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Fully Released Clutch Lever Stalls

6663 Views 27 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  TaxmanHog
I acquired a 2002 VRSCA last month that had fuel pump issues. Fixed the fuel issue but now I have the following:
Bike starts, idles and revs great. Perfect fuel pressure (53 +/- 2 when throttled). Put bike in gear, slowly release clutch lever to get moving but when the clutch lever is fully released the bike stalls. Doesn't stall due to load, just stalls like the "on" switch was turned off. If the clutch lever is slightly engaged (almost like riding the clutch) the bike will run perfectly. As soon as the clutch lever is fully released....it shuts off. Still have cluster lights when is shuts down. This bike does not have a kickstand switch nor does it have a clutch lever "starter lock-out micro switch. I have the wire schematics and looking at the neutral safety switch circuit, it is only used for indication purposes. Anybody have an idea of why my bike stalls once the clutch lever is fully released?
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I acquired a 2002 VRSCA last month that had fuel pump issues. Fixed the fuel issue but now I have the following:
Bike starts, idles and revs great. Perfect fuel pressure (53 +/- 2 when throttled). Put bike in gear, slowly release clutch lever to get moving but when the clutch lever is fully released the bike stalls. Doesn't stall due to load, just stalls like the "on" switch was turned off. If the clutch lever is slightly engaged (almost like riding the clutch) the bike will run perfectly. As soon as the clutch lever is fully released....it shuts off. Still have cluster lights when is shuts down. This bike does not have a kickstand switch nor does it have a clutch lever "starter lock-out mocro switch. I have the wire schematics and looking at the neutral safety switch circuit, it is only used for indication purposes. Anybody have an idea of why my bike stalls once the clutch lever is fully released?
You don't by chance have the brake switch on the clutch side. They operate opposite from each other.
Ron
You don't by chance have the brake switch on the clutch side. They operate opposite from each other.
Ron
The early models never had a switch fitted to the clutch lever.
I acquired a 2002 VRSCA last month that had fuel pump issues. Fixed the fuel issue but now I have the following:
Bike starts, idles and revs great. Perfect fuel pressure (53 +/- 2 when throttled). Put bike in gear, slowly release clutch lever to get moving but when the clutch lever is fully released the bike stalls. Doesn't stall due to load, just stalls like the "on" switch was turned off. If the clutch lever is slightly engaged (almost like riding the clutch) the bike will run perfectly. As soon as the clutch lever is fully released....it shuts off. Still have cluster lights when is shuts down. This bike does not have a kickstand switch nor does it have a clutch lever "starter lock-out mocro switch. I have the wire schematics and looking at the neutral safety switch circuit, it is only used for indication purposes. Anybody have an idea of why my bike stalls once the clutch lever is fully released?
Does this only happen when its in gear or is it the same in neutral also?
First thing I would try is Bleed the clutch actuator which is down by the clutch it is the same as my 03 first time mine needed it I though the clutch was going out now i bleed it every 2or3 years the fluid breaks down there .
The bike only shuts off when it's in gear. No problems when it's in neutral. I looked over the wire schematic for this bike and cannot see any circuit that would "interrupt" the ignition causing the bike to shut off. Especially coming from the left hand controls.
Since it seems the only way the bike will stay running/moving is to slightly ride the clutch I'm thinking it might have something to do with the clutch. Possible binding when the clutch is fully released. Not even sure if it has an original clutch in it. The only history I know of this bike it that it was stored inside and not run for a year or more. And has less than 20k on it.
I'm not sure if it pertains to this bike but I have read somewhere that if a clutch hub is put on too tight (e.g. with an impact wrench), and not torqued to the proper spec, it will have drag and possibly stall.
I plan to look at the clutch this weekend to see if there is anything obvious. I will also bleed the system (good time to change the fluid as well) and possibly solve this issue (but I'm not holding my breath).
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Clutch pack seized up????

Per Bob's advice, fully flush the clutch hydraulics, then test the release of the clutch.

While engine not running, engage 1st gear.
With clutch fully pulled in does the bike roll forward with little effort to break the residual friction, with out turning over the engine?
YES= Hydraulics are working well and the pack is releasing, now test with the engine running, hoping issues is resolved
NO= Hydraulics could still be suspect or the steels/frictions are bound, when was the last time the bike actually traveled the roads/track?
Clutch pack seized up????

Per Bob's advice, fully flush the clutch hydraulics, then test the release of the clutch.

While engine not running, engage 1st gear.
With clutch fully pulled in does the bike roll forward with little effort to break the residual friction, with out turning over the engine?
YES= Hydraulics are working well and the pack is releasing, now test with the engine running, hoping issues is resolved
NO= Hydraulics could still be suspect or the steels/frictions are bound, when was the last time the bike actually traveled the roads/track?
Don't think the clutch can be siezed and must be releasing as he can select 1st gear with the engine running. If the clutch was siezed or dragging badly the bike would jump and the engine stall instantly the moment you selected the gear.
Idle rpm to low?
Yeah. Doesn't surge with the bike running (idle RPM between 1k and 2k) and selecting first gear. The bike pushes freely with clutch pressed and in first gear with engine not running.
This weekend I'm also going to safely support the rear tire off the ground and try and run through the gears. Maybe this will shed some light on the issue.
Yeah. Doesn't surge with the bike running and selecting first gear. The bike pushes freely with clutch pressed and in first gear with engine not running.
This weekend I'm also going to safely support the rear tire off the ground and try and run through the gears. Maybe this will shed some light on the issue.
That was going to be my next question! Will it run if jacked up? Might also be worth pulling the front pulley cover off and make sure all looks ok in there. I may roll ok but maybe when it tries to drive something is locking. I take it that the bike does start to move as you let the clutch out, before it cuts out?
Don't think the clutch can be seized and must be releasing as he can select 1st gear with the engine running. If the clutch was seized or dragging badly the bike would jump and the engine stall instantly the moment you selected the gear.
Good call, I tunnel visioned right over that in the original post. :banghead:
Yes. The bike will move as the clutch is released and will continue to go as long as the clutch lever isn't released all the way out. As soon as the lever is completely released it cuts out. My brother rode it down the road at 15-20 mph (slightly riding the clutch). He didn't change gears because he figured it could cause him to have to lay the bike down or be slung off the bike. And cosmetically......this bike is nearly flawless.....wouldn't want that. Hopefully we will know more when we run the bike on a stand. Even though I've learned how all the moving parts work I'm still baffled with this issue. It's probably something simple (fingers crossed).
Yes. The bike will move as the clutch is released and will continue to go as long as the clutch lever isn't released all the way out. As soon as the lever is completely released it cuts out. My brother rode it down the road at 15-20 mph (slightly riding the clutch). He didn't change gears because he figured it could cause him to have to lay the bike down or be slung off the bike. And cosmetically......this bike is nearly flawless.....wouldn't want that. Hopefully we will know more when we run the bike on a stand. Even though I've learned how all the moving parts work I'm still baffled with this issue. It's probably something simple (fingers crossed).
It hasn't had the TSSM changed has it? Check the part no.
When I get home from work today I'll see if I can locate the module but if it had been changed I wouldn't know what the part number should be on this model. I believe this model doesn't have the security system (siren) part of it. It didn't come with a FOB (but doesn't mean it shouldn't have).
How would a different TSSM cause the issue I have? The bike starts and drives. Wouldn't an incorrect TSSM cause the bike to not start at all?
The unit is located under the passenger seat. PN 68920-01, if it has not been disturbed you should not have issues.

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche...RN%20SIGNAL%20MODULE%20W/%20IGNITION%20SWITCH

The TSSM has a layover cutoff switch in it, when the units orientation is changed from original mounting position to one that conflicts with the intended design, acceleration or deceleration could cause it to cut-out unexpectedly, guys who customized their rides discovered this issue and had to work around the design limitation, hopefully this is not the reason your experiencing problems.
Thanks TaxmanHog. I will check for the module tonight.
The TSSM has a large "Do Not Relocate this Unit " sticker on it.
And we all know that nobody would ever relocate that box after reading that right? Right? ?
If you ride it, shifting from 1st to any other gear, does it still stall?
My brother took the bike out yesterday. He started out in second gear so he wouldn't spin the tire like crazy when giving it more than normal throttle. He was able to let the clutch lever all the way out without the bike cutting out but he said you can clearly feel major drag (almost like pulling a heavy object behind you). He had to give it more than normal throttle to keep it from stalling.
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