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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Folks:

I know there have been several threads on this subject matter. So, I apologize if I am being redundant or have missed something.

I have been experiencing the same "klunk" that everyone speaks of. And, I'm sure all I need to do is a minor adjustment to the first (#2) nut under the chrome cap.

However, I have read the manual extensively on this this type of adjustment and have done some successful work of my own on the bike. But, I can't seem to grasp the "fall away" adjustment in terms of how to check for it.

My question is: do I need to really worry about this adjustment? And if so, can someone simplify how to check for the fall away. Additionally, what is the nut size?

Thanks in advance

-Dipper
 

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You need to get the bike up off the tires and level and stable, by using a bike lift. What your measuring is how much movement by hand from center, causes the fork assy to fall to the side. The manual calls to fashion a pointer pointing to the front edge of the fender, to measure in inches, whatever movement it takes for it to fall on its own momentum. Pointer is to be stationary. With fork centered, slowly push fork assembly to either side and note how many inches of movement it takes before fork falls on its own. You can tape a piece of cardboard with inch graduations to front of fender to measure from pointer. Check it both directions, left and right, they should be pretty close. What your actually checking in this procedure is the preload on the steering stem bearings, too much preload and fork movements become somewhat difficult at the handlebars(kind of sticky, sluggish), too little preload and you end up with the dreaded clunk which is actual slight movement of the steering stem when you hit a hard bump, or brake hard with the front brakes. To adjust the fall away or preload, you need to follow the manual, loosen upper triple tree pinch bolts, loosen the big nut which by the way is one and a half inch, and adjust the threaded, notched nut below upper triple tree, with a spanner wrench. Retighten everthing and check the fall away again. Big nut torque is now 50 lbs ft. You'll need an offset open end on a torque wrench, or I use a box end 1 1/2" wrench and tighten it appropriately by feel. Also need a thin spanner wrench to adjust notched nut below upper triple tree. If you have a clunk, chances are just tightening the big nut more will not remedy it, you need to properly adjust the bearing preload/fall away. Very common to hear the clunk on Vrods after 2-4k miles on them. Or just bring it to the dealer and have them adjust it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Polizzio:

Thanks for the detailed explanation. Very much appreciated. I think I understand now. I have the lift and all the tools. Maybe, I'll just take it to my dealer after all that. Got my 5K coming up and inspection anyway...

Thanks again

-Dipper
 

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Hi, I Just Want To Chime In On This Because I Just Got My Bike Back From My Dealer For The Fuel Tank Flange. When My Guy, The Top Mechanic At My Dealership Who's Bikes Just Won 1st And 2nd National Championship At Datona Thunder 200. After He Checked And Checked For The Sound We Are Describing, He Said It Was Coming From The Floatind Brake Rotar. I'm Not An Expert, I Still Hear The Sound But My Bike Handels Fine. Good Luck. Gotta Blast!
 

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Mine was clunking at 250 miles. Did a search for "clunk" and found this thread and another one on the clunk. Checked the torque on the upper nut. It was at about 45 ft-lbs. Tightened to 65 ft-lbs as recommended in the other thread and clunk is gone.
 

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curlysir said:
Mine was clunking at 250 miles. Did a search for "clunk" and found this thread and another one on the clunk. Checked the torque on the upper nut. It was at about 45 ft-lbs. Tightened to 65 ft-lbs as recommended in the other thread and clunk is gone.
My bike has the clunk too and also has a frontend vibration at highway speeds. Could this be related?
 
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