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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

So I noticed the steering became notchy and I figured the head bearings are shot. I took the triple tree apart and surprise, surprise the neck was almost dry and head had some grease on the bearings.... do you think I should just re-grease or replace?




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Won't be easy but yes, replace of course ! That's all junk - races & bearings are shot -mine are probably the same way got it up on the lift now one of many Mx items I gotta do before bike week - H-D didn't " Pack " the bearings properly as was shown by Knut J - they probably just passed a finger with grease over the bearings and races - if all the voids aren't packed there are air gaps, condensation forms and you guessed it - RUST & CORROSION are the result ! Use a waterproof high tack, high load anti-corrosion type grease, Black Molybendum Disulfate comes to mind or H-D special purpose grease P/N H-D 99857-97 if you want more of what they used - don't forget to do the proper fall away adjustment and torque on stem nut per the Mx manual or you may get the dreaded clunk from looseness or tight binding steering from being over tight - then recheck in a few thousand miles after everything has settled in. Good Luck ! I'll be doing the same thing - big fun ! :D (y)
 

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Yeh that’s some pitting all right, they are junk. You will have to use a drift/punch to knock out the old races and tap the new ones in. Also... there’s a part number on the old bearing- take that to your local auto perts store- they can match it for a lot less than HD
 

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Discussion Starter #7
All done... all better now...





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Nice. How did you get the old races out? Easy or?
Would depend on the tools at hand. I bought the Tusk expandable collet for the task. It should take that pain in the ass task into something enjoyable. Almost. LOL
Ron
 

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Would depend on the tools at hand. I bought the Tusk expandable collet for the task. It should take that pain in the ass task into something enjoyable. Almost. LOL
Ron
Used to repair a lot of automotive transmissions and used those a lot for blind hole bearings with great success. They work well.
 

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Thank you guys. Any part number Tusk collet?
Have so so experience with Georges Garage race remover tool...(read pita).
You want the 40mm size. Slide hammer is optional. You can use a piece of pipe on the opposite end and tap it out.
This one, I would loan out and not care if it ever came back. This one, I don't care for.
Ron
 

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You want the 40mm size. Slide hammer is optional. You can use a piece of pipe on the opposite end and tap it out.
This one, I would loan out and not care if it ever came back. This one, I don't care for.
Ron
No, totally agree. The force is just not applied in the correct place with that design.(wouldn't borrow that one!! LOL 🤣 )
 

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No, totally agree. The force is just not applied in the correct place with that design.(wouldn't borrow that one!! LOL 🤣 )
Agree. The expansion area is in the wrong spot and weak. Silly me bought one and envisioned the frustration and a lot of four letter words once I played with it on the bench . Ordered the TUSK instead. Don't get me wrong, if there's a generous lip to grab onto the OTC will work. HD doesn't offer any lip. All there is is what radius is machined at the end of the cone insert. Just enough for the collet edge to latch onto.
Ron
 

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Agree. The expansion area is in the wrong spot and weak. Silly me bought one and envisioned the frustration and a lot of four letter words once I played with it on the bench . Ordered the TUSK instead. Don't get me wrong, if there's a generous lip to grab onto the OTC will work. HD doesn't offer any lip. All there is is what radius is machined at the end of the cone insert. Just enough for the collet edge to latch onto.
Ron
Yes, more suited to pulling out ball race bearings.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
You want the 40mm size. Slide hammer is optional. You can use a piece of pipe on the opposite end and tap it out.
This one, I would loan out and not care if it ever came back. This one, I don't care for.
Ron
I tried this tool and unfortunately it doesn’t work as the lip is way too thick. You can butcher the tool if you want to grind down the lip and it may work then..


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I tried this tool and unfortunately it doesn’t work as the lip is way too thick. You can butcher the tool if you want to grind down the lip and it may work then..


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Was it this specific brand or a lookalike? Many of the chinese made ones I have seen have that thick lip exactly as you describe.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Nice. How did you get the old races out? Easy or?
I used a chisel.. and butane... I turned the butane bottle upside down and froze the races, then used a chisel to wedge in-between the race to take it out... it slightly butchered the metal under the race but I flattened it out and painted with black paint before installing the new races. I froze the new races in deep freezer for a few days and they went in easy.


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Was it this specific brand or a lookalike? Many of the chinese made ones I have seen have that thick lip exactly as you describe.
It was a lookalike so perhaps they have different thickness of the lip....


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