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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

I have an interesting problem here. Today I decided to switch over from my power commander (no at) to a mastertune. Connected the bungs back up, removed pcv, returned ecm cable to the ecm. I turn the ignition switch on, and the fuel pump starts to prime. I switch on the run switch, and nothing happens.

In fact I can start the bike without the run switch in run.. This is strange.. I started the bike, sounds beautiful, rides like a dream, but wtf is going on here.. Even when it primes when I turn on the ignition it sometimes jitters (like primes a bit stops, primes a bit more etc)

Does anyone have any ideas?

Thanks alot!

Dustin
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Could it be the system relay?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Maybe the run switch is shorted? Any help here at all guys?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
This is aggravating lol

12V from battery should go across the ign switch, then across the run switch to the system relay. What Im not sure about here is how are we bypassing the run switch allowing the fuel pump to engage for priming with only the ign switch on..

I sure as hell hope its not an ecm problem.. The bike runs and works like a dream, The only problem is that the fuel pump primes (normal priming time, but like I said earlier the relay clicks intermittently sometimes during the prime) Once the engine is started there is no problem.. I get no codes.. The only thing I can see is a run switch problem but the kill switch portion of the switch works fine..

Anyone?
 

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This is aggravating lol

12V from battery should go across the ign switch, then across the run switch to the system relay. What Im not sure about here is how are we bypassing the run switch allowing the fuel pump to engage for priming with only the ign switch on..

I sure as hell hope its not an ecm problem.. The bike runs and works like a dream, The only problem is that the fuel pump primes (normal priming time, but like I said earlier the relay clicks intermittently sometimes during the prime) Once the engine is started there is no problem.. I get no codes.. The only thing I can see is a run switch problem but the kill switch portion of the switch works fine..

Anyone?
Diagnosing this will require electrical testing that can't be done remotely. Have you messed with the handle bars or right hand controls?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
No I haven't touched the controls at all.. All I did was remove the power commander, install the o2 bungs, save my factory calibration an then upload a mastertune cal.. But even before I uploaded the cal it was doing this.. Pretty much since I removed the pc..
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I am at a loss atm.. I mean I thought my electrical diagnosing was good but I cant figure this out.. Its like the run/stop switch is shorted out, however, its still functional as a kill switch.. Im looking at these schematics over and over and I cant figure out a place to start to make sense
 

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according to my schematic the fuel pump gets its 12V when the system relay is activated. (O/gy wire). I would switch the system relay with the fan relay and see if the symptoms change. If yes the relay is bad. If not you need to chase out what is activating the system relay. It could be pin 4 of the ECM.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Checked the system relay, didnt fix the isssue.\

From what I see on the schematic:

When then ign & run switches are on, 12v travels through the switches to terminal 86 on the system relay. Pin 4 of the ECM provides a signal to the otherside of the coil to energize the relay and takes the 12v sitting terminal 30 and sends it via the Y/GN to the fuse which then becomes the O/GY wire to the pump.

Thing is, the voltage is obviously getting to the system relay and it is getting energized as such. The issue however is it seems like the run switch is always closed which would allow the 12v to present itself to the relay..

The wild card however is pin 13 of the ecm is connected to the other side of the run switch.. Im not sure what happens here..

Ideas?
 

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Check the run switch next. Disconnect connector 22 and meter across the switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Alright, ill try that next when I get a chance, but I would think that if I can kill the engine with the switch that it *should* work unless Im missing something.
 

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Alright, ill try that next when I get a chance, but I would think that if I can kill the engine with the switch that it *should* work unless Im missing something.
Your right of course. Something is bypassing the switch or the ECM is bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
maybe Im just trying to convince myself, but if the ecm was bad wouldnt I see other symptoms? I mean I have no error codes no nothing, the only thing happening is the priming is happening early.. Injectors are getting fuel, coils are receiving info for proper spark.. I dunno, but I think Im going to start by pulling the ign fuse. if the engine light doesnt come on as if priming, when I turn the iginition then it has to be that signal giong to the relay..

Im heading across country tomorrow to buy a house so I may have to wait until I get back to take the bike into the shop.. Would really suck if the ecm was fried because I would have to get a new mastertune wouldnt I?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
update

Ok this morning I decided to do some digging around. I removed the IGN fuse, and sure enough the engine light did not come on as if it was going to prime. Then I decided to further chase and removed the right handlebar switch from the circuit. Again the engine light did not come on and no priming was attempted. This leads me to believe a short/open exists on the W/BK wire coming from the switch to the system relay. Now this could exist pretty much anywhere from the switch to the relay. I guess the next step is to test continuity from the molex connector (switch wires in left side cover) to the relay itself.

Im not sure if it is supposed to be 12V going from the switch to the relay or what.. I mean it looks like it, but then you would have 12V on either side of the coil when energized and that cant happen..

But I am assuming that the ecm may be ok... which is some good news.. chasing a wire is not good news..

Do you guys think Im on the right path?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ok for shits and giggles I tested continuity across the run switch (wh/bk - GY) and with the switch in run I get 0 Ohms, but in stop I get 50 Ohms.. Where I come from thats a shorted switch..

Confimation anyone?
 

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Obvious location for a short would be where the wires come out of the switch housing under the handle bars where the collar for the brake lever pinches the cable. Loosen it up, massage the cable a bit then try again.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I have a better idea.. Bike is under warranty, going to take it in and get the dealer to do it when I get back.. Not that I cant do it, its just I havnt used the warranty for anything so these ****ers can do it this time

BTW.. I ****ing love this mastertune..
 

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Ok for shits and giggles I tested continuity across the run switch (wh/bk - GY) and with the switch in run I get 0 Ohms, but in stop I get 50 Ohms.. Where I come from thats a shorted switch..

Confimation anyone?
Yes, 50 ohms is way too low a resistance in the off position. This should read ∞ or >> 100k ohms.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks Steve! Figured, just like to have the backup while I'm away from my baby heheh. Hopefully I'll find a house in the next few days head home and fix her up
 
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