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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Well, you've swapped injectors, tested for spark, which takes care of two requirements. Low front cyl compression is the next step. Bad fuel will effect both, not just one cyl. Tight valve lash shows up as a compression loss on a cold engine only and your issue if I recall happened first when already riding and a hot engine so doubt that's the issue. A stuck valve would be a prime suspect however. Need to check for compression as the next test.
What's this stuck tb shaft you speak of. More detail needed on that.
Spark testing should be done with compression in play, not just in free air testing, to be sure it fires under load. I'm surprise you got a result in free air if that's what you did, as the system uses crank slowing (compression) to determine which cylinder gets the spark.
Ron
The stuck shaft I had was a result of part of my throttle body gasket getting stuck in between it, I made sure no extra pieces were broken off that could have fallen into the head and replaced the gasket with a new one. To test for spark, I pulled the spark plug out and attached the coil and grounded the coil so that it would spark just to see if it was sparking. I know its not exactly the best method of practice, but with limited tools and knowledge, it's what I could do. Sorry if I may not do things exactly the right way, I'm still learning and have a desire to learn as much as possible. At this point I'm waiting for my compression tester to come in so that I can give that a test.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
The stuck shaft I had was a result of part of my throttle body gasket getting stuck in between it, I made sure no extra pieces were broken off that could have fallen into the head and replaced the gasket with a new one. To test for spark, I pulled the spark plug out and attached the coil and grounded the coil so that it would spark just to see if it was sparking. I know its not exactly the best method of practice, but with limited tools and knowledge, it's what I could do. Sorry if I may not do things exactly the right way, I'm still learning and have a desire to learn as much as possible. At this point I'm waiting for my compression tester to come in so that I can give that a test.
Also, just to completely eliminate one issue out that I didn't think was the root cause, I drained the fuel and put in fresh, premium fuel. After doing so, there was no change but I decided to take it for a light cruise for a few miles. At low rpm's it runs relatively smooth but there still obviously a misfiring issue.... it will creep up to 5k rpm and after 5k, it will sputter pretty bad and occasionally back fire; I didn't push it passed that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Also, just to completely eliminate one issue out that I didn't think was the root cause, I drained the fuel and put in fresh, premium fuel. After doing so, there was no change but I decided to take it for a light cruise for a few miles. At low rpm's it runs relatively smooth but there still obviously a misfiring issue.... it will creep up to 5k rpm and after 5k, it will sputter pretty bad and occasionally back fire; I didn't push it passed that.
Just to add to this, I would clear the codes occasionally and each time after running, I would get codes: p0108, p0152, and p1353
 

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Well, you've swapped injectors, tested for spark, which takes care of two requirements. Low front cyl compression is the next step. Bad fuel will effect both, not just one cyl. Tight valve lash shows up as a compression loss on a cold engine only and your issue if I recall happened first when already riding and a hot engine so doubt that's the issue. A stuck valve would be a prime suspect however. Need to check for compression as the next test.
What's this stuck tb shaft you speak of. More detail needed on that.
Spark testing should be done with compression in play, not just in free air testing, to be sure it fires under load. I'm surprise you got a result in free air if that's what you did, as the system uses crank slowing (compression) to determine which cylinder gets the spark.
Ron
Add to that. Did u try swapping the coils to see if it moves from one cylinder to another?
 

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Just to add to this, I would clear the codes occasionally and each time after running, I would get codes: p0108, p0152, and p1353
Ok, this info is better. I ran into the same symptoms recently, P-0108, where the high MAP code was thrown and this bike ran exactly the same as your description. In that case it was caused from an intake leak. I believe it was throwing the no combustion code as well. The P0152 sensor code means it's running too rich. This can be from a high MAP secondary effect.
Three possibles are the intake boots, rear rubber plug on the throttle body missing and possible bad Map sensor.
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
R
Ok, this info is better. I ran into the same symptoms recently, P-0108, where the high MAP code was thrown and this bike ran exactly the same as your description. In that case it was caused from an intake leak. I believe it was throwing the no combustion code as well. The P0152 sensor code means it's running too rich. This can be from a high MAP secondary effect.
Three possibles are the intake boots, rear rubber plug on the throttle body missing and possible bad Map sensor.
Ron
Thanks Ron for all the help, I’ll take a look at my boots and that plug too see if they could be causing the issue, I’ll also order a new map sensor. Will check back in with any progress
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Ok, this info is better. I ran into the same symptoms recently, P-0108, where the high MAP code was thrown and this bike ran exactly the same as your description. In that case it was caused from an intake leak. I believe it was throwing the no combustion code as well. The P0152 sensor code means it's running too rich. This can be from a high MAP secondary effect.
Three possibles are the intake boots, rear rubber plug on the throttle body missing and possible bad Map sensor.
Ron
So my problems took a turn for the worse….. there seemed to be no issues with the boots and the rubber plug was in place so i replaced the map sensor. It seemed to run a little better at idle but still wasn’t at 100% so i decided to take it around the block. It was running the same exact way as before and maybe about 3/4mile in, at a low speed, the engine siezed up on me. Doesn’t crank over any more and the P0374 code has been added. I haven’t tried cranking it over by hand yet but I’m not hopefully and pretty sure it’s locked up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
So my problems took a turn for the worse….. there seemed to be no issues with the boots and the rubber plug was in place so i replaced the map sensor. It seemed to run a little better at idle but still wasn’t at 100% so i decided to take it around the block. It was running the same exact way as before and maybe about 3/4mile in, at a low speed, the engine siezed up on me. Doesn’t crank over any more and the P0374 code has been added. I haven’t tried cranking it over by hand yet but I’m not hopefully and pretty sure it’s locked up.
When trying to start it, it just clicks like it wants to start but the pistons aren’t moving.
 

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When trying to start it, it just clicks like it wants to start but the pistons aren’t moving.
Well that's not good. Just gonna have to break it down and see what happened. Was there an oil light before it finally quit. Or simply could be a starting issue. There is just so many things to look at. From that to actual engine problems.
 

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Odd it would throw a P0374 code. Assuming the turn over issue is something else like battery related, the CPS should be investigated. It can cause running issues but usually poor starting or not starting occurs first. Pull the alternator derby cover and try turning the engine via socket Counter Clockwise only. I doubt it seized. Have the bike upright, as on a jack rather then on the side stand or oil will spill out of the derby hole.
Ron
 
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