My slipper clutch got thrashed at the Easyrider's Bike Rodeo :banghead:

Bike barely moves forward now....


Questions:

1. Do the older friction plates swap into the slipper baskets? I'm guessing no.

I believe the plates and steels are the same numbers. Only the carrier is changed to make the "slipper clutch."

2. If there is friction material on the slippers plates and they are just glazed over can I ruff them back up and repack? (I'm guessing there isn't much left on the plates to work with)

Not a great idea. If you have a micrometer, you can measure your plates and frictions, to see if they are still use able, and replace the ones that are worn. But you start "scuffing things" you're bound to introduce contaminants to your oil system. Not my idea of a good way to save a buck.

3. If I want to reuse my old Barnett Kevlar Extra disc that's been sitting for 1.5 years do I need to soak in oil before? for how long? do I need to unpack before soaking or can i soak the whole basket?

I would have stored it in an oil bath, but you *may* be able to soak them for 30 minutes and then slap them in.

4. If my old clutch was starting to slip a little before swapping to the slipper can I swap in stronger springs for a 'better' grab?

No need. The ramps on the holder should exert all the force you need.

Thanks for any/all answers...

You're welcome.

 

I believe the plates and steels are the same numbers. Only the carrier is changed to make the "slipper clutch." ...

Actually the plates and steels are different in the slipper clutch.

The early five spring clutch uses:
eight (8) 36702-01K clutch plates
nine (9) 36713-01K friction plates

The slipper clutch uses:
seven (7) 36702-08K clutch plates and one (1) 38841-08K clutch plate
seven (7) 36720-08K friction plates and two (2) 36713-01K friction plates

I'm not sure what the differences are but the part numbers aren't the same and I'm not sure if the packing order of the steel and friction plates is critical.

 

RJ, what I mean about the springs in my used old clutch pack was change the springs from red to gold or gold to red or whatever, I think I had 80 lb springs and I should have gone with the gold 100 lb???







I just need to repack my slipper with new plates is what this sounds like... any reccomendations? I don't need kevlar or carbon fiber, right? or could/should I get fancy?

here's my history (I'm hard on clutches)
stock clutch: slipped after a year, then dead at 10,000 miles
barnets kevlar extra disk: slipped at high rpm's after a year. dead the following year
slipper clutch: worked great for two summers. dead after spinning clutch instead of tire

I do alot of engine braking as I downshift alot

I like to do burnouts

 

RJ, what I mean about the springs in my used old clutch pack was change the springs from red to gold or gold to red or whatever, I think I had 80 lb springs and I should have gone with the gold 100 lb???

I know what you mean, and what you really should do is LEARN HOW TO RIDE.

You can try the harder springs, but it *shouldn't* be necessary.

I just need to repack my slipper with new plates is what this sounds like... any reccomendations? I don't need kevlar or carbon fiber, right? or could/should I get fancy?

I like the stock steels. They are a bit thicker than the ones from barnett. I definately don't like the extra plate clutch, those steels are TOO thin.

here's my history (I'm hard on clutches)
stock clutch: slipped after a year, then dead at 10,000 miles
barnets kevlar extra disk: slipped at high rpm's after a year. dead the following year
slipper clutch: worked great for two summers. dead after spinning clutch instead of tire

I do alot of engine braking as I downshift alot

I like to do burnouts

There is nothing wrong with any of this riding. Unless you fail to do a burn out. One failed burnout will fry a clutch.

 

Damn, F-Ville is hard on clutches!! Didn't Turk kill his clutch there a few years back??

 

Thanks guys.... good info, now all I need is the packing order for the slipper and I can repack that bad-boy.... can't wait to see how FUBAR the fried plates are.... I'll post pics!

 

would be nice if you could please post a price to rebuild your slipper....it might be the same as buying a new one? really curious..........Thanks!

 

Johnny you have to let the clutch out ALL THE WAY when doing burn outs.

 

You can get the complete assy for $191.66 from Chicago HD



http://chicagoharley.com/shop/advan...esult.php?keywords=37938-08KA&osCsid=fe5ba082b68af49892b488eb1bab0e70&x=19&y=12

 

anyone ever re-use their clutch nut? I know new ones have loc-tight in them, but I just wanna get back on the road and would likely replace the standby cluch with a new slipper this winter and spin a new nut on then... keep in mind I've re-used brake rotor bolts w/out problems in past...

your thoughts?

 

Im rather ruff on clutches myself, if you know or have access to a media/sand blaster you can have your steels blasted, check to make sure there not warped/ After blasting clean them real goos and then soak them in oil... Ive reused my steels seveeral times then all you have to do is buy fibers when there to worn..

As fot the nut, Ive reused mine, I just used aliitle loc tite...

 

I do have a sand blaster

..... I wasn't even going to use loc-tight but I WILL now....Thanks for the tip

 

Ask where you can re-gain some street cred too.....

 

Ive got about 8000 miles on my bike and it's on the 4th clutch and soon to be 3rd rear tire.. I ride about .6 of a mile at a time.. Pitts to starting line, finsh line then back to pitts...

 

I reused my nut too.

Just added a little loc tite and good as new.

I set the air wrench at 110 psi when putting on...maybe 4-6 month later I checked it with the clutch tool and it was right on at 160 ft-lbs with the torque wrench.

Rod

 

Back together with fresh oil.... works okay around the block twice, but jumped out of first a couple times.... it used to do that every now and then so I am pretty sure I already had a bent shifter fork, now it may be bent to all hell????

bent shifter forks and such are expensive fixes, right? cases have to be opened to get into trans, and expensive parts need to be ordered???

 

Yeah If you have a bent shift fork, got to go into the tranny... Someone got there shift forks race cut. May always stick the V&H second gear in, there harder shifter shaft, a destroyer crank, some CP pistons some heads, cams and throttle bodies.. If your going to open it up anyway.. Just my :2cent: LOL

 

Yes it has to come apart.

 

Here... I'll post it for you HotFoot

FOCK, THIS SUCKS....

Fly Lonnie in and we'll stock up on Canadian beer... he's have it done in a couple of hours....

HH

 

To make things a bit worse, not only does the motor have to come out, but to press in the second gear set requires some special tools. OhioVRod has them, as does Eagle HD in Lafayette.

Now the question......When do we make the road trip?

 

When it absolutely, positively is broken THEN I'll drop the motor........ I hope I have enough time to round up some bigger pistons and such.... no sense going through so much trouble to change out a bent fork, right? :diablo:

 

thats my point... I would go ahead and do it before you break something.....:hidesbeh:

 

spec on bolts for older style 5 bolt non-slipper is 85 in-pounds... is the new style 4-bolt slipper the same???

 

Sorry, but my 2010 VRSC Service Manual is at home.

I remember reading the clutch section and there is a critical location for the two different types of friction and steel plates. There are 2 of one type and 7 of the other type of friction plates and there is 1 steel plate that is different than the other 7 steel plates. The 2 different friction plates are located on opposite ends of the plate stack and the 1 different steel plate is on the gear side of the stack. I attached the slipper clutch instructions with an exploded diagram and parts list that shows the sequence. Remember to index the last friction plate (rotated relative to the others) and place it in the special top slots as was done with the five spring clutch.

The torque specification for the four spring bolts is the same as the previous torque spec for the five spring clutch (86 in·lbs or 9.7 Nm). I need to come into work tomorrow so I’ll try to remember to edit this if I see a different torque value if someone else hasn’t already answered.

 

Thanks Steve

I didn't know the plates were different........ good info!

 

Great info!! Thanks

 

I know this is an old thread, but I was wondering how you guys all got your 20% discount. I'm looking to upgrade to a slipper clutch...did you just call a place like Zanotti's and tell them you know about this site? Thanks for any help!

 

a couple dealers will give a discount just for asking, I get 20 off from the dealer I bought my bike from....

 

Hales HD will give you 20% off on parts.

http://haleshd.com/

 

Thanks everyone!