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Discussion Starter #1
First of hello everyone, I have been lurking for a while and as of 2 days ago am th proud new owner of a 06 D, now I love the bike to death (save for it being too quiet) but I have an issue under front wheel braking I get a hop (up and down not left right) and even the brake lever moves, the front tire looks like it has uneven wear and I hope that is the only reason but would that make the lever move too or am I looking a warped roters/bent wheel? Also one other question I did the baffel drill mod 8 5/16's holes per pipe and it sounds much better but on deceleration it cracks and pops quite a bit and that make me nervous, does that mean I over did it? I am a welder by trade so I figured if it ran like crap I could always fab up a new plate to cover the holes. It feels like it runs fine but I don't want to cause engine dammage just to get more sound...
Thanks for any help!
(Pics for clicks)




 

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Registered Idiot
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Welcome and nice bike. As far as the wobble, I would start with the tire, if it is obviously cupped then it needs replaced any way. Do not get the Dunlop.
Do the fallaway test and adjustment, this is the neck bearing/triple tree adjustment. Once these are done then see how feels, if you still have issues then I would look at rotors.
These bikes are tuned lean from the factory and benefit from a good dyno tune, even stock bikes. You could get the ecm reflashed by the dealer and that may be enough to for that muffler mod.
The best advice I have ever recieved from the forum, buy the service manual and learn how to do basic stuff to your bike.
 

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Pat (Patrick!)
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You should be able to drill 8, 1/2 '', holes without problems. I did 8 , 7/16 holes on my '04.
Check your front Rotors for true. There have been some instances of warping, but I thought it was with the '08's
 

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Welcome and nice bike. As far as the wobble, I would start with the tire, if it is obviously cupped then it needs replaced any way. Do not get the Dunlop.
Do the fallaway test and adjustment, this is the neck bearing/triple tree adjustment. Once these are done then see how feels, if you still have issues then I would look at rotors.
Can i get more info on this fallaway test please? Im thinkin my bike need this adjustment. When i hit bigger bumps i get a kind of clank noise and i swear its comeing from the goose neck and/or tripple trees. This has been something that bothers me but couldnt find much out on it, dont mean to steal your thread but caught my ettention when i heard theres an adjustment there

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Pat (Patrick!)
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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the input everyone, has anyone else had problems with poping (slight backfire?) With the baffles dril mod? Like I said I did 8 per pipe for a total of 16 should it have only been a total of 8 (4 per pipe)? It sounds great on the gas but as soon as I let off it starts poping. If a tune is what I need is the only route a tuner and dyno tune or can the ecu be changed at all without a tuner? Money is tight atm so not trying to spend big money. Infact I most likely will just weld it up tight again and deal with a quite bike till I have the funds to get a full system and tune.
 

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In talking to two dealers regarding tuning the bikes they are under orders from Harley to tune to factory specs only. Any changes to intake or exhaust probably will require a re-tune away from factory specs. This my dealers won't do so you may be stuck with buying an after market tuner and going to an independent tuner for problem resolution.

The popping and crackling you here is unspent gas being ignited in the exhaust. Not a big problem and does not cause any harm except to the ears. It can be tuned out by altering the Fuel/air ratio at the 0% throttle level.
 

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You can buy an aftermarket tuner or you can buy the Screaming Eagle Supertuner. An aftermarket tuner has to be wired into the bike, which implies splicing into the harness and finding someplace to hide the module. That is not always an easy thing to do.
With the Supertuner, you are reflashing the existing ECM. The module plugs into the bike's data port but does not stay on the bike when you ride. The dealer will sell you one, and you can buy a software CD, an instructional CD and a cable to connect the supertuner to your bike and to your computer at home.
Your dealer will probably know a good dyno tuner in your area able to re-map your ecm using the Supertuner.
 

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You can buy an aftermarket tuner or you can buy the Screaming Eagle Supertuner. An aftermarket tuner has to be wired into the bike, which implies splicing into the harness and finding someplace to hide the module. That is not always an easy thing to do.
With the Supertuner, you are reflashing the existing ECM. The module plugs into the bike's data port but does not stay on the bike when you ride. The dealer will sell you one, and you can buy a software CD, an instructional CD and a cable to connect the supertuner to your bike and to your computer at home.
Your dealer will probably know a good dyno tuner in your area able to re-map your ecm using the Supertuner.
Power Commanders are plug and play. No wire cutting and splicing.
 

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NSFW
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shify00,

Welcome!!

Hop? Did the tire come off the ground? Slipped belt in the tire? I've had something that bad in a car tire. I thought the wheel was coming off!

I had my '06R's front rotors warp and get replaced under warranty very early. But, that was a pulse in the brake lever, not a hop.

Good luck with the repair.

Doc
 

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NSFW
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Oh, yeah. I drilled the exhaust 5 years ago. No problems with the motor.
 

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The Massive Pr1ck
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Welcome.

Your front brake issue is common for that year. Many have misdiagnosed the issue as bent rotors, warped rotors, warped wheels, etc. It is common for the front wheel and rotor combo to not be perfectly round but this will not affect your issue, and neither will a small amount of runnout. The symptom for a warped rotor is call knockback, which is indicated by excessive lever travel during initial brake application.

What you have is a result of uneven bed in and inconsistent pad deposits on your rotor. You can temporarily correct the issue by sanding your pads and rotor to remove all deposits, and re-accomplishing the bed in procedure, however, it will most likely return.

I have tried several thing to correct this issue and had marginal results with Lyndell pads, however, after a couple of thousand miles the problem is coming back. Each time the problem has occurred, it has been at least temporarily corrected by removing all deposits from the disk, proving that out of round or warping is not the issue. Today I am ordering a set of EBC disks to test my theory that some of the factory disks actually have some sort of defect in the metal causing the uneven deposits.


Regarding the tune: One thing you can be sure of is that your bike can use a tune, even without mods. There are many tuners available, each with pros and cons. I am very happy with my PCV but it certainly isn't the only way to go. Do lots of research here and pick one.

One thing I can tell you for sure is to ignore the advice of a few here with a Kool-Aid problem. Some here think that the ONLY good flavors are HD, BMW, and Akrapovic exhausts.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks Mike, that makes sence. Do you think that maybe during the bed in process the p/o was too hard on the front brakes? I know with cars you should be light on the brakes untill they bed. Not really sure how long that takes with a bike though. I will try sanding back down for sure but looks like new rotors and pads are in my future. Keep me updated on what you find out.
 

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The Massive Pr1ck
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Having extensive experience with a variety of brakes, I used to think it was the bed in process but have changed my opinion with this particular brake. I have tried sanding and re-bedding used OE pads, new OE pads, new Lyndell pads, sanded and re-bedded Lyndell pads, and a variety of rotor cleaning and resurfacing processes. Each time the problem goes away for a very short time (OE pads) up to a thousand miles (Lyndell pads with rotor resurface).

I can't prove it, but my opinion is that there is something wrong with the metal in the actual disks interfering with surface consistency and friction. I have seen a similar issues with an F150 where even turning the disk didn't help. We looked at the disks under a microscope and there was an obvious variance in metal porosity around the circumference of the disk. Looking at these disks I can't see anything significant but I still think there is something wrong with the metal.
 
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