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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
there was one for sale on E-Bay

https://www.ebay.com/itm/GENUINE-HARLEY-DAVIDSON-V-ROD-CHAIN-TENSIONER-GUIDE-PIN-R-R-HD-45312/283291603238?hash=item41f57ed126:g:ac4AAOSwqkRcCCaF:rk:48:pf:0

but if your going to make one I have one that the 5mm end was broken off and need a new rod. I can send you mine if you want, so you could replicate it.
Yes, I've seen them on Ebay. Not worth the money and the slide hammer isn't really needed. Made one up about 6" long with the correct threads in each end. Thanks for the offer though.
Ron
 

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Isn't that tool just for pulling out the retention pins in the case for the tensioner assy ? Could a couple longer bolts with the correct diameter & pitches that pecee mentioned do the trick if pulled on with a small vice grip Ron ? If so I'll go that route - I've got enough other engine prep projects to keep me busy. Ron have you used your hand made one yet how did it work and/or do you know how tight the pins are in there ? Thanks -
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Isn't that tool just for pulling out the retention pins in the case for the tensioner assy ? Could a couple longer bolts with the correct diameter & pitches that pecee mentioned do the trick if pulled on with a small vice grip Ron ? If so I'll go that route - I've got enough other engine prep projects to keep me busy. Ron have you used your hand made one yet how did it work and/or do you know how tight the pins are in there ? Thanks -
Haven't used it yet but the rebuild vid shows the slide part never being used. Pins are not pressed in so likely a bit of rotation and pull is all that's needed. I just made up a 1/2" bar about 5" long with the correct thread in each end. Jam nutted and called it good enough. Small, self contained pin grabber basically. Both bolts in one place. Yes plain old bolts will work but I like tools. The way I look at the factory tool is if you need to use the slider to pound the pin out, kiss the M5 bolt goodbye. Pin should not be that tight in the case, more like finger push. Taking out same deal, you just need a means to grab the end of it. Tool is on the left, ignore the other specialty tool.
Ron
 

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Show me the simplest procedure and someone builds an overbuilt tool for it -

Looks real good Ron, much better than the H-D tool and yea, I agree the pins, once locked with the jam nut on the tool should just pull out with maybe just a little rotation. Like many automotive (and even aircraft) Mx manuals they often call out tools that may make the job a little easier, but often are designed by someone in the tool company that's given the dictum of " Just make a friggin' tool for everything -we need to scare off anyone without one from performing their own Mx. or figuring this out and making their own tool " - " they will come to the Motor Co. Mothership for tooling and a jacka$$ mech. that doesn't know anything about how to work on a Revo to use it. Either way we make $ - charge them for our mistakes or our unnecessary tool, or both, whichever they choose." Geez, I'm kinda jaded just after Christmas, sorry about that, I'll do better after the New Year ? ! ( I do have many Revo tools that are necessary, useful and warranted, but hey - everyone has their tool purchase limit ) :blahblah: :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Looks real good Ron, much better than the H-D tool and yea, I agree the pins, once locked with the jam nut on the tool should just pull out with maybe just a little rotation. Like many automotive (and even aircraft) Mx manuals they often call out tools that may make the job a little easier, but often are designed by someone in the tool company that's given the dictum of " Just make a friggin' tool for everything -we need to scare off anyone without one from performing their own Mx. or figuring this out and making their own tool " - " they will come to the Motor Co. Mothership for tooling and a jacka$$ mech. that doesn't know anything about how to work on a Revo to use it. Either way we make $ - charge them for our mistakes or our unnecessary tool, or both, whichever they choose." Geez, I'm kinda jaded just after Christmas, sorry about that, I'll do better after the New Year ? ! ( I do have many Revo tools that are necessary, useful and warranted, but hey - everyone has their tool purchase limit ) :blahblah: :D
Some tools might be worth the cost but that one was a joke, price wise for what it is and over the top built for it's purpose. $50-75 all rusted up on ebay. I recently scored a like new tappet compression tool for $80. Rare as hell and something I consider a real tool . The secondary chain tensioner tool I have also was new and got that in a trade for a product I made. Neither really needed but damn, makes some tasks easier. I have 3 more tools coming and that's all I need or want for the v rod.
Ron
 

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Yea, Ron I agree about that tensioner pin tool, just crazy - you would think the guy would have at least cut the rust down with some WD40 for the ebay beauty show, so I skipped that one but I did buy 10 other tools from him. ( You beat me to his # 45331 output flange holder and # 45301 transmission retainer but I was able to get another # 45301 from ebay cali-picker in Grass Valley, CA. ) He also has quite a few Revo Tools left for those guys here that are looking to buy some. Yea, you got a deal on the tappet tool I paid another $ 100 for a new one a year ago. I'm still hunting the secondary chain tool - that's the holy grail of Revo tools but I've got access to one so I'll probably borrow it. The way I look at these tools is they are a luxury for working on the Revolution engine - no they are all not vital but they make the job easier, safer and more professional. Figuring out tool work-arounds takes lots of time and we just might damage something especially on high torque R & R using a half a$$ed method. At the price I paid for my R I'll toss $ 750 at tools just to make the job easier and more enjoyable. Less busted knuckles. Sellable later on too. :blahblah: :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yea, Ron I agree about that tensioner pin tool, just crazy - you would think the guy would have at least cut the rust down with some WD40 for the ebay beauty show, so I skipped that one but I did buy 10 other tools from him. ( You beat me to his # 45331 output flange holder and # 45301 transmission retainer but I was able to get another # 45301 from ebay cali-picker in Grass Valley, CA. ) He also has quite a few Revo Tools left for those guys here that are looking to buy some. Yea, you got a deal on the tappet tool I paid another $ 100 for a new one a year ago. I'm still hunting the secondary chain tool - that's the holy grail of Revo tools but I've got access to one so I'll probably borrow it. The way I look at these tools is they are a luxury for working on the Revolution engine - no they are all not vital but they make the job easier, safer and more professional. Figuring out tool work-arounds takes lots of time and we just might damage something especially on high torque R & R using a half a$$ed method. At the price I paid for my R I'll toss $ 750 at tools just to make the job easier and more enjoyable. Less busted knuckles. Sellable later on too. :blahblah: :D
So, you are the guy taking the other ones I looked at? Yes that rust cracked me up too. That and the price for what it is. Sorry to taking the locking tool but I grabbed it knowing this one can make life a lot easier. The tappet compression tool was a no brainer at that price also. The rest, I could make cheaper then buy, if needed at some point. Shipping and money difference plays a roll for me. I see someone grabbed the secondary tensioner tool at a good price ($50 ish), I think ,early on but I've had one for some time now as well as some spare shims. These shims can be made out of drill rod also as they don't need heat treatment unlike the cam shims. Speaking of professional , I don't want to be like this guy.
Almost made me puke. Clearly he has no specialty tools.
Ron
 

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Please let me know if you find another tappet compression tool, I have been looking for one for years.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Please let me know if you find another tappet compression tool, I have been looking for one for years.
Me too, as in looking for years. Damn near shit when I saw it on ebay and cheap too. Couldn't pass it up. Looks like it might have been used once only as you can barely see bolt head rub marks at the mounting holes.
Ron
 

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JJrod the dealers are getting desperate for sales of anything. When I got my tappet tool I bought it on 15% off Customer Appreciation day at my dealer, still $ 180 but hey I wouldn't want to make one myself probably have $ 750 in it for similar quality. Kent Moore they are now Bosch Tools is the Mfgr, just go to your dealer talk to the parts Mgr and sweet talk him into it if you really want one. Or wait for one to pop up on e bay - also do a want to buy here on the site if you haven't yet, they are out there.
Ron I'm just trying to figure out what exactly that "mechanic" is doing - trying to tighten the 3 "26 tooth" pulley bolts or loosen the drive spindle nut without a belt on the bike ? What a waste of video storage time. Enlighten me if able - I'm totally perplexed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
JJrod the dealers are getting desperate for sales of anything. When I got my tappet tool I bought it on 15% off Customer Appreciation day at my dealer, still $ 180 but hey I wouldn't want to make one myself probably have $ 750 in it for similar quality. Kent Moore they are now Bosch Tools is the Mfgr, just go to your dealer talk to the parts Mgr and sweet talk him into it if you really want one. Or wait for one to pop up on e bay - also do a want to buy here on the site if you haven't yet, they are out there.
Ron I'm just trying to figure out what exactly that "mechanic" is doing - trying to tighten the 3 "26 tooth" pulley bolts or loosen the drive spindle nut without a belt on the bike ? What a waste of video storage time. Enlighten me if able - I'm totally perplexed.
I think on that year the hub needs to be changed to use the 26 tooth. I think in 04 the hub finger dia changed for the 28-30 tooth. Hub fingers actually center the sprocket, not so much the bolts. Too correctly do both the hub nut and sprocket nuts a wrench should be used on the engine rotor hub. Sprocket bolts nut snugged up enough and the sprocket rattling around just shows slob at work, under the clock or just plain lack of tools to work on those bikes. Mind you impacts are used all the time, but I'd not do a vid on it to show lack of correct methods. The clutch hub nut, I'd make an exception there. Late model hub locking tools are scarcer then the compression tool at this point. Kent Moore is ok but not great. Take a close look at the base of the tool. Due to welding the pins in, it distorts the plate causing the outer edges to contact the head surface first. This can mark the head at the outer ends of the tool. I leveled mine after seeing this. Taping the head surface first works too, to prevent marking. Otherwise, good tool but not sure I'd buy one at the full price. To me, $80 was just right.
Ron
 

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Ron I bought a H-D clutch holding tool for the newer slipper clutch, but I know Jims makes a # 1674 for the '08 and up slipper bikes, # 1677 for '02-'07 and non slipper bikes for less $. I looked at my tappet tools, and the vertical pins on mine are not welded in, they are threaded in - the bosses at the ends are welded on but very little if any distortion. Maybe they updated their quality control but I put tape on them anyway, thanks for the heads up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Ron I bought a H-D clutch holding tool for the newer slipper clutch, but I know Jims makes a # 1674 for the '08 and up slipper bikes, # 1677 for '02-'07 and non slipper bikes for less $. I looked at my tappet tools, and the vertical pins on mine are not welded in, they are threaded in - the bosses at the ends are welded on but very little if any distortion. Maybe they updated their quality control but I put tape on them anyway, thanks for the heads up.
Bastard. I had my eye on that one. Next thing I know it's gone. Well enjoy the damn thing then. LOL
Likely welded pins is a later version. Quicker to do then tap the hole. Agree, threaded pins, there would be no distortion in the plate.
Ron
 

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Ha Ha ! that's very funny, but I didn't buy that clutch tool out from under you, Ron - I would have liked to pay you back for snatching the fwd pulley yoke holding tool I had my eye on and when I blinked you got it - but no, I got my clutch holding tool from my H-D shop well over a year ago. :) Jim's is a bit more available and less $ than the H-D Kent Moore / Bosch tool but either makes torquing the clutch up a piece of cake, highly recommended also to avoid transferring impact tool vibrations, and torque loads to transmission, crankshaft, balancer, etc. without it. That guy impacting the output shaft yoke might just have damaged something internal in their tranny, this is the crap that sometimes goes on behind the curtain when folks hand their bikes to less than ideal shops and mech's that don't have or will not use the proper tools. Kinda Scary.
 

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JJrod the dealers are getting desperate for sales of anything. When I got my tappet tool I bought it on 15% off Customer Appreciation day at my dealer, still $ 180 but hey I wouldn't want to make one myself probably have $ 750 in it for similar quality. Kent Moore they are now Bosch Tools is the Mfgr, just go to your dealer talk to the parts Mgr and sweet talk him into it if you really want one. Or wait for one to pop up on e bay - also do a want to buy here on the site if you haven't yet, they are out there.
Thanks for the leads,
I was able to acquire one through a dealer that was willing to sell me the tool. After a lot of no's from several dealers that use to sell to members in the past. I had almost given up pursuing it any further when this morning my phone rang and was a dealer that I sent a e-mail to, calling me back and was willing to sell me the tool.
One last piece to the puzzle (adjustable cam gears) and I'm ready to rock and roll on my project. Thanks everyone
 
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