[screaglerod]

This is on a 2006 VRSCSE2. I installed a sidemount license bracket and frame. I am trying to wire the lamp on the license frame. It's an LED light on the license frame. I have no other LED lamps on my bike at this time.

Under my seat, the group of wires that run into the rear fender are; purple, brown, red with yellow stripe, orange with white stripe, black, and 2 blue ones. I have a black and white wire coming from the sidemount license lamp.

I connected the black to black, and the white from the sidemount lamp to one of the 2 blue wires. I just spliced them in under the seat. As soon as I hook them together, my fuse blows for my headlamp and taillamp. Actually, now that I think about it, I don't think the fuse blew until I turned the ignition to "on". Signals and brake light still operate.

First, am I connecting to the correct wires to make the license lamp operate properly, and second, is it because it's an LED lamp that I am blowing the fuse? Is this where load equalizers come into play or something like that? If so, what do I need to get or do to get this to work properly?

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[collauto18]

LED's run with less ohms than regular bulbs so it takes less amps to light them. so the fact that its an LED rather than a bulb would not blow the fuse. as far as your wiring though, sorry i cannot help.

 

[stever975]

This is on a 2006 VRSCSE2. I installed a sidemount license bracket and frame. I am trying to wire the lamp on the license frame. It's an LED light on the license frame. I have no other LED lamps on my bike at this time.

Under my seat, the group of wires that run into the rear fender are; purple, brown, red with yellow stripe, orange with white stripe, black, and 2 blue ones. I have a black and white wire coming from the sidemount license lamp.

I connected the black to black, and the white from the sidemount lamp to one of the 2 blue wires. I just spliced them in under the seat. As soon as I hook them together, my fuse blows for my headlamp and taillamp. Actually, now that I think about it, I don't think the fuse blew until I turned the ignition to "on". Signals and brake light still operate.

First, am I connecting to the correct wires to make the license lamp operate properly, and second, is it because it's an LED lamp that I am blowing the fuse? Is this where load equalizers come into play or something like that? If so, what do I need to get or do to get this to work properly? ...

If the LED lamp is OK it shouldn't blow the fuse. I would double check your loose wires and make sure that neither blue wire is touching ground or a conductor on a black wire.

Concerning the wiring of the LED; did you get any instructions with the LED light? I would have guessed that black was ground, white was power and connected it up as you did but even if you connected it wrong it shouldn't blow a fuse it just wouldn't light up. The wires you mention are connected to circuits as follows:

• the purple wire is fed from the TSM/TSSM pin 5 (left turn signal)
• the brown wire is fed from the TSM/TSSM pin 6 (right turn signal)
• the red with yellow stripe wire is fed from the brake switch via the ACCY fuse
• the orange with white stripe wire is fed from the ACCY fuse
• the black wire is connected to ground
• the two blue wires are fed from the LIGHTS fuse

 

[VrodPete]

** Deleted ** I was fed some bad information.

 

[stever975]

Check the LED leads with an ohmmeter. In one direction you will see very low resistance ( a few ohms) and in the other a high resistance. You want to connect them up so that the current flows in the high resistance direction (connect + to the lead the ohmmeter + was connected to when you read high resistance). I have seen some LED setups where there is no protection for wiring reverse polarity, and if you do so it will blow the fuse.

Sorry but that doesn't make sense electrically.

First, an LED circuit for a 12 V system when tested with an ohm meter won't show two distinct ohms readings as you suggest unless the meter is designed for testing diodes. It's more likely to show about 3 Mohms (3,000,000 ohms) in one direction and about 1 Mohm in the other.

Second, the circuit should be hooked up in the lower ohm reading direction if you want it to light. An LED is a diode that passes current in one direction only and that's the lower resistance direction. There are details like not exceeding the PIV (peak inverse voltage) of the LED when hooking it up backwards but that's not going to happen with a 12 V circuit.

 

[Gumbysbuff]

I just installed the muscle illuminator extender on my 2005B .. It also has a black and white..
questions first..

Did yours come with a 2-pin connector?
If yes.. you need to pop the metal connectors out of the plastic connector.. mark the wires.. they should be in the 1 or 2 socket (they are labelled on the under side of the plastic connector)

There is a 3-wire connector connecting your 2-lights for your stock liscence plate..(I will get the colors later today for you)
All you have to do is remove the metal pins from the lights on the bike.. the ones in the 3-pin connector... just the ones coming from the liscence plate lights.. not the ones coming from the bike.. and that will give you a 3-pin connector for your 2 wires.

Put your pin 1 into pin 1 slot and your pin 2 into the pin 3 slot on the 3-pin connector. Now plug it into the 3-pin connector coming from your bike and you're good to go.

I'll go take pics and give you colors when it gets light out. }

 

[screaglerod]

Thanks everybody. It turned out to be an easy solution. I crushed the wires coming out of the license plate bracket and the + and - wires were touching inside. I just had to cut that section out and splice them back together. Problem solved.