Harley Davidson V-Rod Forum banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

Ride Free, Alex!!!
1,422 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
HOW TO: Installing HogPro Widened Swing Arm Kit, #1 of 7

Okay, you’ve decided to install a widened swing arm and a 240 wheel/tire on your V-Rod. Here are my experiences installing the kit from HogPro, with the hopes you learn from my SNAFU’s…nothing major, but time wasting, nonetheless. This “How To” is meant to explain the sequence of events, including some step-by-step process, but in no way can I foresee every possible problem you may face. Most of these procedures are documented in HD’s V-Rod Service Manual, but you’ll be using the widened swing that came with your kit, and other parts supplied with the kit from HogPro. This will not address any additional parts you may have decided to install along with your widened swing arm kit, including side mount license kits, LED turn signals, or front wheel & tire.

On a scale of 1-10, 1 being novice, and 10 being a factory trained HD Tech, I’d give this an 8. There’s a lot of work here, but it’s not real difficult…just a lot of steps to follow. Most of them are in the book, but there are some differences, obviously, since you’re installing non-OEM parts. And one, or two steps are just plain tricky…but, here’s the trick…!

HogPro Widened Swing Arm Kit, including…
Widened Swing Arm, Left side pivot spacer, Left side axle spacer, Longer top shock bolts, Longer bottom shock bolts, Top left side shock mount spacer, Longer pivot shaft, Longer rear axle, Offset front drive sprocket, Front sprocket cover spacers
Swing arm bearings and dust shields (if the widened swing arm doesn’t already have them installed)
Rear wheel bearings (if the new wheel doesn’t already have them installed)
Locktite Blue - for various fasteners
Locktite Anti-Seize – for axle nut faces, axles, etc.
Removable masking tape – to protect polished or chrome surfaces from scratches
Harley-Davidson V-Rod Shop Manual

Besides your normal array of shop tools…sockets, ratchets, open end and box end wrenches, hex bits, etc. You’ll need a couple of not-so-normal tools that you may not have on hand.
30mm socket – for swing arm retaining nut
14mm hex bit – for swing arm end
T-40 Torx bit – for rear brake rotor fasteners
Snap-Ring pliers – for axle retaining clip
Motorcycle/ATV Jack – ‘cause it’s a drag to try to do this without one!
Scissors jack, or automotive jack – for raising rear wheel into swing arm
Good Friend, or V-Rod Buddy – to help support new rear wheel and tire, and to bring you a beer when you need one



Ride Free, Alex!!!
1,422 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
HogPro Widened Swing Arm, Part #2 of 7

1. Jack and support bike with rear tire suspended off the ground. Make sure the bike is stable on your jack, or lift, as you’ll be pulling pretty hard on some fasteners.

2. Remove the mufflers. This is not mentioned in HD’s Service Manual, but it’s sure easier to get to everything else with these out of the way.

3. Remove rear wheel. This is according to the procedures in HD Service Manual. Save the right wheel/caliper spacer, the right axle adjustment cam, the axle retaining nut, and the retaining clip, as you’ll use these again with the new axle.

4. Carefully remove the rear caliper without breaking the line loose. Remove the rear brake lines from the retaining clips on the swing arm and secure both the caliper and brake line to the side of the bike so it won’t come in contact with the new swing arm, or anything else that it may damage, or may damage it. I carefully wrapped it in a clean shop towel and laid it on my motorcycle jack with the brake line hanging over the third volume.

5. Remove rear shocks. Again, according to the Service Manual. Save all the hardware.

6. Remove swing arm, according to procedures in HD Service Manual. You’ll need the 30mm socket for the retaining nut and the 14mm hex bit to hold the shaft stationary while you remove the nut. You may have to remove the third volume heat shield to withdraw the swing arm pivot shaft…I did. You could also simply loosen the third volume mounting clamps and press down on it while you’re withdrawing the pivot shaft. Save the pivot shaft retaining nut, as you’ll use it with the widened swing arm.

7. With the old swing arm removed, now is a good time to remove the old front pulley and install the new offset one that came with your kit. Remove the front sprocket drive cover from the left hand side of the engine. Remove the drive belt.

8. Remove three bolts securing the front drive sprocket from the output shaft. Place the transmission in gear, and using the appropriate size socket, break these three bolts loose and remove them. Grasping the pulley, turn it to the left or right until the three ears on the output shaft align with the cutout in the pulley and withdraw it from the shaft. Work slowly and carefully here, the pulley gets jammed easily on the ears.

9. Install the new pulley from the kit by reversing the above procedure. I had to use a rubber mallet to knock the new pulley loose, as it’s easy to get the pulley a little off center and jam it on the output shaft. Use restraint here and work slowly but deliberately. It goes on eventually, but it does get jammed easily if twisted one way or the other.

10. Apply Locktite Blue to the threads of the three bolts, and reinstall them into the output shaft to retain the new sprocket.


Ride Free, Alex!!!
1,422 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
HogPro Widened Swing Arm, Part #3 of 7

11. Remove the rubber hole plugs, rear brake line clips and screws, and upper and lower belt guard mounting grommets and bolts from the old swing arm.

12. Inspect the widened swing arm. Insure pivot bearings and dust shields are installed in their proper locations. If not, you’ll have to install them after purchasing them from your local MoCo dealer. Follow instructions in the HD Service Manual.

13. Re-install the rear brake line clips and rubber plugs you removed from the old swing arm on the new widened swing arm. Be sure and maintain proper orientation of the brake line clips, as they can be installed backwards and you won’t find out until you try to reattach the rear caliper to the new swing arm. (My mistake #1!)

14. Install the new swing arm on the bike. Insure the correct left side spacer is used. Use the original swing arm retaining nut removed in step #6, and the new pivot shaft supplied with the kit. Follow the instructions in the Service Manual, otherwise.

15. Remove the rear fender, according to procedures in the Service Manual. The seat, pillion, and alarm system have to be removed in this step.

16. Remove the outer rear fender being careful not to scratch it up. You’ll need to store this for a while, so find a place to put it that it will be safe and won’t get damaged.

17. Remove the inner fender braces and discard them. You will not have room for them with the larger tire under a stock fender. (My mistake #2! On my installation, I tried to just cut these off close to the mounting points, but this did not provide enough clearance for the tire when the shocks compress. Problem was I didn’t find out about this until I tried to re-install the shocks…meaning I had to take fender off again, and reassemble everything…cost at least an hour and a half! Learn from my mistakes!)

18. Remove the aluminum inner fender and cut the sides according the pattern shown in the photo. This will provide clearance for the tire as the shocks compress during normal riding. I took mine to a metal working shop where it was cut with a plasma cutter. I dressed the unfinished edges and repainted the inner fender to make it look more ‘factory’. It’s not visible unless someone looks up inside the rear fender after it’s installed, so it’s up to you. But, I chose to dress the edges and repaint it.

19. Remove the inner splash shield and cut the side ‘ears’ off. See the photo for this modification. I used an X-Acto knife to deeply score the inner edges of the splash shield, and then simply snapped off the ears with a pair of pliers. Worked nicely…

20. Reinstall the modified splash shield.



Ride Free, Alex!!!
1,422 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
HogPro Widened Swing Arm, Part #4 of 7

21. Reinstall the modified inner rear fender.

22. Reinstall the rear fender, alarm system, and both seat and pillion.

23. Check the rear wheel to insure bearings have been installed. If not, install them now, following procedures in the HD Service Manual.

24. If your tire is not mounted, install the tire on the wheel now. Follow the procedures in the manual, or have someone else install the tire. Be sure and maintain proper tire rotation if your tire has directional tread. It’s marked on the tire if it needs to be mounted directionally.

25. If the compensator bowl has not been installed on the new wheel, install it at this time following procedures in the HD Service Manual.

26. Remove the old sprocket from the old wheel by pulling it from the compensator assembly.

27. Remove the old compensator from the old compensator bowl. Inspect it for wear, etc, and replace it if necessary.

28. Following procedures in the book again, install the compensator in the new compensator bowl in the new rear wheel. Insure proper orientation is maintained, IE: “Pulley Side” is facing the pulley.

29. Install the supplied compensator bowl spacer in the new compensator bowl. If you are installing a new pulley, a new compensator spacer should be included and should be used.

30. Install the new pulley (or the old one, if appropriate) on the compensator, following procedures in the manual.


Ride Free, Alex!!!
1,422 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
HogPro Widened Swing Arm, Part #5 of 7

31. At this point, you should have the wheel ready to install in the new swing arm. The tire, compensator bowl, compensator, and pulley should be on the wheel, the compensator and spacer should be inside the compensator bowl, and wheel bearings installed. DO NOT INSTALL THE REAR BRAKE ROTOR AT THIS TIME!!! (My mistake #3…there’s not enough clearance to install the rear brake caliper and spacer with the brake rotor installed…see the trick below in step #35.)

32. You may need a second person for these next few steps. Using a suitable jack, or another person, carefully raise the rear wheel and insert it into the swing arm. Alternatively, you may also lower the bike onto the wheel, depending on your preference. Either way will work. But, either way you choose, BE CAREFUL NOT TO SCRATCH ANYTHING!

33. Loop the drive belt over the pulley on the left side of the wheel, and on the front drive sprocket, too. Insure proper routing of the belt.

34. Carefully insert the new axle into the left side of the swing arm. Squeeze the new left side axle spacer in next to the pulley, being careful not to damage the pulley. Working carefully, yet deliberately, continue pushing the new axle through the wheel and bearing until it’s just visible on the right side of the wheel…stop there, and proceed to the next step.

35. Here’s where the trick comes in… With the wheel supported by the scissors or automotive jack, and the axle just visible through the right side wheel bearing, carefully install the rear caliper to the swing arm. Tape, or tie the caliper in place so it will not fall into the wheel or swing arm during the next steps.

36. Once the caliper is installed, carefully slip the new brake rotor between the wheel and caliper, and temporarily retain it with a couple of fasteners. Do not tighten completely at this time.

37. Insert the original right side spacer between the wheel and caliper arm at this point. (See why you need that extra set of hands here?)

38. Continue pushing the axle through the wheel, right side spacer, and caliper arm until it extends through the right side of the swing arm. Once it does, install the original right side belt adjustment cam, axle nut, and retaining clip. Be sure and coat the axle nut flange with some anti-seize, as specified in the Service Manual.

39. Remove the jack, if used, from under the tire, or raise the bike, if you chose to lower it onto the wheel. Remove the tape, or tie downs from the rear caliper, and turn the wheel by hand to insure nothing is binding, and no interference is felt. If anything feels out-of-the-ordinary, STOP until the cause is found and rectified. You don’t want to damage a wheel, bearing, pulley or rotor. Continue to test until there is no resistance felt. If you’ve done everything right, the wheel should spin freely with little or no noise. Reinstall the rear line to the clips on the bottom of the swing arm at this point.

40. Once you are satisfied with rear wheel movement, install the remaining rear brake rotor fasteners using Locktite Blue on each one as specified in the Service Manual. Don’t forget to remove, Locktite, and remount the ones you temporarily installed in step #36.


Ride Free, Alex!!!
1,422 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
HogPro Widened Swing Arm, Part #6 of 7

41. Next, begin to re-install the shocks. Install the top mounting bolts first, on both sides. It’s very difficult to reach the T-nuts inside the rear fender with the larger tire in there. Insure you use the correct spacers and bolts supplied with your swing arm kit for the left top shock mount. This should be the largest spacer supplied in the kit, and should be labeled. Torque the mounting bolts according to the shop manual.

42. Take precautions to protect the swing arm during the next few steps. I covered mine with removable masking tape – similar to what I’ve seen done on TV’s “Orange County Choppers”, and “Build or Bust”. This works well…

43. Using the jack again, carefully raise the swing arm, wheel and tire assembly. Insure the shocks do not bind on the swing arm, but rather lay over them on the outside of the swing arm. Alternatively, you may also lower the bike onto the rear tire to accomplish the same results. But, be careful not to scratch the swing arm either way you choose!

44. With the swing arm raised, you can jockey the jack up or down to make installation of the lower shock mounting bolts easier. Install the right lower shock mounting bolt, spacers, and nut first. If you’re using Harley’s chrome rear axle covers, you’ll need to adjust the belt before tightening the lower shock mounting bolts, so temporarily install the mounting bolts until you complete belt adjustment in the next step.

45. Adjust the belt tension at this point, following procedures in the Service Manual. Some prefer to lower the bike before adjusting the belt tension, using the static weight of the bike to compress the shocks to their normal, unburdened position. The Service Manual does not specifically state which method to use, so use the one you prefer – unloaded, or static loaded. Either way, be sure and torque the rear axle nut as specified when you have completed the adjustment, and make one last check to make sure you installed the retaining clip.

46. Again, if you’re using the chrome axle covers, you’ll need to remove the lower shock mounting bolts, install the chrome covers, and re-install the right side bolt and spacers again. Don’t forget to Locktite the shock mounting nut to avoid any damage to the rear wheel should it back off.

47. If you’re not using a belt guard, you may skip to step #49, but if you are check the belt guard to see where you’ll need to modify it to fit around the wider tire. You’ll have to notch out the guard to make it fit. Obviously, chrome or painted metal guards are much more difficult to fit than the stock plastic one, so take appropriate actions at this time. When you’re satisfied with the fit, proceed. A picture of my modified upper belt guard is attached. If you look closely between the shock and the tire, you can just see the notch cut in the guard.

48. Fit the upper and lower (if used) belt guards to the front rubber mounting grommets. You should have removed these grommets from the old swing arm in step #11, and installed them on the new swing arm in step #13. (You DID do that, didn’t you?)

49. Bolt on the lower belt guard (if used).

50. Now, again jockeying the jack up or down to make installation of the left lower shock mounting bolt easier, insert the mounting bolt and spacers into the shock and through the rear swing arm. Be sure and capture the upper belt guard mounting tab on the shock bolt, if you’re using it. If you’re using Harley’s rear chrome rear axle cover, don’t forget it! Screw the nut on the end of the mounting bolt after applying Locktite to the threads. This is most important to avoid having the nut back off and come in contact with the spinning rear pulley where it can cause expensive damage in just a few hundred feet of travel. Locktite that nut…!



Ride Free, Alex!!!
1,422 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
HogPro Widened Swing Arm, Part #7 of 7

51. Reinstall the mufflers removed in step #2.

52. Reinstall the front sprocket cover, removed in step #7. New longer bolts and spacers are provided in the kit to space the cover away from the new sprocket.

53. At this point, you should have installed the new swing arm, new wheel and tire with the new rear pulley (if appropriate), reinstalled the shocks, installed the new front sprocket, reinstalled the front sprocket cover. Check your work out carefully. When you’re satisfied, lower the jack and remove the bike from the jack.

54. Reseat the rear brake pads by depressing the rear brake pedal several times. You must do this before you ride, or you will have NO rear brakes when you first apply them! Please don't ask how I know this. This could lead to an accident, which could cause serious injury or even death! Don’t forget this important step!

That’s it…you’re done! Now, take some pictures and post them for all your V-Rod Forums friends to see! I've attached some pictures of my '03 Anniversary edition with the HogPro widened swing arm installed, and a set of HogPro "6-Pack" wheels installed, so you can see the end product.

Oh…and clean up that mess you made in the shop!



1 - 7 of 7 Posts