Good luck with your build Roddy
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