I was trying to get ready for the AHDR in Woodburn, OR. My local dealer didn't have the time or the space to book me in for my mods, so I went to an independent who works on Harleys.
I had them install on my 04 "B" a Pingel Electric Shifter, Dyna Shift Minder and a two piece Kill switch (all from Pingel). In addition, I had them tone down my Rineharts by installing 1-3/4 Stealth Baffles from Bub, backed up with some 1-1/2 baffles the same length as the 1-3/4. The pipes sound really nice and aren't offensive now and probably have back pressure somewhere between stock and the Rineharts.
In addition to the above, I already had a PC III USB installed when I put on my Rineharts and a K&N Filter. My bike ran hard and fast before the new work.
The shop called me a told me everything was done. But when I picked up my ride, it didn't run right. It ran rough (crapping out) from 4 to 6,500. The shop did not remap the bike for the new baffles. I left my bike and told them to finish the job and remap for the new baffles.
I got another call saying they were done. This time all they did was return the map to the stock setting. This time when I rode my bike, it was fine up to 6,500 and then it started crapping out through the high range. When it warms up, it starts crapping out at 8,000. When I turn on the on / off switch, the shift light flashes and the engine light comes on for about five seconds.
Question: Shouldn't the shop that worked on my bike be able to run a diagnostic through the PC III and determine what map my bike needs, and download the proper map from PC III website? It's obvious to me that they don't know how to do it. They are blaming the new baffles. Shouldn't they be able to map my bike for the new baffles?
Should I take my bike to a shop that has a dyno? How do they program a custom map? As you can tell, I don’t know squat about mapping, etc.
All I know is this: my bike ran hard and fast before the work.
HELP!
I had them install on my 04 "B" a Pingel Electric Shifter, Dyna Shift Minder and a two piece Kill switch (all from Pingel). In addition, I had them tone down my Rineharts by installing 1-3/4 Stealth Baffles from Bub, backed up with some 1-1/2 baffles the same length as the 1-3/4. The pipes sound really nice and aren't offensive now and probably have back pressure somewhere between stock and the Rineharts.
In addition to the above, I already had a PC III USB installed when I put on my Rineharts and a K&N Filter. My bike ran hard and fast before the new work.
The shop called me a told me everything was done. But when I picked up my ride, it didn't run right. It ran rough (crapping out) from 4 to 6,500. The shop did not remap the bike for the new baffles. I left my bike and told them to finish the job and remap for the new baffles.
I got another call saying they were done. This time all they did was return the map to the stock setting. This time when I rode my bike, it was fine up to 6,500 and then it started crapping out through the high range. When it warms up, it starts crapping out at 8,000. When I turn on the on / off switch, the shift light flashes and the engine light comes on for about five seconds.
Question: Shouldn't the shop that worked on my bike be able to run a diagnostic through the PC III and determine what map my bike needs, and download the proper map from PC III website? It's obvious to me that they don't know how to do it. They are blaming the new baffles. Shouldn't they be able to map my bike for the new baffles?
Should I take my bike to a shop that has a dyno? How do they program a custom map? As you can tell, I don’t know squat about mapping, etc.
All I know is this: my bike ran hard and fast before the work.
HELP!
