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2003 V-Rod A
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm about to go on a serious rant here. I bought my first motorcycle a little over a month ago. It is the most awesome thing I have ever owned. On a daily basis, I get excited to go and ride it. I think it is by far the coolest looking HD they ever produced. That's why I bought it. I personally don't buy into the 1940's look with tassels and big white walls. Not my thing.

I have an 03 VRSCA. I just purchased and received a UE tank to install, and it was recommended to replace the fuel lines while I'm at it.
I went to the HD dealer in my area and asked the guy at the parts counter to get/order two fuel lines for an 03 VRod. He acted like he'd never heard of a Vrod before.
After I helped him use HIS computer to find the model, he brought up the exploded parts list for the fuel system. I told him I also needed the O-ring for the top of the tank. He said they didn't show it on the diagram. So...I pointed it out to him. OMG.

He looked up the fuel line part numbers and said..."Aw. Sorry. That part is obsolete." To which I said, well, what is the replacement part number? He said, I don't know. I said, can't you look it up? If you can't look it up, WHO CAN? You are a parts center for a HD Dealership? He was unable to assist.

I was still being nice at this point. I asked in a very polite way, what would I do if I blew a line on my vrod? He said I'd probably have to try to find an aftermarket part.

Here is where I blew a gasket. I said it's not like I'm asking for a part for a 1973 model. What the F do you do if your bike breaks down and you cannot get something as simple as a fuel line from the MAKER OF THE GD BIKE?

Should sell this thing before anything breaks on it and I have to put it to the road as scrap metal. What the F. Will I have to fabricate fuel lines and modify the engine/tank to work with custom lines?

Is the VRod considered an antique?
 

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I'm about to go on a serious rant here. I bought my first motorcycle a little over a month ago. It is the most awesome thing I have ever owned. On a daily basis, I get excited to go and ride it. I think it is by far the coolest looking HD they ever produced. That's why I bought it. I personally don't buy into the 1940's look with tassels and big white walls. Not my thing.

I have an 03 VRSCA. I just purchased and received a UE tank to install, and it was recommended to replace the fuel lines while I'm at it.
I went to the HD dealer in my area and asked the guy at the parts counter to get/order two fuel lines for an 03 VRod. He acted like he'd never heard of a Vrod before.
After I helped him use HIS computer to find the model, he brought up the exploded parts list for the fuel system. I told him I also needed the O-ring for the top of the tank. He said they didn't show it on the diagram. So...I pointed it out to him. OMG.

He looked up the fuel line part numbers and said..."Aw. Sorry. That part is obsolete." To which I said, well, what is the replacement part number? He said, I don't know. I said, can't you look it up? If you can't look it up, WHO CAN? You are a parts center for a HD Dealership? He was unable to assist.

I was still being nice at this point. I asked in a very polite way, what would I do if I blew a line on my vrod? He said I'd probably have to try to find an aftermarket part.

Here is where I blew a gasket. I said it's not like I'm asking for a part for a 1973 model. What the F do you do if your bike breaks down and you cannot get something as simple as a fuel line from the MAKER OF THE GD BIKE?

Should sell this thing before anything breaks on it and I have to put it to the road as scrap metal. What the F. Will I have to fabricate fuel lines and modify the engine/tank to work with custom lines?

Is the VRod considered an antique?
Biggest problem is dipshit Harley Davidson. As for custom making lines, yup can be done and the O ring you can get from a hydraulic supply house. O rings of any size imaginable.
Ron
 

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He's a craphead newbie parts guy. Ask the parts manager to do a H-D.net search of all dealers and the V Rod parts warehouse they have up there - they can find one believe me. Imagine how you'd feel if you paid 18K for a 2018 and get that service I'd ghost ride the bike thru their showroom window give it back to them in the same way they treated me. Maybe someone here knows of aftermarket fuel lines -
 

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2003 V-Rod A
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'd ghost ride the bike thru their showroom window give it back to them in the same way they treated me. Maybe someone here knows of aftermarket fuel lines -
ROFL. LMFAO. LOL (whatever laughing acronym I can think of)

He did find the O ring at a dealer about 40 miles from me which I will be picking up on Tuesday. He was a nice kid, but dumb as F.

Still laughing...that's freakin' funny. You took away 90% of my anger.
 

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Use H-D in front of your part numbers and google the crap out of it, I found many new & used fuel pressure and return hoses and the tank O ring for my bike on e bay, Vintage parts, New Castle, Supplier parts.com, H-D parts retailers etc. - thanks for reminding me to order them Wingloader my hoses being 15 years old I want to replace them before they fail. (y) :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Use H-D in front of your part numbers and google the crap out of it, I found many new & used fuel pressure and return hoses and the tank O ring for my bike on e bay, Vintage parts, New Castle, Supplier parts.com, H-D parts retailers etc. - thanks for reminding me to order them Wingloader my hoses being 15 years old I want to replace them before they fail. (y) :cool:
If I find anything, I'll post back here and let you know. My lines may be in perfect shape but even so, they are probably really old.
Say...another thing I've found is all the rubber grommets are rotted away too. For example the cover over the Maxi Fuse has rubber grommets to prevent rattling of the cover against the mounts. They are simply gone. I will probably make some molds and cast some with silicone. I'm sure there are other places on the bike where this has happened. Maybe I'll create a bunch of extras and sell them for 50 cents or something. I would bet others have already dealt with that. I'm not even going to think about asking HD if they have those parts. Ha.
 

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ROFL. LMFAO. LOL (whatever laughing acronym I can think of)

He did find the O ring at a dealer about 40 miles from me which I will be picking up on Tuesday. He was a nice kid, but dumb as F.

Still laughing...that's freakin' funny. You took away 90% of my anger.
That's good. A person needs about 10% anger to function correctly.
Ron
 

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You'd be surprised sometimes H-D has parts you wouldn't think they do in stock as sometimes they're not sold much and/ or used on their other M/C models. Also any good hardware store has those yellow bins with hard to find bushings, roll pins, grommets etc. - some good real car parts places too like the old NAPA Parts, the ones with greasy countertops that aren't the box stores selling just sunshades, loud Honda mufflers and a wall of oil & filters - but making your own grommets ? That there is true dedication my friend, I'm not there quite yet - :LOL: Yea let us know what you find !
 

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Wingloader. You don't have to replace the fuel lines to install your tank. UE recommends new (revised) lines. But yours will still work just fine. I went back with the original lines on mine. I guarantee you there are more early VROD's out there with the stock lines than the revised lines. And they are doing fine. Trust me, the idiots behind the counter are not exclusive the HD. They are everywhere. They aren't parts people. They are people who read computers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Cool @noechamp. If the lines don't look damaged, I'll just re-use them.

I'm prolly going to start ripping my bike apart tonight. I've done work on car engines when I didn't know what I was doing, and I managed to end up with no extra nuts or bolts. I just bought a MC lift from Harbor Freight yesterday. I'm a little nervous about disassembling the rear end but I'll figure it out as I go. I've read through the instructions on the UE tank install several times. Nothing I can't handle. The only thing I don't think I have a real trick to do: how to re-tension the drive belt when I put it back together. I have the manual, but I'm not sure how I will measure the tension on the belt without some special tool. I'm going to try to find a way to "measure" the tension before I rip it apart and use whatever technique I come up with to re-tension it. I could probably just do it by "feel" but I'll try to be more scientific about it. @noechamp, when you did your tank did you have to take the exhaust off? The less I have to remove the better. I'm thinking I will have to in order to get to the rear brakes. Also, do I have to flush the rear break line after the tank install? I can only imagine I will get an air bubble in it after disconnecting the brake line even if I don't accidentally push the rear break pedal.

I've only put about 1000 miles on it and I am SICK of looking at the fuel gauge every 5 minutes. I want to ride to Rochester from Buffalo but I'm mortified about running out of fuel. With this tank, I can make it to Rochester and back on one tank. I'll still refill before the return trip but this will make it SO much easier.

My bike has a non-stock seat. I have the original and I plan to re-install the stock seat as part of this project. In addition to having bags at some point, I like the idea of being able to strap something onto the back seat like you did on your trip out west. All these changes to my bike are taking away the sexy look (like the highway bars I just added) but it makes it more useful.
After the tank, going for the windscreen. I'm good at 60mph. But over that, I'm a freaking parachute fully opened. :)

I love you guys and all your comments and help.
 

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If I find anything, I'll post back here and let you know. My lines may be in perfect shape but even so, they are probably really old.
Say...another thing I've found is all the rubber grommets are rotted away too. For example the cover over the Maxi Fuse has rubber grommets to prevent rattling of the cover against the mounts. They are simply gone. I will probably make some molds and cast some with silicone. I'm sure there are other places on the bike where this has happened. Maybe I'll create a bunch of extras and sell them for 50 cents or something. I would bet others have already dealt with that. I'm not even going to think about asking HD if they have those parts. Ha.
All of those grommets you speak of can be had at the dealer. It's best to deal with the parts guys with actual part numbers. I got a spare set not long ago but it looks like they will never wear or rot out based on coming up to 8 years of use.
Ron
 

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Wingloader, with the pipes you have. You will have to remove the slip-ons completely. You will also have to loosen the nuts on the heads. As well as loosen the center section/3RD volume and move it back a inch and a half or so. I used a piece of wood and a hammer. All of this is so you can remove the swingarm pivot shaft. The flanged head on the shaft makes it a real PITA if you have the stock swoopy style pipes.
 

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The top dog parts guy quit at my H-D dealer, they actually lowered his hourly wage during the pandemic so he could keep his job but they wouldn't put his pay back up & they hired a newbie so he quit and went to an Amazon warehouse for a big raise. I hated to see him go but the dealers want low wages in lieu of experienced parts guys that know their shit but cost them more per hour - :cautious: if they actually knew how many parts they don't sell because their ding dong newbie parts guys can't find their own Ass with their stupid computer fingers maybe they'd keep experienced guys. Guess they figure it out eventually but then it's too late, the experienced guys have high tailed it. That leaves us, with the proper part numbers and a computer we can find anything we need, Wingloader if you don't yet use St. Charles or Ronnies H-D on line parts finders then google the numbers, you'll find it - we'll keep these bikes running as long as we need them ! Good Luck with tank install you can use a postal scale and a small nut driver with the rounded handle on the belt, nut driver on top of scale to get tension at a certain deflection on your belt or buy a gauge - even H-D sells them pretty cheap. (y) :cool:
 

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You can also use a socket laid on it's side taped on top of the scale as well - just put it under the belt with the socket going across the bottom of the belt, get a metal ruler scale next to the belt (or use the window in the belt guard if you have it ) and Voila' get the deflection required at the proper lbs of belt tension. Keep in mind that at least on my R model bike there's a tension deflection measured with the bike on the ground. Jacking the bike up the belt tension gets less so don't overtighten the belt it can destroy your transmission output bearing. Do it exactly like the manual, if it's correct on the ground when you jack it up check the setting then and return to that setting on the jack so when you lower it it'll be correct, not overtight. The belt is tightest when the fwd pulley, swingarm pivot and rear compensator ( axle ) bearing centerlines are all in alignment. It's looser in any other position, so don't overtighten it by accident - not good.
 

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I adjust the belt on my VROD the same way I've done all my Harleys. As long as there is 1/2 inch movement up and down on the belt. It will be fine. No tools needed. You will hear it when the belt is too tight.
 

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Belts better too loose than too tight I can tell you that for sure ! Quite a few V Rod tranny output bearings have failed due to the belt being adjusted too tight, it gets that way if you adjust it with the wheel hanging all the way down on the stand, shocks fully extended - it should be looser than measured when the bikes sitting on the floor with the shocks compressed a bit with the bikes weight on them. Yea, if you hear the belt whining don't ride it - that's when the belts trying to pull the transmission output bearing out of the case ! - 😳
 

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The external fuel lines don't go bad, the internal one, the plastic corrugated one that goes from the pump to the high pressure side filter canister they used cable ties to hold it against one of the tubes supports for the unit. Over time it wore a hole in it and gave me trouble starting reliably. I replaced it with a length of submersible fuel hose and two small worm gear hose clamps from the suto parts store. While there get a replacement sock suction side filter, Bosch 68015
 

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Belts better too loose than too tight I can tell you that for sure ! Quite a few V Rod tranny output bearings have failed due to the belt being adjusted too tight, it gets that way if you adjust it with the wheel hanging all the way down on the stand, shocks fully extended - it should be looser than measured when the bikes sitting on the floor with the shocks compressed a bit with the bikes weight on them. Yea, if you hear the belt whining don't ride it - that's when the belts trying to pull the transmission output bearing out of the case ! - 😳
V rod more then most bikes it's somewhat critical. Long aluminum swing arm , aluminum sprocket both expand or contract with temp changes, have a substantial effect in belt tension from a base line cold setting at say 70 degrees to even on a 120 degree Arizona cold setting day. Recently, I've been running 12mm @10lbs, set at 70-75 garage temp. After running for a few miles it shrinks easily to 6-8 mm. This is set with belt in the tightest area in rotation. The book value of 6-10mm has no mention of temp or loose or tight spot checks as a reference point and that 6mm is just plain stupid and a recipe for output bearing destruction as well as the comp bearing, possibly the left wheel bearing also. Too loose can be just as destructive with poor sprocket cog engagement in heavy loads, plus the risk of fuel tank contact in decel loads greatly increases. What I've learned is a simple belt adjustment, ain't so simple. Changing shocks to lower bike or anything that alters the swing arm angle effects tension. As you know, the R has the most travel and is the most fussy of them to set the belt tension just right. Let's just say, I would not trust a Dealer to get it right.
Ron
 
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