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Hi Ron,

I did coast down a long hill a while back and maybe that triggered the B1154. I also replaced the grips when I first got the bike, but the clutch side was the easy side. Really not much to mess up there.

I did install O2 elims when I removed the sensors. I'm running a PCV with the akra map.
I'd say if the bike starts in gear with clutch pulled in, should be fine. Changing the lever itself could break the switch timp off but grip only, no problem. I guess, just clear the codes and see if they return. As for ABS and no actual code, it's weird. Make sure that plug is fully seated in the area behind the Akro can and all wiring along the right lower and upper frame rail to be in good shape. Again, we are assuming it's the rear doing it. Without a more specific code I don't know. On the PCV and the AKRO map, I've looked at it. Do you find it rich and crappy MPG with that cal. Reason I ask is the leanest spot was only 13.8 or so. Main thing is it runs good with a base cal. That's rare in itself.
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #42
I'd say if the bike starts in gear with clutch pulled in, should be fine. Changing the lever itself could break the switch timp off but grip only, no problem. I guess, just clear the codes and see if they return. As for ABS and no actual code, it's weird. Make sure that plug is fully seated in the area behind the Akro can and all wiring along the right lower and upper frame rail to be in good shape. Again, we are assuming it's the rear doing it. Without a more specific code I don't know. On the PCV and the AKRO map, I've looked at it. Do you find it rich and crappy MPG with that cal. Reason I ask is the leanest spot was only 13.8 or so. Main thing is it runs good with a base cal. That's rare in itself.
Ron
I did check the wiring along the bottom of the swing arm last night, including checking that abs sensor connection and I didn't see any issues at all. I don't think I ever even disconnected that plug as I just laid the abs sensor to the side while I pulled the rear wheel out.

I don't have a ton of seat time on the bike yet, but so far so good on the canned Akra PCV tune. I do have some popping so I'm sure the tune could use some cleaning up in a lot of places, but that's to be assumed using a canned tune. That's another reason I want to move to the PV is that there are TONS of available tunes for the PV and only one for the PCV. I know these tunes are just reference points, but I can just tell the support for the PV is a bit better. If the PCV ever sells I'll move to the PV. But until that happens I am totally fine continuing to run the PCV with the Akra map. Eventually I'll pickup the autotune kit and get the bike dialed in.
 

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I did check the wiring along the bottom of the swing arm last night, including checking that abs sensor connection and I didn't see any issues at all. I don't think I ever even disconnected that plug as I just laid the abs sensor to the side while I pulled the rear wheel out.

I don't have a ton of seat time on the bike yet, but so far so good on the canned Akra PCV tune. I do have some popping so I'm sure the tune could use some cleaning up in a lot of places, but that's to be assumed using a canned tune. That's another reason I want to move to the PV is that there are TONS of available tunes for the PV and only one for the PCV. I know these tunes are just reference points, but I can just tell the support for the PV is a bit better. If the PCV ever sells I'll move to the PV. But until that happens I am totally fine continuing to run the PCV with the Akra map. Eventually I'll pickup the autotune kit and get the bike dialed in.
Don't expect much from the PV tunes in canned state. Many are autogenerated and never saw a dyno. They need tuning to you bike . For that, the best setup will be the PV and the Target Tune module using WB sensors. Then you can dial in the afr you want and target it. Using NB stock sensors PV1 only is limited to the CLB tables and only works to 5-6k and while you can get down to 14.2 afr it's the limit the sensors can handle in the clb settings. As sensors age they struggle to hit the high voltage number so in reality 14.5 is the realistic limit. That's what I run mine at in the low end and cruise for that reason. Runs good, cool enough and gets an honest 38 mpg driven in a sane mannor.
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Any idea when brake fluid been changed including activation/cycling of the abs module?
I am assuming at this point the brake fluid has never been changed. It is on my to do list after I pickup one of those MityVac's from HF. The bike apparently sat for 2-3 years before I purchased it. It sounds odd to me, but I can't verify anything and it's what I was told (I bought the bike from a dealer in Tennessee). It had 6100 miles on it when I bought it and now just hit 6400. If I'm remembering correctly the interval for brake fluid was at 6k miles.
 

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I am assuming at this point the brake fluid has never been changed. It is on my to do list after I pickup one of those MityVac's from HF. The bike apparently sat for 2-3 years before I purchased it. It sounds odd to me, but I can't verify anything and it's what I was told (I bought the bike from a dealer in Tennessee). It had 6100 miles on it when I bought it and now just hit 6400. If I'm remembering correctly the interval for brake fluid was at 6k miles.
2 years max is about the time the corrosion inhibitors in Dot4 start to break down and corrosion could take place. To do the brake flush correctly you need software also if doing it yourself. A member here has that Infomercenary Android tool, or Twinscan2 ABS will do the same but more money. If you don't cycle the ABS via software old fluid will remain and corrode the valving in the HCU. Just a simple vac bleed and flush don't cut it. Beware though, if flushes have not been done in the 2 year periods you unit could fail during the cycling process.
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Finally able to get out last night with the wife after we dropped the boys off at the in-laws. I've been wanting to get her on the bike 1) because I actually do enjoy riding with her and 2) so we can figure out what this bike needs to make her more comfortable. We had an 08 NRS before this bike and we could ride all day on that with the sundowner passenger seat. It also had extended passenger pegs on it when we bought it and I think that is the first thing we need to get for the new bike. She was saying how uncomfortable the backrest was on this bike when it's really in the exact same spot and position as the previous backrest. We're going to start with extended pegs and an airhawk seat and go from there.

Another thing I learned was that these stock shocks are absolute garbage. I had them set at the number 3 position for my riding. We went down the road and they immediately bottomed out. I pulled back in, moved them up to the stiffest position and they still bottom out. Really disappointed in these things. Why even have a passenger seat if you can't ride the bike on stock suspension with a passenger? Darn, I guess I'll have to go air suspension LOL.

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Finally able to get out last night with the wife after we dropped the boys off at the in-laws. I've been wanting to get her on the bike 1) because I actually do enjoy riding with her and 2) so we can figure out what this bike needs to make her more comfortable. We had an 08 NRS before this bike and we could ride all day on that with the sundowner passenger seat. It also had extended passenger pegs on it when we bought it and I think that is the first thing we need to get for the new bike. She was saying how uncomfortable the backrest was on this bike when it's really in the exact same spot and position as the previous backrest. We're going to start with extended pegs and an airhawk seat and go from there.

Another thing I learned was that these stock shocks are absolute garbage. I had them set at the number 3 position for my riding. We went down the road and they immediately bottomed out. I pulled back in, moved them up to the stiffest position and they still bottom out. Really disappointed in these things. Why even have a passenger seat if you can't ride the bike on stock suspension with a passenger? Darn, I guess I'll have to go air suspension LOL.

View attachment 603617
Well, I looked at what is called a passenger seat and immediately took the rear pegs off. Not a two up bike, basiclly with that seat. More like an ECM cover then anything else.
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Well, I looked at what is called a passenger seat and immediately took the rear pegs off. Not a two up bike, basiclly with that seat. More like an ECM cover then anything else.
Ron
They can be good 2 up bikes, just need a few mods :) Out of everything I wanted in a bike (including riding 2 up with the wife as that was part of our deal) these bikes fit that mold the best.
 

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They can be good 2 up bikes, just need a few mods :) Out of everything I wanted in a bike (including riding 2 up with the wife as that was part of our deal) these bikes fit that mold the best.
Possible but I've not seen a single decent passenger seat for 2012 and up. Pegs can be dealt with with extenders down lower, which is another poor placement for the passenger in my view.
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Possible but I've not seen a single decent passenger seat for 2012 and up. Pegs can be dealt with with extenders down lower, which is another poor placement for the passenger in my view.
Ron
The seat itself or the backrest? Already have the Dalavas Brazil quick release backrest. Will be getting an Airhawk seat pad for the seat itself and then will relocate the pegs lower with the Altered State relocators soon.
 

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The seat itself or the backrest? Already have the Dalavas Brazil quick release backrest. Will be getting an Airhawk seat pad for the seat itself and then will relocate the pegs lower with the Altered State relocators soon.
Stock passenger seat is crap. The HD backrest and rack , pretty much bling effect and not much else. I saw your removable back rest and that's more like it. Will follow you on the rest of the passenger improvements.
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Well my B1007 and C0562 codes are back. Both are strange electrical related codes that I'm wondering if I just have a weak / bad battery. I haven't had any issues starting the bike after I initially did (I charged it with my old Harley charger I had) and I have no real issues with the bike. The ABS light did pop up on me again while riding this past week, but didn't come on at all when I was about riding with the wife. I hit the brakes hard when I was by myself and the ABS is 100% working ok.
 

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Well my B1007 and C0562 codes are back. Both are strange electrical related codes that I'm wondering if I just have a weak / bad battery. I haven't had any issues starting the bike after I initially did (I charged it with my old Harley charger I had) and I have no real issues with the bike. The ABS light did pop up on me again while riding this past week, but didn't come on at all when I was about riding with the wife. I hit the brakes hard when I was by myself and the ABS is 100% working ok.
As you say, both are voltage related codes. One too high and for the ABS too low a voltage. Check charging output and do a load test on a full charged battery. Check all grounds and plugs carefully too. Seems to be pointing to either a flakey battery or voltage regulator.
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #57
I recently sold the Power Commander V and ordered up a Power Vision from Fuel Moto. I just really fell in love with the idea of the PV being able to truly flash the ECU with a different tune vs. always having to have the PCV on the bike itself.

What is everyone's thoughts on the Power Commander Autotune vs the Target Tune? I like that the Target tune is a full closed loop system all the time. Anyone have any experience either way?

I'm also now in the market for a battery. I had a Shorai on my last R1 that I loved, but seems like quite a few folks on here have had issues. Any other brands people really like?
 

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I can't speak towards PV but for a battery, I use the antigravity one. Has more cranking amps than stock, very light and has a restart feature that once the batter hits a certain low voltage, it holds that remaining power and then you can press a button that will expel that power for cranking. The one thing I don't like it that the terminals aren't threaded, they are inserts that go into the terminals and without a bike lift/stand it was a pain to get the cable to start threading the insert without the insert falling out.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
I can't speak towards PV but for a battery, I use the antigravity one. Has more cranking amps than stock, very light and has a restart feature that once the batter hits a certain low voltage, it holds that remaining power and then you can press a button that will expel that power for cranking. The one thing I don't like it that the terminals aren't threaded, they are inserts that go into the terminals and without a bike lift/stand it was a pain to get the cable to start threading the insert without the insert falling out.
This is also the direction I’m leaning. Did you go with the ATX20RE?

Ended up finding a nice wheel chock made by Baxley last night. It’s the Baxley Sport Chock. It is so nice having the bike straight up and down vs leaned over on the kickstand in the garage. Amazing how much room is free’d up just by getting the bike upright. I can now check oil level with ease and it even has bolts that come with it so you can mount the chock to a trailer floor if you wanted to transport the bike
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