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EXCELSIOR
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Chatter/shudder of brakes is another issue, not fork related.

I didn't have it till I switched to Lyndall pads and within 1000 miles brake discs were awful.
Ended going back to stock pads, removing the rotors and sanding glaze off and eliminated most of it. In the end I'll be replacing the discs.
 

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I said chatter, but maybe the word I should have used was "clatter". My '12 Dyna did it something awful right from day one. So it was nothing unusal to me with the D. What I'm refering to is a sound the bike makes under braking and hard bumps, I suppose it could be loose tolerances in the steering head/neck bearing, or just a rattle of the suspension. But, like I said, my dyna always did it, probably more of just a Harley quirk. Although I will take it to the dealer sometime soon, just to have them test ride and make sure everything is tight and right for the vrod.
 

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EXCELSIOR
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There is a phenomenon refered to here as the "clunk", and a couple possible reasons and cures or not for it.

One is as you suspected the head bearings. Check the adjustment, you can find reference here if you do a search for "fall away". After making sure the head bearings are properly set, there was an update related to the steering stem and stem nut on later models.

Early models used an aluminum stem and later ones use a steel stem, also the later nut is flanged. Both items are an improvement but the stem can not be purchased individually but the nut can. You can check easily, there's a cap that screws onto the stem and covers the nut, remove it, only hand tight. There will either be a nut with tab notches and a lock tab (early type) ot a flanged nut without tab and notches. Thisis the one you want to have.

Also early Kelsey Hayes braked models, there is a bit of slop in the holes where the pad retaining pins fit. I find on my 04 that if you roll it forward and apply brake it makes a noise, a click more than a clunk, then if you roll it back and apply brake it makes the noise again. The pads float and stop as the holes limit movement, I think the bare aluminum fender amplifies the noise. Can't say this applies to those bikes with Brembo brakes.
 

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Hello everyone
I bought a 11-1535 progressive suspension kit for my muscle 2014 and I have had a lot of trouble braking the front wheel. when I brake the front wheel with a small touch on the brake the wheel starts to vibrate a lot. I changed the oil fork twice (20w after 10W), cut the spacer that comes with the kit according to the manual (34mm both sides). I checked the full front brake, checked the steering wheel and everything is all right ...
One thing I noticed is that the progressive suspension website (rev.C) manual tells me NOT to cut the spacers and the manual that came in my kit tells me to cut 34mm the spacers (rev.D).
I wonder if anyone had similar problems? Anyone have any ideas? because I am thinking of returning the original HD springs ...
 

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When you fill fork tubes with fluid, you need to pump the fork tube up and down (This can be difficult) to get the fluid to flow through the dampener. When you pump the fluid you will see air bubbles come out. It is not until you see the air bubbles stop that you can get an accurate level for the oil.

I recommend using a fork tube fluid tool for this job. It makes life a lot easier.

https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0121-Fork-Level/dp/B000GZPCYI/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2M4H8EESD21BJ&keywords=fork+oil+level+tool&qid=1563049984&s=gateway&sprefix=fork+oil+,aps,159&sr=8-3

....

Some advice:
I have rebuilt suspension several times, and despite what you see on Youtube, I can not for the life of me keep this a clean job.

Every time I rebuild suspension fork fluid ends up every where and the crap is ultra slick.

What I finally started doing is purchasing a plastic drop cloth from Lowes or Home Depot and lining my work space with it. The stuff gets on you and under your feet and it makes oil seem like sticky tar.

Lastly: I recently did this job with racetech emulators and progressive fork springs using Motul 20w fluid (Racetech recommended weight).

I weigh about 185 lbs. I keep my suspension on my race bike pretty stiff. Using the shim length that progressive provides was way to stiff for me. The suspension felt jagged and unforgiving, at one point I found myself having a difficult time getting out of road seems and dips. I don't know if this is a result of putting Racetech emulators with progressive forks. I am just letting you know you may have to adjust those shims. I ended up taking about 1.5" off my shims and made the vrod ride closer to my Aprilia.
 

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Hello everyone
I bought a 11-1535 progressive suspension kit for my muscle 2014 and I have had a lot of trouble braking the front wheel. when I brake the front wheel with a small touch on the brake the wheel starts to vibrate a lot. I changed the oil fork twice (20w after 10W), cut the spacer that comes with the kit according to the manual (34mm both sides). I checked the full front brake, checked the steering wheel and everything is all right ...
One thing I noticed is that the progressive suspension website (rev.C) manual tells me NOT to cut the spacers and the manual that came in my kit tells me to cut 34mm the spacers (rev.D).
I wonder if anyone had similar problems? Anyone have any ideas? because I am thinking of returning the original HD springs ...
I had this very same confusion. I tried to communicate with the Racetech tech guy about this and couldn't get a straight answer. At one point it was recommended that I add 25mm of preload which was impossible, because at that length the shim wouldn't reach the cap. I used progressive springs and Racetech emulators.

I had to cut down my shims a few times until I was close to what I wanted. The bike is still a little stiffer than I prefer.

I tried to research if there was a formula to figure out shim length, and that must be too technical a question.

You can get 2" PVC pipe and experiment with the shims. Mine are at the point where there is just some effort to put the cap back on. I did purchase preload adjuster caps, but I did not need to add preload where they are now. I have a feeling the springs will brake in over time and become looser. I honestly considered returning Progressive springs too, I think regular duty is set up for a much heavier rider than me with stock exhaust.
 
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