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One more question-All the threads I have read say to use pin 3 in the ecm which should have a blue plug in it since it is no used. Pin 3 in my ecm is used-it has a black wire with a brown stripe in it. The unused plugs are number 1, 15, 16, 20 and 32 (these have the little blue plug in them). Do I just unplug the black and brown wire and plug in my green one? Or is there another place?

Bike is a 2012 DX-if that makes a difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
One more question-All the threads I have read say to use pin 3 in the ecm which should have a blue plug in it since it is no used. Pin 3 in my ecm is used-it has a black wire with a brown stripe in it. The unused plugs are number 1, 15, 16, 20 and 32 (these have the little blue plug in them). Do I just unplug the black and brown wire and plug in my green one? Or is there another place?

Bike is a 2012 DX-if that makes a difference.
#3 PIN should always be Tach output signal. I believe on the older models it uses a different port to get its factory RPM signal. Best thing you can do is get a service manual that has the wiring diagrams and look in the ignition circut #3 should be labled as Tach output signal. Otherwise you can go off the negative wire of the coil
 

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Discussion Starter #23
If #3 is labeled tach signal you can pull the pin connector out of the ECM. Cut the pin off and wrap the green wire around the existing wire and crimp on a new pin and reconnect

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If #3 is labeled tach signal you can pull the pin connector out of the ECM. Cut the pin off and wrap the green wire around the existing wire and crimp on a new pin and reconnect

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:them: this is recommended, adding a dab of solder would be the icing on the cake.
 

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VRSC gauge clusters are data bus driven. Typically, pin 3 on the ECM connector will be empty. Buy the pin from HD (I always get a couple just in case), crimp to the wire color of your choice, and insert into ECM connector.

Rick
 

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I ended up cutting the black and brown wire in terminal 3 and re crimping the shift light wire in with it. I am still not getting a good reading on the shift light. Anything above 4k on the v rod tach and the shift light reads 1920 and just holds there. Drop below 4k and the light reads somewhat close, but ultimately seems off. I tried all the settings on the shift light for cylinders and it does it with everyone. Any ideas? I think the connection at the terminal 3 port is not so good. Trying to fit both wires through that tiny hole was difficult and I feel like that could be part of the problem

Suggestions? Any better place to pick up the signal from?
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Did you make sure in the manual the #3 is a Tach signal port? If your sure make sure you got a good connection on the pin that its not getting interference. If all those things don't work your other option is tap into the Negative wire on one of the coils (doesn't matter which one) I can't remember what pulse setting you go on the light off the coil

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Honestly I did not double check on pin 3. My service manual is not here yet so I don't have anything to double check it. I was basing everything off of what i read on here as well as raptors instructions on their webpage. I know I need to figure out if pin 3 is really a tach signal or not. I put a call into raptor to ask them but I have not heard back yet. I guess I could call the dealer....
 

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rick at raptor is a one man show and he works a regular job too. so you might not hear back until later this evening or tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
uploadfromtaptalk1349297279234.jpg
Here is my ECM circuit. I am interested to know what HD decided to use for the #3 PIN. if your in a rush the dealership should be able to tell you what the circuit is

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Thanks for the pic. I put a call into the dealer but "guy I needed to talk to" was already gone for the day. Maybe tomorrow I will be able to get ahold of them.

I ended up just running it off the rear coil. I used the yellow/blue wire and the light works perfectly. I even re did the connection to the ecm before I tried the coil wire. The rear coil is very easy to get to and for my application, gives a much better reading.

So the light is up and running and I am happy. Thanks for troubleshooting and bouncing ideas around with me.

I did get ahold of Raptor today. He said he did not know what they would be using that pin for, but he said he would look into it. I told him no big deal, as by then I had wired it into the coil and I will most likely leave it there.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Thanks for the pic. I put a call into the dealer but "guy I needed to talk to" was already gone for the day. Maybe tomorrow I will be able to get ahold of them.

I ended up just running it off the rear coil. I used the yellow/blue wire and the light works perfectly. I even re did the connection to the ecm before I tried the coil wire. The rear coil is very easy to get to and for my application, gives a much better reading.

So the light is up and running and I am happy. Thanks for troubleshooting and bouncing ideas around with me.

I did get ahold of Raptor today. He said he did not know what they would be using that pin for, but he said he would look into it. I told him no big deal, as by then I had wired it into the coil and I will most likely leave it there.
Glad you got it working :D Let us know what you find out about the #3. Post a photo of your light :stilpoke:
 

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I will get some pics up of it tomorrow. I can tell you this much I absolutely love it though. So much better than trying to see the factory one. You sure won't miss the automated one when it lights up. It is very bright.

If anyone is looking to order one, check eBay. I picked mine up for about $125 shipped.


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Discussion Starter #35
Very nice :notworth: I have the same light BUT I had a Aluminum bracket made since the Autometer one had a big crack going through it, plus a new bracket moved it lower to the cluster. Ill get a photo of it up :D
 

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Yeah it would be nice to have it mounted a little closer to the cluster. my only complaint with the setup would be the mount. It seems pretty cheap. I do think it looks better painted black, bit that doesn't take away from the fact that it's still a plastic mount.


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Discussion Starter #37
uploadfromtaptalk1349459996583.jpg
Heres the solution to the plastic mount. And its set lower
If I get a few requests for them I could get them made at a lower price

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Questions:

1) If I wire the shift light to the same wires that go to the tach, it's supposed to work right?
2) did any of you guys had to program the light to make it work?
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Questions:

1) If I wire the shift light to the same wires that go to the tach, it's supposed to work right?
2) did any of you guys had to program the light to make it work?
Good question actually. I would think if you tapped into the wire going right to the tach I would think so, otherwise the #3 PIN on the ECM..OR.. The Negative wire on the coil of your choice.

2 - I believe the Autometer light I had to set to 1.5 pulse setting, i'll have to look in the instructions again but each light usually has a base setting for what your needs are
 
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