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O-FNG
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
"How-To" install a Headwinds headlight:

Parts list used in my project:
- Headwinds housing (1-5800: 5 3/4" Concours Rocket, Smooth)
- Headwinds lamp / bulb (8-9504: 100/55W,12V High /Low Flat lens)
- Arlen Ness bottom mount bracket
- HD connectors
> 3 position socket
> 3 position receptacle (#73153-96BK)
> receptacle contact (female pin) (#73191-96)
> tab terminal (male pin) (#73190-96)
- Metal braided sleeving (1/4" and 3/4")
- Black shrink tube (3/8")
- Clear shrink tube (1/2" and 2")
- High grade electrical tape
- 4" black wire ties
- Wire (16 ga. black, yellow, white)
- Mounting hardware (3/8" rod, split washer, acorn nuts)
- A friend with an extra set of hands!!

Resources:
http://www.v-rodforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3169
http://cableorganizer.com/
http://www.headwinds.com
http://www.arlenness.com
 

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O-FNG
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321 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Step 1: Removal of stock light

- Cover the front fender with a mat or towel.
- Remove side cover and headlight.
- Remove both plugs from back of stock light.

Hint: place a white towel below the front portion of the bike for easy locating of fallen parts.
 

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O-FNG
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Step 2: Mounting Bracket

- Install mounting bracket
- Brake lines are an issue

The brake lines below the triple tree are directly in the way of the mounting bolts on the bracket. You can either remove the brake line, or gently move the brake line. I moved the brake line just enough to slide the bracket in, however I was only able to get 2 out of 3 mounting bolts in and tightened. Next time I do any brake service and need to bleed the lines, I will remove the brake line and add the 3rd bolt (however, it is very secure with 2 bolts)

Both Headwinds and Arlen Ness make a bottom mount bracket for the V-rod. I choose the Arlen Ness version because it has cutouts to match the triple tree.
 

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O-FNG
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Step 3: Extend new headlight wires

Headlight wiring (extend 3 wires on new headlight):
- solder splice each wire
- cover each splice
- cover all 3 wires with black shrink tube
- slide the metal braid over the wires
- cover the metal braid with clear shrink tube

I used an in-line solder splice, covered with commercial grade electrical tape, then a cover of shrink tube. Then cover all three wires with black shrink tube.

Hint: Slide the rubber strain relief boot into the light housing so you can fit the new harness into the housing, then slid the boot back into the hole.
 

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O-FNG
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Step 4: Prepare wires on bike

Bike Wiring Option 1: "T" off existing wiring

You can "skin" the wires on the bike, and solder pigtails wires to each. This will leave the existing wires in place for ease of going back to the stock light.

Bike Wiring Option 2: "4-wire connector"

Cut back the black tubing holding the wires. Cut the stock wires by the side cover, crimp on new pins, and put all 4 wires (2 grounds, hot for low beam, hot for high beam) into a 4-position connector. Then remove the stock headlight pigtails from their individual connectors, and re-insert into a 4-position connector (in essence making a Y-cable). You can use this Y-cable to easily plug into the bikes wires for use with the stock light if you want to put it back one.

Bike Wiring Option 3: "3-wire connector"

Cut back the black tubing holding the wires. Cut the stock wires by the side cover, crimp on new pins, and put 3 of the 4 wires (1 ground, hot for low beam, hot for high beam) into a 3-position connector (the ground is not important as to which one you use). Crimp on pins for the 3 wires coming from the headlight.

In the pictures, I used the 3-wire connector option. I can still make a Y-cable out of the stock headlight cables if I want to interchange (I will just have to put the grounds together into 1 pin).

Hint: Before you insert the pins into the second connector, fit the connectors together and make sure you have the right orientation to match the colors. It doesn't matter which position a certain color is in the connector, as long as the colors mate up.
 

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O-FNG
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Step 5: Mount the headlight

The mounting hardware (bolts that came with the light) is made for a bracket with threaded holes; the Arlen Ness bracket just has a pass-thru hole. I made the mounting hardware using 3/8" threaded rod, split washer, and acorn nuts. I had a local plater chrome the lock washers and nuts.

The light is a little loose on the bracket, but will tighten up with some effort. The mounting kit includes the metal strip for securing the wires below the clam shell.
 

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O-FNG
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Step 6: Covering the wires

I will post another "How-To" for covering the wires and cables with metal braid since is applies to more applications that just the headlight. Some people have used black split loom and like that look also. On the '04 with the black frame it looks good too.
 

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G'Day mate
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Jcolodny,

Thats a well written, well thought out "how too". Thanks for all the effort you went to - you should work for a bike mag!!

Great looking mod too!
 

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Looks fantastic! What's the performace like in comparison to the stock light?
 

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And without prying too much, are you able to supply a "rough" cost for the complete set up?
 

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O-FNG
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321 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ken...Total cost for the project was around $600.00 (don't consider it prying, I would have the same question).

Isobaric...The lamp / bulb setup is a little brighter than stock, but Headwinds offers a variety of choices.
 

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Looks great!!!

Nice writeup.

Thanks
 
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