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installing wheel bearing...

11K views 30 replies 11 participants last post by  rsc 
#1 ·
OK... so Sunday was my first time installing wheel bearing after getting the wheel powdercoated. I use the freezing bearing method and tap them in with large socket. everything was fine until i am done, and notice the bearing has significant recess, maybe about 5mm from the pocket lip. i notice that i cant turn the inside race with my finger, it seems like the bearing seated too tight against the inner spacer.

so, is this normal, or am i **** up? if i have to do this again, how do i know when to stop tapping?

 
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#2 ·
The inner spacer should keep the bearing from going in too far.
 
#4 ·
Mine had no recess with my stock wheels, or when I changed to '08D wheels w/ Harley's
proper mounting kit.

The bearing should be tight against the inner machined shoulder.
 
#7 ·
When I changed my wheels, to '08D's, the kit came with the proper spacer for correct fitment. But, I believe my spacer was only a sleeve for the different size axle. There were no spacers in the bearing pocket.

How were yours Andy?
 
#9 ·
It should be ok i am pretty sure mine was the same way the only way of knowing for sure is to install the wheel with the spacers if there is no space between the inside of the fork and the spacer then you are good if there is a big gap on both sides of the spacer and the forks then i would have different spacers made but it should fit ok i dont think that you will have a problem if you do send me a pm.
 
#12 ·
The sleeves and the spacers are cut from the same stock to fit both the 1 in. and 25 mm axles.

The bearings will load the inner race against the inner sleeve.

The bearing will be all the way into the pocket.

There should not be a recess like yours. I could be wrong...been wrong before.

If this is a 08 D wheel bought from moco the wheel kit should work.

If this is a older 08D wheel that was machined then you need to get the older bearings and spacers and sleeve.

When tapping the bearing into the pocket a listen to the sound when the bearing bottoms out it will change to a thud sound instead of the ringing sound.

Hope this helps.
 
#16 ·
The sleeves and the spacers are cut from the same stock to fit both the 1 in. and 25 mm axles.

The bearings will load the inner race against the inner sleeve.

The bearing will be all the way into the pocket.

There should not be a recess like yours. I could be wrong...been wrong before.

If this is a 08 D wheel bought from moco the wheel kit should work.

If this is a older 08D wheel that was machined then you need to get the older bearings and spacers and sleeve.

When tapping the bearing into the pocket a listen to the sound when the bearing bottoms out it will change to a thud sound instead of the ringing sound.

Hope this helps.

:D

As stated above the wheel kit will work with your stock 1 inch axle.

Should have the correct bearings in it.

Double check to make sure.
 
#17 ·
Didn't you say that the axle race did not roll? If so, you need new bearings anyway. Get the kit like stated above!
 
#18 ·
sorry if i wasn't clear before. this is the front wheel from 2008 D. I am installing it back to my 08D (I have 2 bikes).

I get the bearing and sleeve taken out, powdercoat the wheel, and put the same bearing and sleeve back. so, i dont see why i need to buy kit as they were fine before taken out.

I cant remember how it looks (i.e. how the bearing sits) before they were taken out from the wheel. Sonny confirms his front bearing setup is the same like me, and he has the same bike so I know I am good.

those bearing rolls fine before i put them back, so i assume they are still good. now, after i put them back in, i cannot spin the axle race (inner race) with my finger. i get the impression that the are sitting "too tight" against inner spacer. I know I am using the right inner spacer too (because it comes out from the same wheel)

when I tapped the bearing, i heard the "thud" sound when they meet the spacer. i tapped several times more just to make sure they are sitting right with no gap.

i guess my question is: after both bearings are installed, is it OK if the inner race doesn't spin using finger? is it possible if the bearing are installed too tight?

i still need to do the rear wheel this coming weekend, but i screw up the front one, i hope i don't repeat the same mistake again.
 
#19 ·
one side of the inside of the hub has a recess and the other doesnt.not having that recess allows the bearings to be located by the one recess and spacer to locate the other bearing.you can over seat the bearing on the spacer by pressing to hard.if you locate the side with the recess and apply slight pressure to the inside race you will cause the other bearing to unseat enough to relax the tension on the inner races .dont hit the bearing.very slight pressure will be enough.there are two choices of bearings varing in width to suit these wheels.the outside spacers vary accordingly.
 
#20 ·
there is one bearing that is installed first and seated against a lip. the other bearing is driven in just enough to get a slight preload against the center spacer.. too muchpreload or a loose center spacer will cause the balls to side load against the internal races and will fail prematurely.. the shop manual indicates which side bearing is installed first...
 
#21 ·
manual says to install left side first, which I did - the side with stamped letter.

so, if the inner race doesn't spin using finger, can I assume i put too much load? how do i know the right amount of load?
 
#23 ·
wish I had the answer for you andy. mine were pulled in (slowly) w/all thread & correct sized washers and an open end-box end. they just got to the point where they felt right, looked right - without that much recess. I don't even remember if we did left or right side first. sorry, wish I had better info
 
#25 ·
Always install the bearing first on the primary side. On the V-rod the front is the left side and the rear is the right side.

Install bearing on the left side side first (thud sound).

Install the inner sleeve.

Install second bearing, once it bottoms out you are done. no need to keep checking to see if it is bottom out by hitting on it some more.

Lets talk this through on the loading of the bearings.

The inner sleeve will connect the inner races of the bearings. done...

The spacers to the forks will load the outter races of ther bearings. done...

Use the proper torque setting.

Once you tighten down the nut the load is set according to what the Manufacture wants.

Overloading can and will cause damge to the bearing.

Overloading a bearing is the same as damaging them in my eyes.

When you hit the bearing on the inner sleeve you are trying to imprint the the sleeve on the bearing race causing it to bind and do things it was not meant to do.

If you removed the bearings inspect them and make sure they are not damaged.

Spin them and listen to them and feel them trust yourself.

If you are not sure then use a new one.
 
#26 ·
Very good Obewon :)... Sounds like you've done this a time or two :)... Thanks for the input as I have not changed out wheel bearings on Rods yet... I've done more than I want to count on the airheads :)... In the old days, the inner spacer had to be cut to exact length to ensure side to side play with the Timkin bearings, when they went to the caged wheel bearings then the side to side changed as well... I have the JIMS puller/installer that presses these bearings in and out, I don't use hammers :)... Even with that, when I pull a bearing, I don't reuse it... That's just me :)... I've seen too many bearing go out after reinstalling old ones... Just my 2cents :) Good stuff as always RSC...
 
#27 ·
I hit the bearing using 36mm socket that fits the outer diameter. I don't hit the inner ring.

I plan to pull those bearings out and put new ones. I will install them myself again, but so far nobody answers my question: when bearing is already installed on wheel, and the inner race doesn't spin using finger, is it considered as bad bearing? or that is not the right indicator?

Maybe I should rephrase it: How do you check if a bearing is properly installed on the wheel? what to look/test/feel?

I apologize for the repeated dumb question, but there should be some sort of way to know if an installed bearing is good or not. Let me know if I am wrong here....
 
#29 ·
The inner race should spin freely, if it doesn't then the bearings inside have seized up so you don't want to use that bearing... These bearings as you know are sealed, the bearing inside ride on both the outer and inner races... The outer race does not move but the inner must move to prevent bearing failure... So, to check a bearing you spin it on your finger and your feeling if there is any drag or snag or noise...

Even when you use a socket that fits the outside race, when you "hammer" it out, you shock the bearing and put too much side load on it that can damage the bearing... I use a specialty tool the pulls/pushes the bearing in the hub... Even when I use this tool to pull a bearing, I never reuse it... The problem with a sealed bearing is you can't see the bearings so you can only go by sound and feel...

In the old days when they ran tappered timkin bearings, the bearing were not sealed so you could pull them out, clean them in parts cleaner and visually inspect them for flat spots, cracks, hot spots etc... If they looked good and felt good then you could repack them with grease and use them but even then I never re-used bearings... They are cheap compared to your life... If you've ever been on a bike when a wheel bearing cut loose you would know what I mean :)...

JIMS USA makes a puller/installer as well as some other vendors out there... Hope this answered your question...
 
#28 ·
http://www.youtube.com/user/rscrod#p/u/37/CZ26FI9B3LM

http://www.youtube.com/user/rscrod#p/u/37/CZ26FI9B3LM

Check out my videos on this and this should help some.

Hold the bearing in your hand and hold the outter race.

The inner race will spin with the side housing.

If you hold the inner race then the outer race will spin.

The inner race is loaded with the sleeve and the spacer so it will not move.

The bearing is what they call a press fit.

The outer race will spin with the wheel.



Never a dumb ? this is how we learn.

So when you have the wheel installed...spin it and watch it spin.

If it stop real fast some thing is not right.

Do this before you put the calipers on and the brake pads will drag and stop the wheel.

Rod
 
#31 ·
Can you check your spacer sizes on the front and tell me if they are the same width.

I am wondering why the bearing is setting so far in the hub?

When you put the wheel on the spacers should be tight up against the forks.

Thus when you tighten the nut you should not be drawing the forks together to make up the 5 mm difference.
 
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