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spit happens
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I finally put my bracket on to raise the lid.I can tell you this,it will give you more power.You can feel it in the seat of your pants.Even at about 10mph.It just sucks in so much more air. :diablo: What I need to do now is put the modified bottem on.Everthing must be done in stages.If you look you can see where the stock bottem is blocking more air from coming in. :angeldev:
 

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spit happens
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
After I went for a ride I relocated the IAT sensor to the cap.I thought that it would get me a more acurate reading.
 

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Metal Guitarist
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What about the big gap you have there now? have you thought about the fiberglass ones that have the scoop in them?
Also how much water do you think could collect in it when it rains?
 

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spit happens
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It must work,because the exhaust gave a little different sound.It gave me a little more throttle response of idle.If you don't beleive me, you can try it for yourself.
I placed it near and above the front stack,so that way it gets a reading of the air going into the stack.Don't worry it is not an obstruction to the air going into the stack.I wouldn't want to block the rush of incoming air. :angeldev:
 

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Chad 02 V-ROD
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Hey Vinny you need a latch so that when your parked it will look stock then when time to ride push the latch and up comes the lid. Just alittle engineering haha. I think the idea is cool but it makes your bike look like it is broke. don't yell at me thought you would want an honest opinion.
 

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spit happens
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yes, I have.Whenever I get the bike ready for a paint job,I am gonna pick one up from American Customs.I really don't ride when it rains.Now I'm gonna have to fab up a quick release system for when it rains.
These 2 little and free mods will help in the torque and HP department.
 

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Metal Guitarist
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Hook up a small 12 volt high powered fan to shoot down the stacks, that would be cool.Matter of fact i have a couple out in the garage, i should try that sometime.
 

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spit happens
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
runit1971 said:
Hey Vinny you need a latch so that when your parked it will look stock then when time to ride push the latch and up comes the lid. Just alittle engineering haha. I think the idea is cool but it makes your bike look like it is broke.
When I get the dual filters,and modified bottem on you'll be able too see them and then it won't look "broke"It"ll be BADA$$. :angeldev: Everyone will wanna see what's under it.
This is more of a drag racing trick.The infamous Kaz and Tripp Nobles,and I'm sure other racers use this trick.
 

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Vrodvinny,
I cut the bottom of my air box off while being careful to stay just outside of the filter lip. Basically I am top and bottom less. By doing this there"in MHO" is no need to buy dual filters. Plus the crank vent tubes don't need to be filtered either. The K&N flows more than the amount of air the Revolution can breethe in.
Also not to be dicouraging but I have ran the V-Rod with out the airbox cover at all and didn't feel a big diffence. You need to get a varification from someone like Kaz or another diehard V-Rod racer. I'm sure someone with the "Kaz's racing knowledge :kaz: " would of tried this before. Good luck with your endevers.
 

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Yes Bruiser!Vinny has my old set up that is cut just how you described!I went to a dual filter setup for the street and really seems to work well! :diablo: Vinny is following me right down That Fast Lane! :kaz:
 

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spit happens
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
bruiser1 said:
Also not to be dicouraging but I have ran the V-Rod with out the airbox cover at all and didn't feel a big diffence. QUOTE]
Without the lid it doesn't create the ram air effect.
 

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I believe a moter is just a pump. Without a supercharged forcing of air a Ram Air effect is not much more than a mythical advertisement slogan trumped up by Pontiac in the latter 60's and 70's. Chevy used cowl induction and it preformed as well as Ram Air. You would need to directly force air into the velocity stack. And at 10 mph you can not get that much of an air charge to make a noticeable amount of hp.
 

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spit happens
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
bruiser1 said:
. And at 10 mph you can not get that much of an air charge to make a noticeable amount of hp.
I know what I feel in the seat of my pants. :D There is more open air for the filter to suck in now.
Try it for yourself.I know that it works on my bike,and others.
Skeptics gotta love'em. ;)
 

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Skeptics gotta love'em.
Let's see. I have helped build 800+ horsepower engines for the likes of Lasosky,Kinser, Swindell,Blaney,Haudenschild,Geurntz,and a few others. At 10 mph there is not enough of an air charge to make a difference. As you approach speeds in the 50's and above you may pick up an extra 5-7 hp with a engine capable of producing 400 Hp. There is more air for the filter to suck in but not any more than completely removing the airbox cover and besides it only will take what air it needs. Even if you have devised the worlds best ram air unit simply by lifting the front of the airbox cover an inch you have negated any increase in hp by causing drag on the front part of the bike. If your theory is correct then Dale jr. should pit with 20 to go and open the hood on his Chevy just an little.
You keep trying and keep everyone up to date. I just was trying to give a little helpful advice not disrespect you or your efferts. Going by what your signature is "If it doesn't make me go faster,or stop faster,I don't want it!" I was just trying to persuade you to put you efforts into different areas. I am sorry for offending you.
 

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spit happens
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Go to an AHDRA event and look at the big boys on v-rods.They are running it.At any speed the engine is getting cooler air,by it rushing in and pushing the warmer air away, than breathing the warm air that has been sitting under the lid.
Look at the muscle cars from the 60's and 70's. look at the shaker hood on the hemi cuda,it comes up through the hood but not enough to create a ram-air.The reason they did this is to breathe in COOL air.This is what I am meaning at 10mph.

If you look at Nextel cup air filter system,it is not an open element.It has a closed box that has an opening at the cowl to bring in COOL air.

Ram-air is a reality not a myth.It works
 

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Get yourselves one of these and all the speculations go away:
http://www.gtechpro.com/
There are models for under $150. Not recommended for use on busy roads! Mine works great, adds fun, reduces dyno expenses, allows for quick performance comparisons, and it's relatively cheap! No more "seat of the pants" measurements. I'll be curious who's right. I could see it go either way!

I'm topless and did my IAT sensor the same as Vinny (with a small zip-tie wrapped around on the inside), but I added a bit of silicon to keep the crud out. For the bottom, I drilled a couple of small holes in the APPROPRIATE places to let the collecting rain water out. Also, I have a K&N "PreCharger" filter wrap to help deflect the water off the filter, and keep the big dirt out (very important for my application). Look here: http://www.knfilters.com/wraps.htm The 22-8001PK is a good roomy size for the V-Rod, (E-3530PK is an extremely tight fit), purchased here: http://www.performanceintl.com for $17.
 

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Zigspan...

That G-tech looks very cool. Im interested. Do you have one? For about the cost of one dyno run, it looks like it could be very useful for checking results of a modification once you set a baseline. The accuracy of 3% is about 3 HP on our bikes, but the repeatability of .5 %, or less than .5 HP, is well within the accuracy of a dyno, I would think. At least as long as the air temp, pressure, fuel and weight of the bike is the same.
In otherwords the baseline HP may be off by as much as 3.5 HP. But, any mods done after that should show HP changes with accuracy within less than a half HP.
The miracles of science......
 

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spit happens
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Zijspan said:
Get yourselves one of these and all the speculations go away:
http://www.gtechpro.com/


I'm topless and did my IAT sensor the same as Vinny (with a small zip-tie wrapped around on the inside), but I added a bit of silicon to keep the crud out. .
I did this real quick.I was thinking about doing it when I went for a ride with just the lid raised.I Would suggest using a rubber grommet.This is just temporary,I am going with a dual filter set up.
 

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adamsg said:
That G-tech...
I couldn't have said it better. But, it can't completely replace a real dyno. It's mostly good for comparing the BEFORE and AFTER when fiddling with performance, as with the issue in this thread. I have one and it works fine. You'll have to get into the bike wiring to tap off 12V to power it.
 
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