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Voluptuous 'V'
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Discussion Starter #1
Hello All V-rodders,

Once again I come to you for assistance... have patience

Stock 2003 VRSCA 65K miles: My bike starts up fine, my problem is while riding at lower speeds (15-35 mph), while holding the throttle steady, my engine feels like it has a slight surging/pulsing like the dreaded Fuel Flange scenario that I have read so much about. I believe I had this issue since buying the bike with only 3k miles on it and thinking it was normal but, lately it seams to be getting worse and more noticeable.

I looked in my tank and did see very fine mist while the engine was running and decided to take the fuel flange off and investigate. I did some research on our site and found the how-to 'Coffee Can' tool trick to remove the retaining ring. I did follow the directions and my layout of the tool template looked exactly like the photos on the 'how to' template. However, something didn't workout right and the tabs and can didn't match... low and behold I busted 4 out of 12 plastic tabs on the flange. :banghead: Anyone have any suggestions where to go from here? Also, when I remove the fuel module, how difficult is it to remove/replace the fuel filter(s) and what part numbers are they?

btw: My Fuel gauge reads good 99.9% of the time.

Thanks in advance,:notworth:
cboahd
 

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durata membro
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17,603 Posts
Maybe use a tool like a blunt chisel and try hammering it off.
Carefully cut it off.

Have you installed a test fuel pressure gauge and monitored it while the engine is running poor?
 

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129 Posts
Let me tell you, I have an 2002 and did everything to get rid of it and nothing worked until I had SERT installed an dyno'd.
 

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Born to be mild
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202 Posts
I agree with Al, check the fuel pressure first.
I bought a 'fuel injector tester' off of ebay for $14.90 and found that testing the pressure is very easy, much easier than I thought it would be.

I gave you details on this in a reply to the message you sent me.

Thanks,
Randy
 

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Voluptuous 'V'
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515 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Maybe use a tool like a blunt chisel and try hammering it off.
Carefully cut it off.

Have you installed a test fuel pressure gauge and monitored it while the engine is running poor?
ElrodontheV-Rod,

Engine is not really running poor. It is the very slight variation in speed at a slow riding speeds that is the issue. Like it wants to constantly either slightly speed up and/or slow down (slight surging). Should slow speeds (15-35 mph), in either 2nd or 3rd gear, with a steady/fixed position on the throttle act like this, or should the bike run at a constant speed/rpm wherever the throttle fixed position is at any speed or gear? At higher cruising speeds/gears, I do not notice this effect. Is this a problem or just the nature of the beast?

And to answer your question, no, I did not check a fuel pressure gauge. When I turned the ignition on I could hear the fuel pump run a few seconds and then turn off. If my Pressure was low, wouldn't the fuel pump run constant? or does the bike have to be running to check the pressure too?
 

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Is this occuring at or around 3000rpm? My 04 has never been "happy" at that spot and I've read the same from others here.
 

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durata membro
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17,603 Posts
Sounds like you are cruising at the most popular rpm range.This popular range is where the tune in the engine controller is tweaked lean and retarded to pass emission standards.
One of the best ways to get rid of this is to use a SERT and find a dyno technician that is willing to tweak the ecm.My 07 was originally tuned before winter.In the winter I noticed a slight dead spot at 2900 rpm's because of the oxygen dense air.It took an hour or better to smooth this out.
 

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Sounds like you are cruising at the most popular rpm range.This popular range is where the tune in the engine controller is tweaked lean and retarded to pass emission standards.
One of the best ways to get rid of this is to use a SERT and find a dyno technician that is willing to tweak the ecm.My 07 was originally tuned before winter.In the winter I noticed a slight dead spot at 2900 rpm's because of the oxygen dense air.It took an hour or better to smooth this out.
Where do you dyno at? I would like to get mine on a dyno sometime with a tuner that has some "knowledge" of the V Rod.
 

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Voluptuous 'V'
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515 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Sounds like you are cruising at the most popular rpm range.This popular range is where the tune in the engine controller is tweaked lean and retarded to pass emission standards.
One of the best ways to get rid of this is to use a SERT and find a dyno technician that is willing to tweak the ecm.My 07 was originally tuned before winter.In the winter I noticed a slight dead spot at 2900 rpm's because of the oxygen dense air.It took an hour or better to smooth this out.

Again, what is a SERT? Also, could the injectors be suspect?
 

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durata membro
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17,603 Posts
Where do you dyno at? I would like to get mine on a dyno sometime with a tuner that has some "knowledge" of the V Rod.
At the Harley dealer just off 39th and the interstate in Gville.
I havn't been there in a while,but they used to have some decent V-Rod mechanics and a good dyno guy.
Ask for Phil.I don't know if he still works there part time as a tech,but he used to and he owns an 03.He is also the shop foreman for the Mercedes dealer.
if he's not,they used to employ some techs that were pretty literate and like the V-Rod.
A private person to check w is Dr.Dodge.He's a member here,and might be able to help you.He owns an SE and went through a lot to get his tuned correctly.Mark is his real name,and he is the shop foreman over at the Dodge-Chrysler dealer on Main st.
Marks last name is the same as yours.

If none of this pans out,go to Ocala Harley.This is where I go.
 

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At the Harley dealer just off 39th and the interstate in Gville.
I havn't been there in a while,but they used to have some decent V-Rod mechanics and a good dyno guy.
Ask for Phil.I don't know if he still works there part time as a tech,but he used to and he owns an 03.He is also the shop foreman for the Mercedes dealer.
if he's not,they used to employ some techs that were pretty literate and like the V-Rod.
A private person to check w is Dr.Dodge.He's a member here,and might be able to help you.He owns an SE and went through a lot to get his tuned correctly.Mark is his real name,and he is the shop foreman over at the Dodge-Chrysler dealer on Main st.
Marks last name is the same as yours.

If none of this pans out,go to Ocala Harley.This is where I go.
Thanks

Gainesville Harley is where I bought my V back in '03.
 

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Buy American!
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3,960 Posts
Where do you dyno at? I would like to get mine on a dyno sometime with a tuner that has some "knowledge" of the V Rod.
I just had mine dyno-tuned by Rick Swaim of Cycle and Ski Concepts, Middleburg, FL. My bike went from 112 hp/ 76 ft-lbs torque dyno-tune by the Harley dealership to a much smoother 118 hp/ 80 ft-lbs torque dyno-tune by Rick. The Harley dealership tuned it to a nearly-perfect and flat 14.0:1 A/F. Rick tuned it to a nearly perfect and flat 13.5:1 A/F. He tunes it at WOT and at several throttle positions and rpm points. He knows V-Rods because he has one (a beautiful all-chrome 2002 show bike).

I cannot emphasize enough how much better my bike runs now than it did before he tuned it! Its as if the entire HP and Torque graph was moved north by 6 HP and 4 ft-lbs. Six horsepower at the peak is impressive enough, but gains of 6 HP at 3000, 4000, 5000, 6000, 7000, and 8000 RPM is significant. My bike will now spin the rear tire throughout first gear with throttle only. It feels stronger and smoother throughout the range as it should have from the factory.

But just as significant is the difference in the smoothness. Before Rick tuned it I could make out that there was a car in my mirror, but could not identify it for the blurries. Now my mirrors are rock solid at almost all speeds (I won't say all because I haven't had the time...).

Call him at (904)219-1974. Tell him I sent you. You won't regret it.
 

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I just had mine dyno-tuned by Rick Swaim of Cycle and Ski Concepts, Middleburg, FL. My bike went from 112 hp/ 76 ft-lbs torque dyno-tune by the Harley dealership to a much smoother 118 hp/ 80 ft-lbs torque dyno-tune by Rick. The Harley dealership tuned it to a nearly-perfect and flat 14.0:1 A/F. Rick tuned it to a nearly perfect and flat 13.5:1 A/F. He tunes it at WOT and at several throttle positions and rpm points. He knows V-Rods because he has one (a beautiful all-chrome 2002 show bike).

I cannot emphasize enough how much better my bike runs now than it did before he tuned it! Its as if the entire HP and Torque graph was moved north by 6 HP and 4 ft-lbs. Six horsepower at the peak is impressive enough, but gains of 6 HP at 3000, 4000, 5000, 6000, 7000, and 8000 RPM is significant. My bike will now spin the rear tire throughout first gear with throttle only. It feels stronger and smoother throughout the range as it should have from the factory.

But just as significant is the difference in the smoothness. Before Rick tuned it I could make out that there was a car in my mirror, but could not identify it for the blurries. Now my mirrors are rock solid at almost all speeds (I won't say all because I haven't had the time...).

Call him at (904)219-1974. Tell him I sent you. You won't regret it.
Thanks Dr. Dave.

I actually have a house in Orange Park, but I stay in Gainesville at my fiances most of the time, so I use G'ville as my main address.

Is Rick located out on 218? If he is I know right where you are talking about.
 

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jwilson said:
Is Rick located out on 218? If he is I know right where you are talking about.
Nevermind!

Thanks for the link Dr. Dave. I see he is the shop on 218 I was thinking about.

He sounds like a guy I need to go see!:D
 

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Voluptuous 'V'
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515 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Found the culprit!

Finally got to removing my Fuel Module assembly from my Fuel Tank. Not knowing what to expect, and reading more than a few posts on this forum, I ordered the following parts to replace: Fuel Pressure & Suction Filters, Pump-to-Filter Hose, and Fuel Lock Ring. Long story short, I had to destroy the very stubborn fuel lock ring.
Amazingly, there was hardly any 'crud' on the Suction Filter (sock) and looked like some of the plastic was warn and degraded on the bottom side. The fuel gauge sending unit, which many here have heard about, had some staining and was cleaned with intake cleaner (ran out of brake cleaner) and a cloth. I hardly had any issues with the gas gauge malfunctioning but cleaned it anyway. A few of the black Ty-straps were loose so, I tightened them and added one extra. The Pressure filter didn't have any 'crud' fall out when tipped up-side-down and tapped on pavement. Somewhat of a surprise, I notice a small pin hole on the Pump to Filter Hose. If you look carefully at the hose photo, which I moved slightly for a better camera view, the hose was being chaffed due to being in hard contact with a support rod and vibration? Hence....my hesitation/surging. Can't start her up and go for a spin due to fuel flange on order. Inadvertent damage was caused to the plastic fuel pressure line fitting and vapor fitting:banghead:....should be good to go in about a week.
 

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