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Tired of the crap
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There are a couple of tricks to getting at the battery.

First: Remove the maxi-fuse, which is located behind the left side cover. Its not very probable that you will accidentally start your bike while doing this procedure, but its always best to be safe.

Next you need to remove the airbox cover. After removing the outer skin, remove the IAT sensor (if you have one here..) and undo the clips that secure the top of the the airbox cover and remove it. Then unscrew the the clamp that holds the top of the filter cover in place.

After removing the top of the airbox cover and the filter element, take a look at the bottom of the airbox. There is a breather hose attached to the white element in the center of the airbox: carefully remove this. (There is another breather hose at the bottom of the airbox - you'll get to this one later...) There are two "velocity stacks": Note that they are actually different sizes, and are held in place with hex screws. There are index marks of each stack to help you line things up. There are also rubber O-rings at the bottom of each stack. Roll up the O-Rings, and then remove the hex-screws. You can then remove the velocity stacks. Remember that each velocity stack is different, and can only go back in one way. If you get it wrong, things won't fit right - so you may want to snap a Polaroid or digital picture to help you remember the way things were when it comes to putting things back together. You will probably need a fairly long shaft allen (metric hex) wrench or ratchet socket to remove and replace the hex screws.

If you take a look at the bottom of the airbox you will see the front breather hose. This is secured with a screw clamp. Take a medium size screwdriver, loosen it up, and remove the hose. You can now lift the airbox bottom off. You will then be presented with a scary-looking thin threaded rod sticking about 8" above the middle of the engine. Leave this alone, just don't let it poke your eye out...

The manual suggests covering the tops of the throttle bodies with duct tape. This is not a bad idea, even if you aren't doing major engine work, because you REALLY don't want junk falling down in there.

After you have got the airbox off you can now see the battery revealed in all its glory. The V-Rod battery sits in a box that is helpfully rubber lined - presumably to cut down on vibration and to protect the battery.

Before removing the battery, take a look at the way the battery cables are arranged - take another picture, or make a sketch, because you will want to have them the same way when reinstalling. You can then remove the battery cables from the terminals, always remove the negative terminal first - then the positive. Then you can can release the stretchy rubber strap from its tang holding the battery in place, and slide the battery out.

IMPORTANT: The first time I did this, when it came time to replace the battery I struggled with how to get the strap reinstalled, with the battery in place. After struggling for 20 minutes or so, I looked again in the manual, which gives an easy way of doing this: On top of the the battery box (near the junction of the left and right frame rails) are 2 airbox cover frame tabs. Attach the end of the battery strap to its tang, and then stretch the strap over these two tabs. You can then slide the battery back into place, and then pull the strap back onto the battery.

Reinstallation is pretty much the reverse of this process. I always put some dielectric grease on the battery terminals - it helps keep corrosion off the clamps. And install the positive cable before moving on to the negative. Make sure that the gasket at the bottom of the airbox fits over the pins correctly (it only goes one way...); and remove the tape you put over the throttle bodies. You will need to wiggle the bottom of the airbox to get it to line up with the bottom breather hose. Once you have pressed in in place, take that screwdriver, and tighten it up. Next reinstall the upper breather hose. Align the index marks at the bottom of the velocity stacks, and tighten them to 53 in/lbs. (A torque wrench helps here). Roll the O-ring back down so it rests on top of the screws. (I've heard that the reason the o-ring is there is prevent the velocity stack screws from coming loose - so don't forget them!)

Of all the operations listed here, the only one that caused me any trouble was reinstalling the battery strap - and that was because I didn't take the time to read the procedure in the manual. Good luck, and get that 'Rod rolling again!
 
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