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hello, to balance the wheel do i have to remove the driven sprocket? I tried with it but I have to add a lot of lead to balance it out. I put 8 of 5g and my wheel is still not balanced ... do you have a solution?
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I've been using 3 ounces of balance beads in the rear tire of all my bikes for over 300,000 miles. 2 ounces in the front. Remove all weights, install beads, forget about it until it's time for another tire. I use them in my 40ft motorhome and in all my vehicles. Never once a problem, even with TPMS. Not for use with tubes.
 

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Tire shops do normally use to balance wheels without the pulley.
Running beads my self:

 
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First time I ever seen somebody try to balance a wheel with a sprocket attached. My question here is " how do you know what you are balancing?
To do what you're trying to do here, you would have to balance the wheel , and then balance the sprocket. On the track we have found that rear tires are not as critical and after a few laps both front and rear become unbalanced. So if you're looking got balance perfection,,,,,,,,,,,it's limited to , use.
 

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If you really want to static balance it remove pulley, be sure new tire is properly seated all the way around first and if excessive weight is still required deflate, rotate tire 180 degrees re-inflate and rebalance. Be sure when checking for heavy spot you ABSOLUTELY must tap on the stand to get the actual heavy spot on the bottom. Lube balancer bearings with a WD 40 light lube and repeat three or four times and exactly mark that heavy spot on the wheel, then turn the wheel 90 degrees with the heavy spot to your left and add weights by taping them to the wheel directly across the other side of the wheel on the right, do it until the wheel does not rotate, check the wheel for rotation by rotating 90 degrees and releasing, seeing if it stays still. If not add or subtract weight ONLY at the weight location and it'll be perfect. When applying the weights clean the area with alcohol or brake clean, and seal around weights with non corrosive RTV sealer to keep the weight adhesive sealed and weights attached, and share them equally on both sides of your disc wheel right at the spot you had them taped to. After applied recheck every 90 degrees for a quality check. I do this all the time on jet nose wheels that are much smaller and spin much faster than V Rod wheels and I can get them perfectly balanced by hand, but we use bolt on weights. Motorcycle wheels are easy, if you're that far along with it just do it Sanglier - (y):cool:
 

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Use Ride-On, it balances your tires and it helps seal any nails etc so you can make it to a repair shop. Btw- the tires last longer and no cupping.
I used Dyna-Beads before, but I use this now.
Link:

 
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I will bet anyone on this site $5000 that Ride on will NOT stop cupping. And will provide the bike to settle it. Cupping is not a result of balancing. It is the result of improper suspension or improper inflation, or both. No bike on Earth will cup the tires like a Goldwing. I have tried it all. The only thing that cured it was the proper suspension upgrade. Traxxion in my case. I have also seen Ride On come out in various sizes of what looked like Gumballs. I personally wouldn't use it in a lawnmower. But others experience will vary. I would also agree with Streetrodracer. If you have the time and the want to. Most motorcycle tires take very little weight if any, on a spin balancer.
 

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I will bet anyone on this site $5000 that Ride on will NOT stop cupping. And will provide the bike to settle it. Cupping is not a result of balancing. It is the result of improper suspension or improper inflation, or both. No bike on Earth will cup the tires like a Goldwing. I have tried it all. The only thing that cured it was the proper suspension upgrade. Traxxion in my case. I have also seen Ride On come out in various sizes of what looked like Gumballs. I personally wouldn't use it in a lawnmower. But others experience will vary. I would also agree with Streetrodracer. If you have the time and the want to. Most motorcycle tires take very little weight if any, on a spin balancer.
I havent used it yet.....................but if it's what they say it is, I might have to give it a go. The last thing I need is a front tire to lose air rapidly at 80mph.
 

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Sealing a tire that isn't leaking is like wiping your butt before you take a dump. If you have a puncture the size that will cause rapid deflation. Nothing you put inside the tire is going to stop it. That is why they invented Run-flat tires.
 

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I have to admit my first wife and I almost got killed on an early mid 1970's "inner tube in the wheels" Gold Wing due to sudden deflation of the front tire - it's a long story but a friend from up North got arrested in Daytona and left the bike with me, asked me to ride it and he'd come get it in the fall - the front tire inner tube had a green slime like sealer in it and coming home from the beach a Van pulled out in front of us and I used max front brake - the slime was between the tire and tube which loosened the tire on the rim - full front brake made the tire spin on the rime and yup, pulled the valve stem outta the tube - instant deflation, tire off wheel, headed left into oncoming traffic only when I threw a left foot to the pavement ( my dirt bike instincts came out ) and Voila' the tire flopped to the other side of the wheel and we coasted to the shoulder. She was pale white and NEVER got on another M/C - SO - I'm a bit skeptical about tire sealants as you can see - I'd rather keep the tire and wheel dry for max grip on the tire and have a TPMS that would alert me if I have a leak - at that point I have a M/C tire puncture seal kit I'll use it and ride carefully home knowing what's going on - rather than being blindsided by a sealant failure - And I hand static balance my wheels - But that's just me - (y) :cool:
 

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Sealing a tire that isn't leaking is like wiping your butt before you take a dump. If you have a puncture the size that will cause rapid deflation. Nothing you put inside the tire is going to stop it. That is why they invented Run-flat tires.
What about if the front loses air, but not rapidly and you dont realize it until its too late and the bars go into tank slap mode?
 

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I have to admit my wife I almost got killed mid 1970's but a friend up North got arrested in Daytona and left the bike, asked me to ride it and - a green slime coming home from the beach - the slime was between the tire and tube - headed left into oncoming traffic and Voila flopped to the other side. She was pale white - I'm a bit skeptical as you can see - I'd rather have a TPMS that would alert me if I have a leak - at that point I have a seal kit I'll use it and ride home knowing what's going on - rather than being blindsided by a sealant failure - And I hand static balance me - (y) :cool:
Fixed your post... ;)
 
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Thanks Knut - I think the newer sealants may be OK if the material just coats the tread area inside the tire and does not get into the bead seat area - but it would have to be a thick material that would semi set up to do that. That's my bitch about the old green slime & similar products, it gets everywhere and could loosen the tire on the wheel, not good for acceleration or braking where the tire must be firmly grasping the wheel - I've never seen run flat tires for M/C's but seems to be a real great idea - we got 'em on our MB and no spare tire so I assume they work well they are heavier though than a regular tire and don't ride as well and suspension is tuned just for run flats as well.
What about if the front loses air, but not rapidly and you don't realize it until its too late and the bars go into tank slap mode?
I'll say right here I know of a guy who went off the road on his M/C crashed in the median and died - they said he had a heart attack but he also had a front tire flat so was the flat the cause or the result of the accident ? Heart attack before or after the accident ? I'll bet there's lot's of single vehicle M/C accidents that no one witnessed that were the result of flat M/C tires. Guaranteed. Dead men can't talk. We need run flat M/C tires or sealant that stays only in the tread area IMHO. :cool:
 

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What about if the front loses air, but not rapidly and you dont realize it until its too late and the bars go into tank slap mode?
In that scenario. I would ask the rider why it took so long to figure out something is wrong. Maybe suggest a riders course. There are endless what-if scenarios. If thinking about tire pressure loss is a big concern for someone. A TPMS unit seems like a good investment for piece of mind.
 

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Does anyone know if anyone offers a retrofit stand alone TPMS system for M/C's ? If so I'm all in on that one ! My new Metzler Cruisetec rear tire picked up a long nail with only a couple hundred miles on it 😫 and I didn't notice it till a few days later when seen flat in the garage. I plugged it with a M/C brass tipped plug dart I carry on the bike and it worked perfect but I want to pull the wheel and put a patch inside asap so that'd be a great time for a TPMS sensor valve stem to be installed -
 

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Does anyone know if anyone offers a retrofit stand alone TPMS system for M/C's ? If so I'm all in on that one ! My new Metzler Cruisetec rear tire picked up a long nail with only a couple hundred miles on it 😫 and I didn't notice it till a few days later when seen flat in the garage. I plugged it with a M/C brass tipped plug dart I carry on the bike and it worked perfect but I want to pull the wheel and put a patch inside asap so that'd be a great time for a TPMS sensor valve stem to be installed -
Seems to be quite a few out there aimed at motorcycles, but they all seem to use the valve caps as opposed to changing the stem which gives a safer and more secure sensor.

 

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Very Interesting and certainly a solution coastrider - I'd prefer a new stem with the sensors inside the stem like a car and below the pressure valve vs a cap outside the pressure valve which in itself could possibly loosen or get hit and create a leak - not exactly sure how that cap is constructed but I'm assuming it must require removal of the valve in the stem or it depresses the valve to access the pressure in the tire and that bothers me a bit - I'm going to do some more research see if anyone else offers replacement stems but that ones a great start and good to know it's offered ! - I'm doing it one way or another it's crazy riding a bike sometimes at triple digit speeds and/or two up with no TPMS or self sealing tires. Don't want to give fate another chance of taking me out with deflating M/C tires. One of the retired pilots I know rode his M/C to the airport one day with both tires very visibly low - I pointed that out to him wondering why he didn't notice it or feel that riding and he said " Oh I never really check them - guess I should huh ? " some riders are just crazy stupid on safety - I check mine before every ride, but I still had one go flat after a ride, meaning it was losing air riding two up. I'm getting a TPMS. (y):cool:
 
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