Harley Davidson V-Rod Forum banner
41 - 49 of 49 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,508 Posts
Great explanation of all that Ron & Thanks - I wish we could work on this together, you got this optimized for the stock H-D OEM installation restrictions and I want to take it to the next level - I'll be contacting you by pm when I get a little closer to my final configuration - think of a working vacation to Florida for a week or two next year - paid of course. If not a good travel time maybe a NDA and consultation from your home in Canada ? Thanks, Steve (y) :cool:
 

·
Registered Insane
2003 VRSCA
Joined
·
253 Posts
I have had that "update" grommet for the topless application hanging on my parts wall FOR YEARS! I never thought about the effect it might have NOT installing it. DONE! Took like 5 minutes and most of that time was in locating the correct drill bit! Thanks again, Ron. You scared me into finally doing it. :geek:
 

·
Registered Insane
2003 VRSCA
Joined
·
253 Posts
Ron I was hoping you could help me out here. After changing that IAT sensor location my bike is running horribly. After moving it, I ran the IAC Auto-Calibrate and AutoTune through my ThunderMax. The IAC auto-calibrate I ran last night before going to bed. It had the rear cylinder running rich. So I figured the AutoTune would clear it up and planned on going for a long ride in the morning. Rode it this morning and it's acting like I've got a bad spark plug. Hesitations. No codes. So after a 45 minute ride I brought it home and ran the IAC again. This time rear cylinder was lean. Ran Autotune. I just got back from running through nearly two full tanks of fuel and it's still running horribly. It ran aces before I switched the location of that IAT sensor from the battery area to the airbox lid.

-Sean
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,508 Posts
So put the IAC back where it was and see what happens ?! The old dictum - undo what you just did to try to vindicate science and it will either clear up the new problem or prove that you don't know what the F'K is going on - and create the need for answers for the new problem - because it ain't going back that will fix it. Unpeeling the layers of the onion. I do know guys complain about the TMax - might be part of the problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,228 Posts
Ron I was hoping you could help me out here. After changing that IAT sensor location my bike is running horribly. After moving it, I ran the IAC Auto-Calibrate and AutoTune through my ThunderMax. The IAC auto-calibrate I ran last night before going to bed. It had the rear cylinder running rich. So I figured the AutoTune would clear it up and planned on going for a long ride in the morning. Rode it this morning and it's acting like I've got a bad spark plug. Hesitations. No codes. So after a 45 minute ride I brought it home and ran the IAC again. This time rear cylinder was lean. Ran Autotune. I just got back from running through nearly two full tanks of fuel and it's still running horribly. It ran aces before I switched the location of that IAT sensor from the battery area to the airbox lid.

-Sean
Doubt that it has anything to do with the problem. Normally the temp differences between locations is minimal and will have no effect when going down the road. Temp differences show up only on a shutdown and sitting for 10 minutes or so, where heat soak can occur. Then some running differences can be felt, mostly at idle or jerky at 3k if the tune is lean in that area to start with. The IAT has some fuel control but nowhere to what you are experiencing. Hell, I can unplug mine and go around the block and it will run the same. Wasn't intentional but forgot to plug it in once. It effects both cyls at the same time, not just one, so suspect it might be Tmax related. I've not used Tmax on the v rod but on a softail once. It can be quirky.
 

·
Registered Insane
2003 VRSCA
Joined
·
253 Posts
I had to cut back on the wiring shroud. There wasn't enough length to give me a firm seat and I was sucking air.
 

·
Registered Insane
2003 VRSCA
Joined
·
253 Posts
No the IAT sensor. It was backing out of the airbox cover because it was being pulled on due to it's short length. I cut back on the harness shroud very carefully so as not to slice any wires and was able to free it up enough, pulling it out of the harness a bit. To give it enough length to reach the air filter cover.
 
41 - 49 of 49 Posts
Top