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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can someone give steps to checking and adjusting TPS on a 2004 Vrod. Also if you can give pics of location and steps that would be great. Finally getting the Vrod running right and pretty sure it is out of spec. Thanks in advance

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matt blk & fire hot
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I didn't think there was one. Just a throttle plate adjustment.
unless you have a PC-III or PC-V

To sync a set of throttle bodies that have been adjusted you need a mercury manometer to measure the flow of each and you need either a race tuner or good dvm to measure the tps voltage to know when you have it right for the ecm. So you have both a mechanical setting and an electrical setting to get these back correct.
I have never seen a TPS read full voltage in normal use. It can be confusing. If you want to know what the tps is doing then use a dvm to measure the voltage from it. Typical TPS units run in the 0 to 5 volt range and should be about .5 volts at idle or close to that with a min and max value that it can use.

Loping at idle is not a tps issue, it is a vacuum issue and has a lot to do with a v-twin design engine and some lope is normal.
 

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matt blk & fire hot
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flashed ECM

I have the upgraded screamin eagle ecm but dont think it has a p3 or anything
see above update: post #3
test the TPS for in range volts.
the flash to the screamin eagle ecm would be for mods you have installed (and not removed) or a re-flash maybe called for.
 

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Pat (Patrick!)
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DVM: Digital Volt Meter. Prices vary, from cheap to not so cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Oh ok . I have one of those. But need to know location of tps and how to actually measure the volts. Doesbot have a red and black cable to make easy to hook dvm to it ? Ive read to dial tps in first and then linkage . Is that right ? Does front throttle need to be nearly shut closed and then test tps and begin to dial it in? Do you juat turn the tps to dial in or use the front throttle stop screw ?

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Oh ok . I have one of those. But need to know location of tps and how to actually measure the volts. Doesbot have a red and black cable to make easy to hook dvm to it ? Ive read to dial tps in first and then linkage . Is that right ? Does front throttle need to be nearly shut closed and then test tps and begin to dial it in? Do you juat turn the tps to dial in or use the front throttle stop screw ?

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The TPS is not adjustable. Holes the body of the TPS have to align with holes in the throttle body. The only consideration is that the throttle plates are closed when you install it.

You can measure input voltage from the ECM into the TPS, as well as measure TPS output voltage at closed and open throttle and observe voltage changing smoothly as the throttle is opened and closed. The TPS either works or it doesn't.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The TPS is not adjustable. Holes the body of the TPS have to align with holes in the throttle body. The only consideration is that the throttle plates are closed when you install it.
Isnt the butterfly supposed to be slightly off of the bore ? So if tps doesnt read right then does that mean it is damaged or that I simply need to adjust the front butterfly screw more in order to raise/lower the voltage reading ? Spec is .4 at idle right ?

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Oh ok . I have one of those. But need to know location of tps and how to actually measure the volts. Doesbot have a red and black cable to make easy to hook dvm to it ? Ive read to dial tps in first and then linkage . Is that right ? Does front throttle need to be nearly shut closed and then test tps and begin to dial it in? Do you juat turn the tps to dial in or use the front throttle stop screw ?

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TPS volts are critical to the tune and is adjustable.
Remove the airbox and you will see the tps on the shaft of the front throttle body. I use TTS or PV to actually view what the voltage is and have not done it manually on the v rod but have on several BT'S
Notice the plug on the tps. Remove it. There are 3 wires on it. I take a strand of copper wire (1.5") off of normal electrical wire and insert it into the outer GYN coloured wire of the plug, then plug the tps back in. This gives you he connection point while it's plugged in and the strand is so thin it all fits without damaging the seal. If you have the correct wire,*** with ignition on it will read likely between 0.40-0.50 and if you move the throttle it should end up at around 5 volts at full throttle. Meter wire on the strand and other to ground. Adjust the screw on the front throttle body to show 0.43-0.45 volts on your meter with throttle closed. Remove the jumper wire and reattach the tps plug. Done. Step one of tb sync. Carry on with that if you want to, since the front is now set and it's the master.
*** My colour is based off a 2013 manual.
This is also how you test the TPS. Look for the volts to climb nice and steady from 0.45 to close to 5 without jumping. Nice and smooth, it's good.
Ron
 

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Thanks alot man for the rundown. Will make it much easier. When you track down the color then please hit me up with it. I appreciate it

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Think I posted GYN for my bike. Code says Grey. On mine the other outer is black/white. It will be one of the outer wires in the plug if you don't have grey.. Center is 5v supply so not that one. You won't pooch anything if you choose the wrong outer wire. It won't give you the volt swing if wrong so you know it's the wrong one.
Keep the ignition off, any time the tps is unplugged or a code will appear.
Ron
 

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TPS volts are critical to the tune and is adjustable.
Remove the airbox and you will see the tps on the shaft of the front throttle body. I use TTS or PV to actually view what the voltage is and have not done it manually on the v rod but have on several BT'S
Notice the plug on the tps. Remove it. There are 3 wires on it. I take a strand of copper wire (1.5") off of normal electrical wire and insert it into the outer GYN coloured wire of the plug, then plug the tps back in. This gives you he connection point while it's plugged in and the strand is so thin it all fits without damaging the seal. If you have the correct wire,*** with ignition on it will read likely between 0.40-0.50 and if you move the throttle it should end up at around 5 volts at full throttle. Meter wire on the strand and other to ground. Adjust the screw on the front throttle body to show 0.43-0.45 volts on your meter with throttle closed. Remove the jumper wire and reattach the tps plug. Done. Step one of tb sync. Carry on with that if you want to, since the front is now set and it's the master.
*** My colour is based off a 2013 manual.
This is also how you test the TPS. Look for the volts to climb nice and steady from 0.45 to close to 5 without jumping. Nice and smooth, it's good.
Ron
You described how to test TPS output but there is no way to adjust it. It is either in the acceptable range or it is not.
 

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Isnt the butterfly supposed to be slightly off of the bore ? So if tps doesnt read right then does that mean it is damaged or that I simply need to adjust the front butterfly screw more in order to raise/lower the voltage reading ? Spec is .4 at idle right ?

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My manual states:

Notes

- Throttle must be closed for proper installation of throttle position sensor

- Throttle position sensor does not have to be adjusted.

The above is quoted directly from page 4-21 of my 2007 V-Rod Service Manual.
 

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My manual states:

Notes

- Throttle must be closed for proper installation of throttle position sensor

- Throttle position sensor does not have to be adjusted.

The above is quoted directly from page 4-21 of my 2007 V-Rod Service Manual.
I'll try and give my take on that. Closed throttle is so everything lines up for easy install. It still needs the tps volts set to spec after that. The statement (does not need to be adjusted) is because there's likely no slot in the screw hole area of the tps unit. Many tps units, the voltage is set via these slots after a prior setting of the blade opening seperately. BT harley a perfect example. In the case of the v rod, setting the voltage brings the throttle plate to within spec the same time. IAC takes care of idle speeds from there.
Ron
 

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matt blk & fire hot
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and your point is

It still needs the tps volts set to spec after that. The statement (does not need to be adjusted) is because there's likely no slot in the screw hole area of the tps unit. In the case of the v rod, setting the voltage brings the throttle plate to within spec the same time.
in other words: test the TPS output from closed through WOT. if it is within working range there is nothing to do. If it is out of range at closed, then someone screwed with the throttle plate setting screws, and it will require re-synchronizing plus an adjustment to get the throttle plate positioned to output the closed TPS in range volts.
which is a moot point as it almost never needs adjustment.
 

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in other words: test the TPS output from closed through WOT. if it is within working range there is nothing to do. If it is out of range at closed, then someone screwed with the throttle plate setting screws, and it will require re-synchronizing plus an adjustment to get the throttle plate positioned to output the closed TPS in range volts.
which is a moot point as it almost never needs adjustment.
That's how I see it. Brings up something I need to check on my bike. As you know if I drill and tap my heads for vacumn fittings it could void my warranty. I did a log on my bike when I first started tuning it with PV and got the tps volts. It was 0.45.
With all the recent threads on this stuff and studying exactly what effects what, it appears the roller bottom in the slot is the actual throttle stop and in effect the adjustment screw controls this area along with that setting the tps volts. Now , heres the kicker. It feels like just a touch of front blade sticking off of the stop. Very slight stick coming off the closed throttle position with the finger. I will varify if my tps volts has remained the same over 12000kms and report back. I bet it's changed. I'll report my findings soon.
Ron
 

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Checked the tps volts after 12000kms. Bike new it was 0.45.
Tested with TTS Datamaster and PV unit. Both still show 0.45 volts at 0 tps position. All good.
Ron
 

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matt blk & fire hot
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bore or plate

It feels like just a touch of front blade sticking off of the stop. Very slight stick coming off the closed throttle position with the finger.
can be a rough throttle bore casting or off center butterfly.
you can polish the bore, or re-center the plate.
 
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