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Discussion Starter #1
I'm putting kellerman mirco 1000 dark LED signals on the front of the bike and arlene ness infernal signals on the rear of my 2011 NRS. My problem is the the kellerman signals have a silver(+) and black(-) wire but the original signals had 3 wires (Blue/violet/black). Also, the rear ness signals have a blue(++), red(+) and black(-) wire but the original signals only had violet and black. How should I connect them?
 

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SpeedoDocter
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The black is the GND
THe violet is the turn signal +
The blue is the running (you dont have in the new signals)

for rear the situation is just opposite. THe black stays black for Ground. if it is not written in the instructions i would just test on the battery what wire to + results in the brightest output. i think the blue is the running wire and the red the signal.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
So I had the lights hooked up and they're not working. I connected the front LED(+) to the violet, left the blue(running) harness wire open and connected the grounds. On the rear I connected the LED blue(+ blinker wire) to the violet and connected the grounds, and left the LED red(+ running) wire open. I also have a biketronics relay system and when I turn the key, the signals don't come on which is normal, but when I hit the signal buttons, nothing comes on either.

When the front LED(+) wire is connected to the blue wire of the harness, both front and rear lights come on solid but they don't blink.

Am I missing something?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I went and bout a new TSM just in case the last one shortened. Now the bike won't start, and also the signals still don't work.
 

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I NEVER messed with the fronts before but have changed the signals & tail light w/intergrated signals in it & also a led strip running/brake light. I've been told if you go with led front & backs you will need a load equalizer or something like that.
Why don't u do this: for now hook up the rear signals only ...there is only purple & black coming from them. Purple is the directional, so hook up your red from the new Sig., keep black with black is ground& blue is probably for running lights which you would tap into the tail light harness for that. I currently purchased a set of led sigs. from a forum member, thought they were just that, to my pleasant surprise they are also running & brake. I am in the proccess of installing them now. The running is the blue wire & the brake is red, hope this helps you out.
 

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Hmmm. first.. does the arrow indicator in your gauges lite up when you hit a turn-button. when bulbs are off these indicator still should work no mather what. leds without equilizer do flash three times normal and than much faster to warn a bulb is not lighting up...

Maybe you just have blown the 'security' fuse and indicators are not working... the running wire 'blue' is on another fuse, lights fuse i think. have to check wire drawings....

i have experimented alot with indicators when i did build these in led and even if you take all off front and rear the leds should still light up.. just because the leds are lower in power useage the TSM doubles the flash rate and throws a error code... but it will work...

If you would hit the hazzard (left and right button simultaniously) the flash rate is normal for all fours. even without equilizer...

It could be you need to ty the run and flash wire from the led plate together to purple or brown from harnes...

The TSM needs to be married (programmed) to the ECM with a procedure from the book. it's not a 'easy' replacement part.. i thought for the older models can be done without computers or dealer. not sure for newest bikes.
i think Stever needs to chime in with his collection of 'manuals' :D... first check fuses though. The TSM or TSSM is hard to break...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
To be honest, I'm not sure what happened to it. I was in the garage tinkering with it and showing my friend who has a night train. It wouldn't work for me and then I turned the bike off. He then walked over to the bike, turned it on, and literally everything just started working. The indicators worked perfect and the bike started. We didn't move or unhook anything. It was just like he had a magic touch I guess. Thanks every one for their input. I appreciate all the help!
 

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Is his name , "ARTHUR FONZERELLI"? DOES he walk into a bar & hit the juke box to get it working? :D
 

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I'm going to bump this thread. I recently installed some LED turn signals from VMOD, but my issue is that they are amber and they activate when I press on the brake. Is there any way to rewire the turn signals so that they only serve as turn signals and not also brake lights? I imagine there is a wire connecting the two somewhere that I can disconnect...
 

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I installed LEDs for my front turn signals and now I have the key light on constantly because of the voltage drop (I guess). Does anyone know what and even better where to get a capacitor to fix the key light warning?
Thanks all!
 

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I installed LEDs for my front turn signals and now I have the key light on constantly because of the voltage drop (I guess). Does anyone know what and even better where to get a capacitor to fix the key light warning?...
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If the problem was the LEDs a capacitor wouldn't help.

An LED signal problem would result in rapidly flashing signal lights but you wouldn't set a TSM/TSSM code (indicated by your "key" light being illuminated).

Rapidly flashing signals are an indication of a burned out incandescent bulb or LEDs being added to the front and rear (adding LEDs to just the front or rear will usually not cause the lights to blink rapidly). If your signal lights blink rapidly you need to use a "load equalizer". These devices add additional load to the circuit (reducing resistance by installing a current draw that simulates the incandescent bulb). A capacitor won't do this. The Load Equalizer will come with instructions for how to install it.

Your "key" light being on indicates that you probably miss-installed the lights and have an output fault, short to ground, or short to voltage, but you need to read the code to be sure (see this post for how to read and reset codes and download this pdf of codes for the newer bikes like yours).
 

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I just went through this and used this item ( ITEM#: GEN-UNV-STABILIZER) from Custom Dynamics and it solved all issues.

A link to the page. http://www.customdynamics.com/loadequalizer.htm
I bought one of these when I bought my front led halo turns from them and didn't end up needing it. It's brand new and never hooked up. If anyone needs a load equalizer I'll sell it for $40 shipped. I paid over $70 at the stealership.

Later
James
 

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If anyone needs a load equalizer I'll sell it for $40 shipped. I paid over $70 at the stealership.

Later
James
Man that's a good price!

I'm using the R/B/T module on the rear, I had to install one.
 

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I bought one of these when I bought my front led halo turns from them and didn't end up needing it. It's brand new and never hooked up. If anyone needs a load equalizer I'll sell it for $40 shipped. I paid over $70 at the stealership.

Later
James
Hello do you still have that load stabilizer
 

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I know this is an old thread but it's the closest I've come to finding an answer to my annoying problem and hoping someone is still out there I installed an integrated led taillight with taillight, brake and turn signals on it and I'm leaving the original rear turn signals on the bike as well but changing all lights including headlight bulbs to led I have load equalizers on the integrated led taillight turn signals because it came with them soooo everything works but the right rear original turn signal unless I put a regular bulb in it but all the other lights work perfectly and I have the 2 rear signal lights connected the same way on both sides except on the 2002 V-Rod the left rear turn signal is purple wire positive right turn signal is purple wire negative the wires for the right rear turn signal coming from the front are brown and black brown goes to black black goes to purple but I don't know why it's working with the regular bulb but not the led insert even though there is a load equalizer between the ground of original turn signal and the spliced integrated and original positive wires if anyone can help solve this dilemma I'd really appreciate it right now I have 1 incandescent bulb in so I can leave the others led.
 
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