When tightening that drain plug use the recommended torque value of 25.8 ft/lbs. The oil pan hole is real easy to strip. Not much metal in the oil pan to hold the plug.
After several years using a dealer for maintenance I decided to do it myself and discovered my oil pan hole for the drain plug was stripped and the plug wrapped with some type of goo to compensate for lack of threads.
I purchased a new oil pan and new drain plug. I found out if you finger tighten the plug you almost have the 25.8 ft/lbs. Just a 1/32 - 1/16 turn more at the most to secure.
Yes...that is true....I admit that I am, but I believe my 1/2 drive clicker torque wrench only does 5 ft. lb. increments. I have a 3/8 drive in. lb. as well...perhaps I can convert that one to cover it.
But seriously, theres a fine line between being anal and being realistic. I would bet most guys dont even use a torque wrench...I am normally fine leaving it "tight" by feel.
If it's leaking from the oil plug you either did not torque it sufficiently, you have stripped threads or debris on the threads is preventing it from sealing properly. V-Rods do not need a O-Ring for the oil plug.
Clean the plug and pan threads real well and go from there.
One thing about the drain plug threads is it's not a full length engagement. Not sure what I snug it to but pretty sure the manual spec is too high for repeated oil changes. All I know is the damn thing always seems to be tighter then what I thought I snugged it too. A good metal to metal contact when the oil film is squeezed out on tightening grabs pretty good after. Pretty sure I'm nowhere near the 25'lbs. More like 16-18, similar to what a spark plug would be. Over the years, I've found some areas in the torque specs to be too high on fasteners that see a lot of r&r especially with aluminum threads, so given the option in range, I will use the low end value or use what I feel is right, based on life experiences for things like this drain plug.
I was out riding, did about 100 miles, stopped for gas then proceeded home. Turned into my stare and heard a loud clunk and the bike died. It will not start, matter of fact it will not even turn over. The bike is a 2017 muscle. Not one problem before this. Any thoughts?
My 2003 needs valves adjusted and maybe some other things. Don't want to take it to my local dealers, would prefer to take it to a shop that knows these engines and will actually perform the work. Any recommendations within a an hour or so radius?
I bought a 2006 night rod a couple months back and it was running great. Decided to take off the oil pan, trans cover, alternator cover. Water pump cover, and have it all powder coated black. When I reinstalled everything after powder coat the bike starts and runs but won’t go over 4000 rpm...
i am new to Vrod ownership so bear with me
bike will crank & run approx 300 ft and quits
about 30 minutes before it will start again then the same results
i get DTC U1255 in the first section of manually pulling DTC
NO HISTORY Codes this bike has a TSM no security no fob
i took it to local...
Hi there, I'm an auto/diesel technician diagnosing a crank, no start on an 06 Vrod. I specialize in electrical/electronic diagnostics, but bikes are new to me.
The bike was on a trip, rider stopped for fuel and wouldn't restart, only cranks. Another technician looked at it and diagnosed an IAC...