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Is there anyone that can rebuild the inverted forks on my R in Ontario Canada?
Yes I have a manual, and yes I could make up the tools I'd need but I really don't have the place to work on them, and I'd feel alot better is someone that knew what they were doing built them for me.
I want racetech springs and valves installed at the same time as well.

I would get all the parts and oil that would be needed to complete the job.
Thanks in advance.
Mike
 

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One tip that saved me hundreds was I removed the forks myself and took them to my local Harley dealership to have them replaced. Harley puts the labor of removing the forks at 3 hours labor. It's total bs. I had both removed and ready to drop off in 30 mins using the FSM and it was my first time doing the job. Super simple. Harley's hourly rate is $125 an hour so it was significant savings for me. Harley dealerships are literal theft. Even if it takes them 30 mins to remove the forks they will still charge what their books say it "should" take. Truly a scam imo.
 

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Is there anyone that can rebuild the inverted forks on my R in Ontario Canada?
Yes I have a manual, and yes I could make up the tools I'd need but I really don't have the place to work on them, and I'd feel alot better is someone that knew what they were doing built them for me.
I want racetech springs and valves installed at the same time as well.

I would get all the parts and oil that would be needed to complete the job.
Thanks in advance.
Mike
Reason for rebuild? The Racetech valve is a bit more involved then a 10 minute process both in install and setup. Forum member Knut is a great source of info on that matter.
Ron
 

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You can always ship the forks to Race Tech they'll take care of everything AND they're extremely experienced and competent with the install since it's their parts and their modification processes. I did a suspension mod on my off road YZ250WR race bike with Factory Connection, forks & shocks, best mod I've ever done on any motorcycle totally transformed the ride to amazing compliance let me climb and jump off of extreme inclines, go full speed down a wooped out track section no problem. I'm looking fwd. to doing the suspension on my R next, and I'll take them to Race Tech. Remove them yourself, box 'em up, ship them out they'll be back 100% perfect in no time, seals, springs, valves to your weight and rider preference that's my recommendation - later pick up their custom shocks to compliment the fork mods -yea it ain't cheap but it's worth it !
 

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If not in a big rush, as in when riding season is over, I can fix you up. Got all the tools and then some. Woodstock , Ontario. Shoot me a PM if interested. I've not done the Racetech valve before but familiar with the process and the fine details, I can get from member Knut here.
Ron
 

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Yea, I've read thru the instructions for the Gold Valve install & it seems doable Ron but a bit touchy in areas, and your special tools for disassembly would make the job much easier and less prone to damage. After removing the caps and changing the fork oil in my R upside down forks then dealing with getting the springs and caps re-installed ( Big Norm helped on that, no spring compressor tool needed ) i'm not doing the mod myself. RaceTech has all the tools, expertise and experience to do the job, and the price is really not bad especially if you get a discount coupon from the yearly M/C Expo like I did. If I was back up North and couldn't ride all winter I'd probably do it myself just to have a fun basement project but with a Race Tech suspension shop not far away I'll just help pay their bills - (y) :geek:
 

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Yea, I've read thru the instructions for the Gold Valve install & it seems doable Ron but a bit touchy in areas, and your special tools for disassembly would make the job much easier and less prone to damage. After removing the caps and changing the fork oil in my R upside down forks then dealing with getting the springs and caps re-installed ( Big Norm helped on that, no spring compressor tool needed ) i'm not doing the mod myself. RaceTech has all the tools, expertise and experience to do the job, and the price is really not bad especially if you get a discount coupon from the yearly M/C Expo like I did. If I was back up North and couldn't ride all winter I'd probably do it myself just to have a fun basement project but with a Race Tech suspension shop not far away I'll just help pay their bills - (y) :geek:
Yup, all my tools were built to produce a completely mark free operation. Not a real fan of the racetech valve as it's still a single valving deal. Traxxion likey the best out there as in dual cartridge and now offer a low profile cap with damper adjustment but not only are the components and install expensive, the shipping adds a huge amount to the costs from my area. I do have the equipment to do that install as well as at one time I was going that route. Here's something you will find interesting. There's an o ring seal in the lower block to seal the slider tube. It's a Honda part and only available from them. Part #91352-MB4-003. It's a bastard size metric.
Ron
 

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Very Very Cool Tools Ron ! You should setup a Canadian Suspension Shop - what a great retirement gig ! Yea, I'll have to research the Traxxion setup it sounds more in line with my thoughts of the best setup - all the best off road suspension I've had was spring ( Not Air ) and each fork leg handles compression & rebound functions - manual air bleed - old school I know but all the attempts to better that have resulted many times in finnicky setup, higher maintenance and generally more expensive, with little or no real advantages. KISS principal just give me a well made or well modified conventional or upside down fork and let's ride. Lots of race bikes are sold on how revolutionary their new suspensions are but many times become a reason NOT to buy that bike and result in a return to springs & speed sensitive damping in the next model year. Give me the dimensions of that O ring Ron I'm not against Honda sourcing but it might run out I may be able to find a replacement I've got all kinds of O Ring spec sheets and engineering books I use for aircraft including metric -
 

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Very Very Cool Tools Ron ! You should setup a Canadian Suspension Shop - what a great retirement gig ! Yea, I'll have to research the Traxxion setup it sounds more in line with my thoughts of the best setup - all the best off road suspension I've had was spring ( Not Air ) and each fork leg handles compression & rebound functions - manual air bleed - old school I know but all the attempts to better that have resulted many times in finnicky setup, higher maintenance and generally more expensive, with little or no real advantages. KISS principal just give me a well made or well modified conventional or upside down fork and let's ride. Lots of race bikes are sold on how revolutionary their new suspensions are but many times become a reason NOT to buy that bike and result in a return to springs & speed sensitive damping in the next model year. Give me the dimensions of that O ring Ron I'm not against Honda sourcing but it might run out I may be able to find a replacement I've got all kinds of O Ring spec sheets and engineering books I use for aircraft including metric -
Honda 91352-MB4-003 - O-RING (40.5X2) | Partzilla.com . As you know HD don't sell it. They only sell the assembled fork tube with either right or left axle blocks already attached. I tested the normal size metrics up and down from that size and didn't feel the fit was the best. These are cheap enough and can be had everywhere even though the Honda part was likely obsolete 20-30 years ago.
Ron
Ron
 

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Amazing Honda is easiest source going back 20 -30 years ? Glad they're still available but Showa certainly has that O ring since it's their fork - or is it the axle block from H-D that dictates a certain O Ring ? If so why the heck would Honda have it ? You're right H-D wont sell it I'm sure but Race Tech or Traxxion or any good suspension shop would certainly be able to get it - it's just for us weekend warrior repair geeks that have to scrabble around to get one outside of the Guru's that are plugged into the main vein of OEM suppliers - In any event looks like buying a dozen of those little suckers is a smart play so thanks Ron for the info - another little gem I've been lucky enough to get from this website ! (y):geek:
 

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Amazing Honda is easiest source going back 20 -30 years ? Glad they're still available but Showa certainly has that O ring since it's their fork - or is it the axle block from H-D that dictates a certain O Ring ? If so why the heck would Honda have it ? You're right H-D wont sell it I'm sure but Race Tech or Traxxion or any good suspension shop would certainly be able to get it - it's just for us weekend warrior repair geeks that have to scrabble around to get one outside of the Guru's that are plugged into the main vein of OEM suppliers - In any event looks like buying a dozen of those little suckers is a smart play so thanks Ron for the info - another little gem I've been lucky enough to get from this website ! (y):geek:
Unless one replaces the actual slider tube, the oring will never be needed. Very few will ever do that and HD still sells the fork slider with the block attached. Racetech, via an Italian firm can get replacement tubes, or for a rechrome tube option, is the only reason I dove that deep into it as well as the Traxxion deal to see how it was done. That and my original slider was undersize and would never seal correctly, so I had a spare to play with. At the time I just bought another unit from HD to replace it, not knowing all the options. Those fork tube assemblies from HD are a stupid price. By the way, there are no grub screws in these block attachements , which can be the case with some metric bikes. Heat, to soften the paste and just unscrew, to disassemble. The R and Sportser XR use the same tubes while late DX and all Muscles use a slightly different length. Left and right are different lengths as well. 10mm shorter on the right fork.
Ron
 

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Very Interesting all that Ron - you obviously learned a lot about all the pitfalls of the H-D fork sliders the hard way so thanks for sharing that how much under size was the slider tubes that were leaking 10-15 thousands ? More ? I'll have to measure mine I noticed while on the lift some seeping happened from the fork seals while the front wheel was dangling off the floor so I'm sure I'm on the short list for a mandatory reseal job - which of course will morphe into the RaceTech or Traxxion Mod finally getting performed.
 

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My case from what I saw was a slight out of round near the minimum spec. Close to .0005 at 90* checks. While most of the time the seal worked, some large bumps it didn't quite control the sealing for the out of round condition. The odd time it would seep when forks were extended as when on the lift. Of course, first time I resealed it and when that failed the mike came out to find out why. High side was 1.691 and low side was 1.6905 That again, in my view is a minimum of 1.690" and a max of 1.691 for tolerance. Of course, my new one came in at 1.6912. That .0002 is just enough to make the seal a tad more sticky then say a tube at what I feel optimum to be 1.6905. Why it was out of round, don't know but the only logical reason is somewhere along the line there might have been a mark and rather then polishing with the tube spinning, sanding might have been done in a localized area instead. Suspecting that, I made a tube spinning fixture should any clean up be needed down the road. As you can see, not a lot of working tolerance in size. Keep the mike handy as to not over do it. Only the first 10" of chrome needs attention if mark removal or polishing is needed. From there on up, the tube might as well be bare as it does sweet fk all .
Ron
 

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Holy Crap Batman you talking 5 ten thousandths ? I would think the fork seals could accommodate that out of roundness easily due to spring function - but I'm working at a disadvantage here I've never personally taken my U D forks apart - is that even a spring lip seal in there Ron ? Also are there replaceable slider bushings ? I'd think play in those would be a bigger factor if you had 10-20 thousandths or even more of play maybe seal couldn't handle it ? I'll say my off road upside down forks with over 11" of travel the slider bushings are a 100 % always replaced item when the suspension shop tears them down but knowing H-D they probably told Showa to build cheaper V Rod forks without any replaceable bushings ?
 

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Holy Crap Batman you talking 5 ten thousandths ? I would think the fork seals could accommodate that out of roundness easily due to spring function - but I'm working at a disadvantage here I've never personally taken my U D forks apart - is that even a spring lip seal in there Ron ? Also are there replaceable slider bushings ? I'd think play in those would be a bigger factor if you had 10-20 thousandths or even more of play maybe seal couldn't handle it ? I'll say my off road upside down forks with over 11" of travel the slider bushings are a 100 % always replaced item when the suspension shop tears them down but knowing H-D they probably told Showa to build cheaper V Rod forks without any replaceable bushings ?
They have a full rebuild kit for them. When you buy the rebuild kit from HD, it comes with upper and lower bushings, seal, washer and clip. One kit per leg and they are actually not bad in price. Yes seal has a garter spring. If there's a 5/10s low point the seal will bridge across this and have less lip pressure. Seal is fairly firm in roundness. I had an annoying seeper under certain bump conditions. It could range from nothing on a ride to a light wet smear to actual one or two drips at the bottom. The area of less lip pressure likely had less oil control in certain conditions.
Ron
 

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Great info Ron, I did notice on the lift that the seepage seemed related to the wheel weight off the floor as they didn't really seep much with weight on them. I'm assuming that when the forks are completely extended either oil between the seal and the end of the fork stroke internally is forced out past the seal and/or the weight of the wheel being pulled straight down by gravity tends to put a small side load on the play in the possibly worn bushings which allow the seal lip to have as you say less lip pressure to control oil leakage. In any event it's an early warning sign that a reseal job will be needed soon and if the kit comes with bushings yes absolutely replace everything 100%. I did try to feel for looseness fore and aft with the wheel off the floor and noticed a little bit but I think now a better test is to put a board under the tire and get the fork off of the topped out ( fully extended ) position about a half inch ( while on lift ) then feel for looseness. It took about 16K miles ( and a 5 wt fork oil change ) over the 12K miles I bought the bike with to " break in " the forks on the R Model. Stiffest, stickiest forks I've ever felt initially - now they work well but starting to seep - time for me to consider the Race Tech or Traxxion mod so they don't return to original high stiction & excessive compression damping. (y) ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Reason for rebuild? The Racetech valve is a bit more involved then a 10 minute process both in install and setup. Forum member Knut is a great source of info on that matter.
Ron
Well first off, I'd like my forks redone since I have zero history on the service on the bike and I have 60,000kms on it. I'm 260lbs so I'd like a spring setup closer to my weight as well.
That's why I was thinking about racetech springs and revalve it while I'm there.
They aren't leaking, maybe I should just get the oil changed out and ride it?
 

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That's what I did with mine but I went to 5 Wt oil for my lighter weight and to get the forks to respond to the road as they were dead stiff, rode it for a few more years only now have seepage so next service will be the valve kit. You might need to go the other way (higher viscosity) with the weight, but thicker oil alone won't increase the ride height it'll just slow down the rate of fork compression and rebound. It might work for you though you should pm Ron Babos above don't know if he's willing but he's got the tools to disassemble and he's in Ontario oil changes are pretty easy and if the fork spring rate seems OK and your not bottoming out but they ride a bit low you could increase the preload spacer length during the oil change and go to a higher weight fork oil, & leave the rest alone for now. Good Luck with it ! (y):geek:
 
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