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233 Posts
Ok..... Ive had 2 vrods one -'13DX and present '15F
Both have suffered the same malady. Fuel gauge. Empty one second, to slowly creep to proper level OR read proper level and suddenly drop to E. Yeah Yeah Yeah...... They ALL do that, go by trip meter...... whatever...... Its a MECHANICAL THING built by MAN.... therefore can be fixed by same. MY question would be to the ppl that ACCEPT going by the mileage is WHY?????? Are you truly that accepent of things that are supposed to work that dont that your willing to accept it? OR "just buy a new sender" MINE WORKS albeit sometimes. But they arent gonna make new forever, right? Theyve already discontinued countless things.
Ok THAT rant outta the way.............
Im a mechanical guy, bored to death, due to unforseeable circumstances in my life, and I cant ride for afew more weeks, so I tackeled what SHOULD be a relatively EASY cure. Fix my intermittently working fuel sending unit.
Took unit from tank. Disassembled. Theres a long white tube, roughly 3/4" ID with a "float" inside that floats on top of fuel level, obviously. Ive read that the top of this float becomes damaged from hitting what I call the sending unit at top of tank, thus making the float no longer flat on top. I found, on mine, that the top was not flat. but more "bubbly" in appearance. So, I Filed it flat with a fine mill file, then polished with a plastic buffer to a dUll mirror-like finish. I then connected sensor back up to bike, not in tank, but rather horizontally along side, so I could slide the float inside the tube hoping to see the fuel level change. This did not work, I got a reading on fuel gauge of roughly 5/8 full, no matter where the float was positioned inside the tube.
So, being the curious type, and a slight knowledge of electrical things, I looked at the wiring diagram. I determined the sensor has a 12VDC hot, that is hot whenever the keyswitch is on. The ground is tied in with afew other grounds. SOOOOOOO that leaves 1 other wire, that goes to the IM module (yellow / white wire). I then made myself a "test tube" that mocks the fuel cell on the bike out of 2"PVC pipe, with a cap on one end. Now, I cut all 3 wires from their connector so I can mess with them. Hooked the "hot" to a small 12V battery, and the ground on the sensor to the negative on the battery, and filled the tube with fuel. Now THIS is what puzzles me. Anywhere I want to position the fuel level, does not matter where, using my digital miltimeter, with black from meter connected to ground on battery, and red on meter going to yellow / white wire, I get 1.65 volts. No matter what. when it should read full, 1.65 volts, 1//2 full, 1.65 volts, or empty, 1.65 volts.
WHAT AM I MISSING HERE???????????
I could add pics, but dont see a point. I need an electrical guy, or instrument guy. This shouldnt be this difficult. Im missing something............
Both have suffered the same malady. Fuel gauge. Empty one second, to slowly creep to proper level OR read proper level and suddenly drop to E. Yeah Yeah Yeah...... They ALL do that, go by trip meter...... whatever...... Its a MECHANICAL THING built by MAN.... therefore can be fixed by same. MY question would be to the ppl that ACCEPT going by the mileage is WHY?????? Are you truly that accepent of things that are supposed to work that dont that your willing to accept it? OR "just buy a new sender" MINE WORKS albeit sometimes. But they arent gonna make new forever, right? Theyve already discontinued countless things.
Ok THAT rant outta the way.............
Im a mechanical guy, bored to death, due to unforseeable circumstances in my life, and I cant ride for afew more weeks, so I tackeled what SHOULD be a relatively EASY cure. Fix my intermittently working fuel sending unit.
Took unit from tank. Disassembled. Theres a long white tube, roughly 3/4" ID with a "float" inside that floats on top of fuel level, obviously. Ive read that the top of this float becomes damaged from hitting what I call the sending unit at top of tank, thus making the float no longer flat on top. I found, on mine, that the top was not flat. but more "bubbly" in appearance. So, I Filed it flat with a fine mill file, then polished with a plastic buffer to a dUll mirror-like finish. I then connected sensor back up to bike, not in tank, but rather horizontally along side, so I could slide the float inside the tube hoping to see the fuel level change. This did not work, I got a reading on fuel gauge of roughly 5/8 full, no matter where the float was positioned inside the tube.
So, being the curious type, and a slight knowledge of electrical things, I looked at the wiring diagram. I determined the sensor has a 12VDC hot, that is hot whenever the keyswitch is on. The ground is tied in with afew other grounds. SOOOOOOO that leaves 1 other wire, that goes to the IM module (yellow / white wire). I then made myself a "test tube" that mocks the fuel cell on the bike out of 2"PVC pipe, with a cap on one end. Now, I cut all 3 wires from their connector so I can mess with them. Hooked the "hot" to a small 12V battery, and the ground on the sensor to the negative on the battery, and filled the tube with fuel. Now THIS is what puzzles me. Anywhere I want to position the fuel level, does not matter where, using my digital miltimeter, with black from meter connected to ground on battery, and red on meter going to yellow / white wire, I get 1.65 volts. No matter what. when it should read full, 1.65 volts, 1//2 full, 1.65 volts, or empty, 1.65 volts.
WHAT AM I MISSING HERE???????????
I could add pics, but dont see a point. I need an electrical guy, or instrument guy. This shouldnt be this difficult. Im missing something............