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Diesel Smoke Tester
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862 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
:) Wow, have I improved my bikes take off performance??!!

Since the first day of ownership, I've felt that the clutch slips a bit when shifts are made while acceleating hard:confused:

I've read all the posts about guys spending money on Barnett and Scorpion hi-pro units to replace their originals (many with only a few thousand miles on em) This never seemed right to me; my '92 Softail with about 80+ lbsft of torque on a bigger motor (in a 725lb chassis) had an almost perfect set of plates on it when I thought it was time to change them at .....60,000 miles. And I'd done lots of burn outs and jack rabbit starts over those many miles. Anyway.......

I took off the hydrulic clutch pak on the slave side yesterday....to study the situation....... and; just like I always thought.........no free play at all when the motor is hot!! I thought about really getting into it, machining about .030 or more off the actuating button on the slave cyl; but it would involve taking apart the slave cyl...and risking a leaking (worse) problem.

Instead; I put (3) 10mm (small O.D.) flat washers of .035 inch thicknes around the (3) screws that mount the slave into the clutch assy. (on the inside of the slave). This gave the slave enough clearance (free-play) to let the clutch do the job it is supposed to do in the first place! Even when fully warmed up,
I can feel a little play at the master cyl lever before it starts to engage. And the best part......no more slipping ....even when banging shifts at 6k or so. It really grabs well now. I think there was actually some pressure on the release brng without pulling on the lever when the parts had swollen up with heat. (Bad)

The rubber "O" ring that seals in the engine oil still goes in plenty far to prevent any leakage, and the decrorative chrome cover goes back on with no clearance problems.

I hope this might save someone a bunch of money and/or headaches involved with this frustrating problem. good luck:
 

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Color me Gone
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27,333 Posts
Sounds like something work a look for those that may have clutch problems. It might also explain why some have had premature clutch failures. Thanks for the information.

Max
 

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SNAFU
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13,094 Posts
This one might be worth calling HD on and starting a dialogue with an engineer. I remember someone saying they had a contact at the moco, we need some numbers ;)
 

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Fries with that?
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1,541 Posts
John solved our clutch-slipping problems by replacing the springs with "beefier" ones and adding spacers, too.
 

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Premium Member
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7,727 Posts
Interesting

This may solve a question that I have had.

When I had my bike up on the lift for an oil change I fired it up and was messing around when I noticed that in any gear with the clutch pulled in all the way the wheel would spin. I had my wife hold clutch and put in gear while I was holding tire and it grabbed so much there was no way I could hold it. When in neutral this does not happen so it has to be clutch.

Also, if I hold in the clutch long enough and watch the speedo it will get up to the same speed as when I release the clutch. Only tried in first gear.

Could this fix solve my problem?

Ken
 

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Diesel Smoke Tester
Joined
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862 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Youngster;
More "free-play" actually would probably make your situation worse. The less free-play, the more the clutch plates disengage and spin more freely......."unhooking" your connection to the drive wheel. My problem was the opposite. The slightest squeeze on the clutch lever started the "slipping" problem.....and the lack of free-play was causing the "slippage" when I let it out after each up shift. It is pretty normal to have the rear wheel still turn while up off the ground....even with the cluth pulled "in". But if it is really bad then there is something wrong. The clutch should start grabbing and moving the vehicle forward just before the "half way out" point at the handle bar lever.
Check it out. Good luck. redrazor
 
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