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I have an 'O3 VRSCA/15k miles, and I noticed my flashers and fuel level indicator weren't lighting up in the cluster, so I then checked the lights. "No blinkers in front and rear!". However, the head and tail lamps are operational, and the running lights too. But the blinkers dont work, nor is the fuel level stem giving a reading. I am/was 2 weeks away from my first "Mecca" of a trip from the mid-west, out cross country to Cali. And now this. Can some one help a brotha "wind chaser" out with any ideas on what may be my problem? Thanks
 

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I have an 'O3 VRSCA/15k miles, and I noticed my flashers and fuel level indicator weren't lighting up in the cluster, so I then checked the lights. "No blinkers in front and rear!". However, the head and tail lamps are operational, and the running lights too. But the blinkers dont work, nor is the fuel level stem giving a reading. I am/was 2 weeks away from my first "Mecca" of a trip from the mid-west, out cross country to Cali. And now this. Can some one help a brotha "wind chaser" out with any ideas on what may be my problem? Thanks
Based on your symptoms, I'd guess you have a blown ACCY fuse. It's in the left fuse block (under the air box cover near the rider seat) upper left next to the START relay.

Common cause of a blown ACCY fuse is a short in the rear brake switch (behind the exhaust near the clutch cover).
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have an 'O3 VRSCA/15k miles, and I noticed my flashers and fuel level indicator weren't lighting up in the cluster, so I then checked the lights. "No blinkers in front and rear!". However, the head and tail lamps are operational, and the running lights too. But the blinkers dont work, nor is the fuel level stem giving a reading. I am/was 2 weeks away from my first "Mecca" of a trip from the mid-west, out cross country to Cali. And now this. Can some one help a brotha "wind chaser" out with any ideas on what may be my problem? Thanks
Based on your symptoms, I'd guess you have a blown ACCY fuse. It's in the left fuse block (under the air box cover near the rider seat) upper left next to the START relay.

Common cause of a blown ACCY fuse is a short in the rear brake switch (behind the exhaust near the clutch cover).
Thank you Sir. After you answered, I checked the fuses and the blown ACCY fuse you recommended was "exactly" the problem. 'Had a blown front right blinker I noticed after I replaced the fuse. Dont know if that was related to the blown ACCY, but I changed the bulb and all seems well
 

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My problem is almost exactly the same except add to that no brake lights from front or rear brake. If this is a short in rear brake switch, what would cause that? Is brake switch replacement necessary? Thanks.
 

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06BlackROd. Check and see if your brakes are in fact on all the time. This occurs when a brake light switch fails. Most often it is the rear switch causing the lights to be on all the time. This makes it to appear as if you have no brake lights when hitting the brakes.
'
Try disconnecting a connector to the rear brake light switch and see if things look better.
If that does not work disconnect the plug to the right controls and see what happens.
 

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It was the accy fuse which was blown because brake fluid had seeped out the end of the brake light switch and shorted out the connector. I have the connector unplugged now and can see the fluid drip from the bladed end of the switch. Cleaned the area and wrapped a rag around the frame and switch to avoid losing paint. New switch ordered from Dennis Kirk (Drag Specialties). All other lights and fuel guage work with new fuse.

Thanks for the help. No troubleshooting help in the service manual for this.
 

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I also need help with this issue. It is not the accessory fuse, a bad ground nor the brake light actuator as I have changed it. I have to stop the bike and keep turning the ignition switch back and forth until the gauge and signals do work. Even with that it may fail while I’m enroute. If I’m lucky it may start working again mid trip. I’ve watched these forums for many years now looking for the solution. The only thing I haven’t done was to change the ignition switch. BTW-my bike is an 07 VRSCDX that I’ve been riding for the past 14 years. I now have 90,000 miles.
 

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I also need help with this issue. It is not the accessory fuse, a bad ground nor the brake light actuator as I have changed it. I have to stop the bike and keep turning the ignition switch back and forth until the gauge and signals do work. Even with that it may fail while I’m enroute. If I’m lucky it may start working again mid trip. I’ve watched these forums for many years now looking for the solution. The only thing I haven’t done was to change the ignition switch. BTW-my bike is an 07 VRSCDX that I’ve been riding for the past 14 years. I now have 90,000 miles.
If the only thing you have not done is change the ignition switch, then it must be bad. It can be taken apart and cleaned out but you need to be very careful. There are three real small springs and U-shaped electrical connectors that will disappear in a real hurry if you are not careful.
Take it apart and clean it out real good before investing in a new one. Worth a shot.
 

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If the only thing you have not done is change the ignition switch, then it must be bad. It can be taken apart and cleaned out but you need to be very careful. There are three real small springs and U-shaped electrical connectors that will disappear in a real hurry if you are not careful.
Take it apart and clean it out real good before investing in a new one. Worth a shot.
Thanks Rusty. I was concerned that what you said would be the problem. Someone previously suggested taking apart the ignition switch and cleaning it but I was reluctant to for the exact reasons/cautions you shared. Is it safer and easier to install a new ignition switch myself or will I have the same problems with the tiny parts and springs. If so I guess I have to bite the bullet and have the shop do it.
Another question if I may ask, since Harley has stopped making the bike, are ignition switches hard to come by? Thanks in advance!
 

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The ignition switch is not hard to replace. A few screws and a couple of connectors and you are good to go.
HOWEVER. When you order a new one make sure you get keys to match the current keys on the bike. Dealer can special order keys to match existing locks.
 
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