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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anyone know what the torque value is for the clutch cover? Do I use any locktight on these bolts? Also, do I need to smear a thin coating on oil on clutch cover gasket before remounting?

One last thing, do I use locktight on header bolts when putting exhaust back on?:notworth:
 

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turner1968 said:
Does anyone know what the torque value is for the clutch cover? Do I use any locktight on these bolts? Also, do I need to smear a thin coating on oil on clutch cover gasket before remounting?

One last thing, do I use locktight on header bolts when putting exhaust back on?:notworth:
Clutch cover bolts are torque to 85 in·lbs.

No oil on gasket.

Blue thread locking compound on cover fasteners won't hurt.

On my bike the header is held on with nuts on studs. The nuts have "locking" serrations. These get too hot for thread locking compound.
 

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Color me Gone
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The clutch cover torque is 85 in pounds that is about 8 ft pounds. I have never put oil on my gasket, I wipe it clean and re-use the same one and have done so about 8 times now. You can use loctite if you like, I did not and don't think my bolts had any from the factory.

Loctite does no good on exhaust, remember it releases with heat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
springs

Max,

I see in one of your pictures that you have red springs. Are those stock? I have black ones. Is there a difference? Should I buy the red? how many shims should I use? I have no engine mods.

Also, I notice on some of my springs a yellowish substance. Is this from h20 leakage? How do I fix if so?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
ONe last thing. In the Aims kit there is a loose spacer/washer I guess you could call it, with 10 tabs jetting out. Where does this go?
 

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Color me Gone
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The red springs are 100# springs and come from Barnett Clutch. Stock springs are 80#. If you are all stock and do not race you don't need any shims. If you ride agressive you might install one shim, if you race I suggest two shims. If you use the red springs I suggest two shims because the total height of the red springs is shorter then the black springs.

The yellow could be condensation that collects in most engines. If you have a coolant leak usually you have a milk shake in the oil.
 

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turner1968 said:
ONe last thing. In the Aims kit there is a loose spacer/washer I guess you could call it, with 10 tabs jetting out. Where does this go?
Look at the pictures of my install, that spacer goes in first before the aim unit or the springs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
bearing

Max,

I finally got all the tools. One last step...I hope. The bearing does the nipple face in or out? I can't tell in your picture.
 

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turner1968 said:
Max,

I finally got all the tools. One last step...I hope. The bearing does the nipple face in or out? I can't tell in your picture.
The button as it's called faces out.
 

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turner1968 said:
Max,

I finally got all the tools. One last step...I hope. The bearing does the nipple face in or out? I can't tell in your picture.
If you get this wrong you will not be able to pull in the clutch lever. Don't ask me how I know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Aims Installed

Ok, I have successfuly installed clutch accuator. Problem, I do not notice any difference in clutch lever pull. I thought with the Aims unit I should notice at least a 50% decrease in lever tension. :banghead: The lever action feels as it did with old set up. I torqued to 85lb. Am I not realizing something? I used my original springs and did not use any shims what so ever. Didn't leak any oil what so ever. Had bike on blocks with enough lean to keep oil from leaking out.

I find all gears, no slipping, neutral still easy to find. I did notice that in the clutch master cylinder the fluid looks very merky. Can this be a contributing factor? Any input/insight would be greatly appreciated.
 

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i think 50% is a little bit of a high expectation.. it did decrease my pull.. i have stock springs no shims..but i wouldnt go as far as to say it was 50%..
 

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turner1968 said:
Ok, I have successfuly installed clutch accuator. Problem, I do not notice any difference in clutch lever pull. I thought with the Aims unit I should notice at least a 50% decrease in lever tension. :banghead: The lever action feels as it did with old set up. I torqued to 85lb. Am I not realizing something? I used my original springs and did not use any shims what so ever. Didn't leak any oil what so ever. Had bike on blocks with enough lean to keep oil from leaking out.

I find all gears, no slipping, neutral still easy to find. I did notice that in the clutch master cylinder the fluid looks very merky. Can this be a contributing factor? Any input/insight would be greatly appreciated.
I thought the same thing when I installed mine. However after I took a ride in traffic and used the clutch several times the difference became very apparent. Then when I was at a bike night with two v-rods side by side mine with 100 pound springs was much easier then another bike with stock springs. Sometimes you just have to have the two side by side to see the difference. IMHO I really wish I had used something like a fish scale to check mine before so I could compare the actual pull pressure before and after.
 

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Billy
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Max, I may be wrong, but didn't you post a table/chart somewhere that shows the lever pressure and clutch pressure stock vrs AIM with no shims, 1 shims, 2 shims, etc.
I'll go look, maybe it was on the AIM website.
 

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turner1968 said:
Ok, I have successfuly installed clutch accuator. Problem, I do not notice any difference in clutch lever pull. I thought with the Aims unit I should notice at least a 50% decrease in lever tension. :banghead: The lever action feels as it did with old set up. I torqued to 85lb. Am I not realizing something? I used my original springs and did not use any shims what so ever. Didn't leak any oil what so ever. Had bike on blocks with enough lean to keep oil from leaking out.

I find all gears, no slipping, neutral still easy to find. I did notice that in the clutch master cylinder the fluid looks very merky. Can this be a contributing factor? Any input/insight would be greatly appreciated.
What exactly did you torque to "85 lbs"?

I don't recall a single bolt that needs to be 85 foot-lbs of torque anywhere during this install.
 

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rjrivero said:
What exactly did you torque to "85 lbs"?

I don't recall a single bolt that needs to be 85 foot-lbs of torque anywhere during this install.
Both the spring screws and the cover bolts are supposed to be torqued to 86 INCH - LBS (not ft-lbs)
 

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Steppenwolf said:
Both the spring screws and the cover bolts are supposed to be torqued to 86 INCH - LBS (not ft-lbs)
That's exactly what I mean, Alex.
 
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