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Discussion Starter #61
I'm going to need to look into that wheel chock. I believe the SKU is AG-ATX20-RS for the battery.
Yea, we're talking the same one then. I misquoted the part number. This is the one AG calls out for our bikes:

 

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Yes. That's the one. I didn't realize I had a weak battery problem until it finally died (my stocker). When I installed the AG, The bike turned over immediately, which it had never done with the stocker.
 

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Discussion Starter #63
Yes. That's the one. I didn't realize I had a weak battery problem until it finally died (my stocker). When I installed the AG, The bike turned over immediately, which it had never done with the stocker.
I have a feeling I'll be in the same boat. I've been having some weird starting issues to the point where the bike wouldn't power on at all. Come to find out I had a loose negative battery terminal. Tightened that down and put the battery on the tender and it fires right up now. I have a smaller terminal hooked up to the negative battery post which I'm thinking may be part of the battery tender. Not 100% sure.

One thing I definitely want to do is go over the grounds on this bike. I need to do some research to find out where they all are. I know improper grounding can cause some weird issues so want to check these.

My Power Vision also arrived yesterday from Fuel Moto. Really looking forward to get the bike flashed with the map FM provided. They were by far the cheapest and they included a nice handle bar mount for the unit (not that I'll even be using it).
 

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I recently sold the Power Commander V and ordered up a Power Vision from Fuel Moto. I just really fell in love with the idea of the PV being able to truly flash the ECU with a different tune vs. always having to have the PCV on the bike itself.

What is everyone's thoughts on the Power Commander Autotune vs the Target Tune? I like that the Target tune is a full closed loop system all the time. Anyone have any experience either way?

I'm also now in the market for a battery. I had a Shorai on my last R1 that I loved, but seems like quite a few folks on here have had issues. Any other brands people really like?
Both can adjust full time on the fly. Thing is , once it's dialed in, there's no reason to keep the autotune on the bike if you want to get rid of all that wiring mess both have as well as less then stellar design of wiring for long term reliability. Recently I've been playing with PCV and AT on a boost bike. It has advantages over the TT from a tuners standpoint, not just the fact it can tune boost. Many pro tuners will use either to dial in areas beyond NB sensors but when done a final tune is done in the low end and cruise ranges, blend the two into one cal and pull the WB off. Some pipes, might as well just go open loop when done as there's too much reversion in the low and cruise areas to have any success with NB sensors.
I have a feeling I'll be in the same boat. I've been having some weird starting issues to the point where the bike wouldn't power on at all. Come to find out I had a loose negative battery terminal. Tightened that down and put the battery on the tender and it fires right up now. I have a smaller terminal hooked up to the negative battery post which I'm thinking may be part of the battery tender. Not 100% sure.

One thing I definitely want to do is go over the grounds on this bike. I need to do some research to find out where they all are. I know improper grounding can cause some weird issues so want to check these.

My Power Vision also arrived yesterday from Fuel Moto. Really looking forward to get the bike flashed with the map FM provided. They were by far the cheapest and they included a nice handle bar mount for the unit (not that I'll even be using it).
Did you get the Target Tune also and a TT enabled cal? The standard 12mm sensors won't work worth shit in this pipe unless some serious port trimming is done. Not just the reducer, I might add and even then the best I can get is 1/4" probe protrusion into the pipe. With the WB sensors, ports are fine as is.
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #65
Both can adjust full time on the fly. Thing is , once it's dialed in, there's no reason to keep the autotune on the bike if you want to get rid of all that wiring mess both have as well as less then stellar design of wiring for long term reliability. Recently I've been playing with PCV and AT on a boost bike. It has advantages over the TT from a tuners standpoint, not just the fact it can tune boost. Many pro tuners will use either to dial in areas beyond NB sensors but when done a final tune is done in the low end and cruise ranges, blend the two into one cal and pull the WB off. Some pipes, might as well just go open loop when done as there's too much reversion in the low and cruise areas to have any success with NB sensors.

Did you get the Target Tune also and a TT enabled cal? The standard 12mm sensors won't work worth shit in this pipe unless some serious port trimming is done. Not just the reducer, I might add and even then the best I can get is 1/4" probe protrusion into the pipe. With the WB sensors, ports are fine as is.
Ron
Not yet. Right now I only have the PV with the tune already loaded onto it from Fuel Moto. Eventually I'll add the AT or TT, but for right now I'm just going to load up their tune. My next power mod will more than likely be the Fitz cams so once I get those I'll get the AT or TT and really get a tune dialed in with those. Don't both AT and TT come with wideband sensors? Wouldn't that eliminate any problems with the WB's being far enough into the exhaust flow? To me the AT and TT are pointless without the WB's sensors Dynojet sells with each kit.

I have to say I am super happy with Fuel Moto's customer service and add ons. They were by far the cheapest on the PV and they loaded up a tune to my mods on the PV already. They also included a nice handle bar mount.
 

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Not yet. Right now I only have the PV with the tune already loaded onto it from Fuel Moto. Eventually I'll add the AT or TT, but for right now I'm just going to load up their tune. My next power mod will more than likely be the Fitz cams so once I get those I'll get the AT or TT and really get a tune dialed in with those. Don't both AT and TT come with wideband sensors? Wouldn't that eliminate any problems with the WB's being far enough into the exhaust flow? To me the AT and TT are pointless without the WB's sensors Dynojet sells with each kit.

I have to say I am super happy with Fuel Moto's customer service and add ons. They were by far the cheapest on the PV and they loaded up a tune to my mods on the PV already. They also included a nice handle bar mount.
Yes the Pro and TT use the WB sensors. The PV1 you can will autotune using the stock sensors but limited range of afr with NB sensors. Pro or TT is the best option. Sometimes I think FM is more useful then DJ itself if any issues arise.
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #67
Yes the Pro and TT use the WB sensors. The PV1 you can will autotune using the stock sensors but limited range of afr with NB sensors. Pro or TT is the best option. Sometimes I think FM is more useful then DJ itself if any issues arise.
Ron
Good to know. I only plan on running the WB's. Right now I don't even have the O2's on the bike. Just have the factory plugs capped off.
 

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Discussion Starter #68
A couple updates!

I've got a few goodies arriving this week.
  • Altered State Design Psycho 1.75" forward controls with pro axles and Arlen Ness pegs should be here today. I bought them "new", but second hand. If anyone has instructions for these are a link to install controls I would appreciate it! I went for a longer ride last week on the highway and I really felt my legs being pushed outward wearing my hip muscles out really quickly. I'm 5' 11" so I think the small bit of extra reach should really help out in the comfort department. Not to mention they look killer and will get rid of that little bit of silver on the stock controls.
  • Target Tune from Fuel Moto. No idea when it will be here, but when I bought my PV from them it showed up in literally 1-2 days. Their website is terrible for tracking info, however. I'm excited to get this on the bike using @Daze513 tune he sent me.
  • Quadlock phone mount should be here Saturday. I know, I know... I plan on attending the Fitzgerald Motorsports V-Rod rally here at the end of June and it's a bit of a ride from where I live so I do need GPS.
I believe I've tracked my "battery" and weird code issue down to continued loosening battery cables. It is driving my bonkers. My theory is that the Akra exhaust is mounted to the frame of the bike directly which is causing quite a bit more vibration than the stock exhaust did. I can really feel the vibration in 5th gear at low RPM while under somewhat heavy throttle.

I am also battling a leaky left front fork seal. I bought the seal mate tool and gave that a try this week, but I'm not sure it solved my issue. I went for an hour ride yesterday as we have had PERFECT weather here in Ohio the past few days. Unfortunately when I got back home I noticed more oil had leaked out onto the stanchion. I'm going to give the seal mate one more try, but I'm thinking it may be looking like a fork rebuild.

Also removed the front reflectors off the forks. It's amazing how such a small change can make such a difference. Took me about 5 mins per side using a heat gun to loosen up the adhesive holding them on.

604433
 

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A couple updates!

I've got a few goodies arriving this week.
  • Altered State Design Psycho 1.75" forward controls with pro axles and Arlen Ness pegs should be here today. I bought them "new", but second hand. If anyone has instructions for these are a link to install controls I would appreciate it! I went for a longer ride last week on the highway and I really felt my legs being pushed outward wearing my hip muscles out really quickly. I'm 5' 11" so I think the small bit of extra reach should really help out in the comfort department. Not to mention they look killer and will get rid of that little bit of silver on the stock controls.
  • Target Tune from Fuel Moto. No idea when it will be here, but when I bought my PV from them it showed up in literally 1-2 days. Their website is terrible for tracking info, however. I'm excited to get this on the bike using @Daze513 tune he sent me.
  • Quadlock phone mount should be here Saturday. I know, I know... I plan on attending the Fitzgerald Motorsports V-Rod rally here at the end of June and it's a bit of a ride from where I live so I do need GPS.
I believe I've tracked my "battery" and weird code issue down to continued loosening battery cables. It is driving my bonkers. My theory is that the Akra exhaust is mounted to the frame of the bike directly which is causing quite a bit more vibration than the stock exhaust did. I can really feel the vibration in 5th gear at low RPM while under somewhat heavy throttle.

I am also battling a leaky left front fork seal. I bought the seal mate tool and gave that a try this week, but I'm not sure it solved my issue. I went for an hour ride yesterday as we have had PERFECT weather here in Ohio the past few days. Unfortunately when I got back home I noticed more oil had leaked out onto the stanchion. I'm going to give the seal mate one more try, but I'm thinking it may be looking like a fork rebuild.

Also removed the front reflectors off the forks. It's amazing how such a small change can make such a difference. Took me about 5 mins per side using a heat gun to loosen up the adhesive holding them on.

View attachment 604433
Early on I had slight leaking on my new bike. Not always just certain bumps like railway tracks at slow speeds would produce the oil on the tube. I changed the seal and same thing. I then miked the tube. It was a hair undersize on the chrome grind. Had to replace the tube. If you have mikes, compare the leaker to the other fork for dia. Might save you from aggravation later. If the same within .0002 just re-seal it. If more, I can supply the lower limit dia that the seals can work. Hopefully is just bug guts or a dirt particle chewed the lip up. This dirt can also come from inside the fork assembly and might have been there from new. If you have marks on the tube do not just try and polish that area only. The whole dia needs to be done or you create a low spot where the seal won't work. Too much overall polishing and you run the risk of undersizing the tube. That's where knowing the lower dia limit helps.
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #70
Early on I had slight leaking on my new bike. Not always just certain bumps like railway tracks at slow speeds would produce the oil on the tube. I changed the seal and same thing. I then miked the tube. It was a hair undersize on the chrome grind. Had to replace the tube. If you have mikes, compare the leaker to the other fork for dia. Might save you from aggravation later. If the same within .0002 just re-seal it. If more, I can supply the lower limit dia that the seals can work. Hopefully is just bug guts or a dirt particle chewed the lip up. This dirt can also come from inside the fork assembly and might have been there from new. If you have marks on the tube do not just try and polish that area only. The whole dia needs to be done or you create a low spot where the seal won't work. Too much overall polishing and you run the risk of undersizing the tube. That's where knowing the lower dia limit helps.
Ron
All I have is a caliper. Measured both sides and both come in at almost exactly 44mm. I'm not questioning you, but .0002 seems way extreme for a rubber seal to seat up against. I'll have to bust of my service manual and see what it says on this topic.

Left stanchion:

604434


Right stanchion:
604435
 

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All I have is a caliper. Measured both sides and both come in at almost exactly 44mm. I'm not questioning you, but .0002 seems way extreme for a rubber seal to seat up against. I'll have to bust of my service manual and see what it says on this topic.

Left stanchion:

View attachment 604434

Right stanchion:
View attachment 604435
I meant .0002 deviation between the two on a new set, and you'd be amazed at how much effect this has on how the tube moves through the seal especially at the upper end of the tolerance. As for calipers, only ballpark stuff for measuring as you likely know. The actual size of the tubes are roughly 42.93 ish mm and they call them 43mm in size. My mikes are in thousands, so the nominal size should be 1.691" or 42.9514mm. I would suspect the grind tolerance new would be in he order of .0002. Pretty sure even the slobs at HD can stay within that. LOL. If you cannot detect any meaningful difference between the two, probably fine but if the grinds are at the low end of tolerance to start with, as little as .0005 below that can cause sealing issues.
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #72
These beauties arrived yesterday. I am extremely happy with the design, fit and finish of these controls. I spoke with Keith Mcelhinney yesterday and I am going to do a review and install video of these. They look fairly straight forward although he did send me over some written instructions for the install. I was pleased to know that he mentioned these are also his personal favorite controls he makes. Probably because he is similar in size to me LOL. It is definitely going to be interesting to see how the heel shifter is. I've got some seat time on a 2011 Street Glide with a heel shifter, but the V-Rod is a totally different animal.

604454
 

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These beauties arrived yesterday. I am extremely happy with the design, fit and finish of these controls. I spoke with Keith Mcelhinney yesterday and I am going to do a review and install video of these. They look fairly straight forward although he did send me over some written instructions for the install. I was pleased to know that he mentioned these are also his personal favorite controls he makes. Probably because he is similar in size to me LOL. It is definitely going to be interesting to see how the heel shifter is. I've got some seat time on a 2011 Street Glide with a heel shifter, but the V-Rod is a totally different animal.

View attachment 604454
Some like the heal shifter , some don't . I'm the latter.
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #74
Got the controls installed over the weekend. I'm really, really happy with the quality of these controls. I'm going to take the bike out for a ride here on lunch to see how they feel, but so far I am very impressed. I ran into a couple snags and Keith was there to respond to my questions immediately. I was a bit confused on the orientation of the axles as you can install them 180* backwards. But given that these are 1.75" extended controls the orientation of both sides needs to be the forward most orientation. I was also having some issues with the Arlen Ness heel pegs when using their washers. They didn't take up enough of the slack when mounted which made them rock back and forth when they were installed. I removed the Arlen Ness washers and went back to the "curved" Harley Davidson washers and everything is working great now.

The orientation in the pics below is actually incorrect. I took them back off and rotated the axle 180* forward, but this gives an overall picture:

604503

604504
 

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Discussion Starter #75
I am going to give this Seal Mate tool one more try today, but as of right now it is not looking good. I called two local Harley dealerships and I've been quoted about $300 per side. I really hate to do just one, but I really hate to spend $600 on a seal replacement... I need to do some more research on this today to see exactly what is involved and what is needed to do the left side at home. I do have a Factory Service Manual, but when I did a quick read over it a few weeks back it seemed like a specialty tool heavy job. It's to the point now where i have fluid on my wheel chock when I leave the bike overnight.
 

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I am going to give this Seal Mate tool one more try today, but as of right now it is not looking good. I called two local Harley dealerships and I've been quoted about $300 per side. I really hate to do just one, but I really hate to spend $600 on a seal replacement... I need to do some more research on this today to see exactly what is involved and what is needed to do the left side at home. I do have a Factory Service Manual, but when I did a quick read over it a few weeks back it seemed like a specialty tool heavy job. It's to the point now where i have fluid on my wheel chock when I leave the bike overnight.
That's a stupid price. At most 1 hour per, if the forks are off. Can you get a better deal if you just take the forks in only? With all the correct tools, quite a bit less then an hour to do one , but I'm sure deal has a minimum 1 hour fee.
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #77
That's a stupid price. At most 1 hour per, if the forks are off. Can you get a better deal if you just take the forks in only? With all the correct tools, quite a bit less then an hour to do one , but I'm sure deal has a minimum 1 hour fee.
Ron
Completely agree. After reading through the other thread and pricing out the parts I went up to HD today and ordered two seal kits, 4 pints of Type E fluid and a couple other small things I needed. I'm going to give it a shot myself as the left side is apparently the easy side and I already have a FSM. Really appreciate all of your help Ron. You are a wealth of knowledge.

Ordering the parts also gave me a chance to get a ride in on the bike. Before I left I gave the sale mate a 3rd try in hopes that maybe I got something I missed. I really tried to focus on keeping the tool completely perpendicular to the seal itself and drag it down and out very carefully like their instructional video shows. Not sure if it worked, but time will tell.

It also gave me the chance to get some time on the new controls. There is definitely a very noticeable forward placement and for me personally is a nice change. I got to go out on some highways and I now have literally zero groin area muscle soreness like I normally do. A longer ride will for sure tell me more, but so far I'm loving it. The heel shifter is definitely going to take some time to get used to. I'm not really a big fan right now as it really gets in the way of upshifts on the front peg if you wanted to go that route. It's like they're designed so that you strictly need to use the toe shifter for down shifting and the heel shifter for upshifting. Some may think duh, but I was hoping for the flexibility. Another issue is that the toe pegs I got with the controls are WAY too short. The AS controls mounting point of the heel pegs are definitely further out than the stockers. This pushes my foot out farther making for a really weird angle of my ankle to operate the toe pegs (and this is on both shift and brake side). I should be able to resolve this by going to wider to pegs.
 

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Discussion Starter #78
I got a hold of several local shops and I have two shops that are of interest at this point. I think what I'm going to do is pull both forks off the bike and take them to one of the two shops to have them check over the forks and replace the seals. I've been quoted 1hr for BOTH forks at $100 an hour so that is a lot better than the $600+ price tag HD quoted me.

I did get my rear fender eliminator from Altered State yesterday and plan on putting that on soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #79
I was able to get the forks pulled and got them dropped off to a local Harley dealership to have the seals replaced. About $250 later in labor and the new seals are now sealing.

Got out to the Fitzgerald Motorsports V-Rod rally over the weekend and had an absolute blast. I'd never drag raced a motorcycle before and it was so much fun. I really really need to practice more and even though I was still one of the slower bikes it was still a good time. Ended running a 12.22 @ 110.97 on my best pass out of probably 10 hits.

Rowland was able to capture this cool pic at the starting line:

604798
 

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Discussion Starter #80
Was also able to get the bike on the dyno and make a couple of pulls. Something wasn't right as the bike would only go to 8k rpm before it would hit the rev limiter. It wasn't doing that on the drag strip the previous day per the stock tach so I'm not sure what was going on. But in the end it made 115whp and 84wtq:

 
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