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slave to the grind
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1,188 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
...or so I hope. I drained the oil and was putting the plug back in. It's not like I was torqueing on it and it just started to spin. Any help or advice?!?!?
 

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Ron Cooper
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1,809 Posts
You can send it to me and I will machine the face then tap for a new plug. When I bought my v-rod someone who done the last oil change cross threaded the plug so when It backed off it brought threads with it.

PM me and I'll send you an address if you want to go this route.
btw the oil pan can come off while on the bike easy to remove and you can use the gasket over I'll have it for about a day then back out to you.
 

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Premium Member
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11,333 Posts

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Registered
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399 Posts
You can obtain a self-tapping repair drain plug from any auto parts store. They work great and are easy to use. Take yours in to get the right size.
 

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EXCELSIOR
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8,459 Posts
This happens frequently if you're heavy handed.
The problem lies mainly with the drain plug. The wall thickness of the threaded area of the pan is not that thick. The plug has a thread relief (reduced diameter groove next to the flanged head) that is pretty wide. It means that actual thread engagement in the pan wall is not very much so it stips easily.
Many here have had this happen to them. It can be repaired by a machine/weld shop or have it tapped to a larger size and get a matching plug to fit.
Most auto parts stores can supply a wide variety of plugs of different thread pitches.
I believe the stock plug is 18 mm.
 

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Ron Cooper
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1,809 Posts
Do you remember which valve you ordered? There are several and all are SAE not metric which I believe the V-Rods drain plug would be.
mine was 19mm I'm not too sure stock size anymore I used to know but it's been a few years'
valve works great though
 

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slave to the grind
Joined
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1,188 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Thanx for all of the info. Any tips on getting the plug back out of the hole? I've dropped the oil pan and still can't get the plug out. It just spins and spins and spins... I can't even get it to back out enough to ge a screwdriver in behind it. Again, any help is appreciated.
 

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Ron Cooper
Joined
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1,809 Posts
Thanx for all of the info. Any tips on getting the plug back out of the hole? I've dropped the oil pan and still can't get the plug out. It just spins and spins and spins... I can't even get it to back out enough to ge a screwdriver in behind it. Again, any help is appreciated.
knock it out with a hammer and punch a few taps may get it to grab something
 

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EXCELSIOR
Joined
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8,459 Posts
Thanx for all of the info. Any tips on getting the plug back out of the hole? I've dropped the oil pan and still can't get the plug out. It just spins and spins and spins... I can't even get it to back out enough to ge a screwdriver in behind it. Again, any help is appreciated.
Yeah, that's the bitch. The few threads engaged with the plug deeper in strip and roll a burr over the remaining threads at the beginning and won't allow you to turn it out.
Since you need repair anyway, get the bike up vertical/level, put a large pan under it and remove the oil pan with the oil still in it.
It may be a little messy but if you have a decent sized pan under it to catch spill over it won't matter.
Good luck
 

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Premium Member
Joined
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11,333 Posts
This happens frequently if you're heavy handed.
The problem lies mainly with the drain plug. The wall thickness of the threaded area of the pan is not that thick. The plug has a thread relief (reduced diameter groove next to the flanged head) that is pretty wide. It means that actual thread engagement in the pan wall is not very much so it stips easily.
Many here have had this happen to them. It can be repaired by a machine/weld shop or have it tapped to a larger size and get a matching plug to fit.
Most auto parts stores can supply a wide variety of plugs of different thread pitches.
I believe the stock plug is 18 mm.
I purchased a new oil pan and drain plug. Installed pan on bike and screwed the drain plug in to finger tight then applied a torque wrench. Less that 1/16 turn the wrench clicked as being tight.

I suspect most guys without a torque wrench will tighten until it feels tight thereby stripping the oil pan threads. A couple of times doing this and you buy a new pan or get a self tapping new plug.

Use caution, and a torque wrench, when tightening this fragile plug.
 

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slave to the grind
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1,188 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Rusty, Thanks for the advice. How much did you end up paying for a new pan and plug?
 

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Sanctimonious
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44,118 Posts
THis happened to me, I bought one of those Rubber Replacement oil plugs at the Auto parts shop as a Fix while I waited for a new Pan I got online. The rubber plug worked fine, I got a Black pan which made me happy.
 

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# 12/50 Ignite LE
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2,913 Posts
THis happened to me, I bought one of those Rubber Replacement oil plugs at the Auto parts shop as a Fix while I waited for a new Pan I got online. The rubber plug worked fine, I got a Black pan which made me happy.
So now you have a matching oil pan and jiffy stand, oh and rear brake caliper?
 

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Sanctimonious
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44,118 Posts
So now you have a matching oil pan and jiffy stand, oh and rear brake caliper?
Yes and soon to be front Brake Lines Trying to rid the bike of the terrible gray bits. Too bad I cannot swap the frame out quickly and cheaply.
 

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Sanctimonious
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44,118 Posts
If you really want to go for something stronger, there's THIS. Expensive -- but I doubt you'd strip that sucker out again.
That thing is a Work Of Art and I would feel bad putting it on my bike where no one could see it.
 
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