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Ha, finally found another rare person that believes as I do w.r.t. K&N. I don't use K&N, neither on my V-Rods nor on my HD Tourers.
Yup. I ran my 113 with that SE filter. The dust collection in the throttle body was unreal and I thought part of that was from the standard crankcase breathers inletting to the throttle body. When I built the 120ci, I remote vented the head breathers. Same shit with dirt in the TB. That was the end of it for me and oiled K&N air filters. Never saw that with the paper filters. I might not be the sharpest marble in the package but my v rod will never seen anything but paper while I own it.
Ron
 

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Ron...I pulled the bottom tray off and took a look at what need to be trimmed. Seems fairly straight forward but are there any areas that you recall that I should pay more attention too?
It's like the old saying "Measure twice cut Once".....thanks
 

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Ron...I pulled the bottom tray off and took a look at what need to be trimmed. Seems fairly straight forward but are there any areas that you recall that I should pay more attention too?
It's like the old saying "Measure twice cut Once".....thanks
The area that goes over the rad pipe needs a bit of stiffening, or a custom made rubber pad bolted to the bottom of the box to rest on the tube. I actually have a thin aluminum half round bonded to the pipe, where the rubber sits on. Other then that, where to cut , it's obvious.
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
I finished my mod and wanted to share the outcome. Cutting wasn’t hard, but make sure to plan and take it slow. I used a hack saw blade and cut around about a 1/8” away from where I wanted the final finish. Used a bench sander and hand sanded to final “thickness”. I cut it viewing from the top and turned it over looking at what’s beneath from time to time.

Once cut was finished I painted the bottom because during sanding I scuffed a few areas and couldn’t t get back looking decent even sanding down to 3000 grit. Painting was simple and came out fine.

With input from RBABOS I elected to keep the stock canister in place and closed up the internal vent port also adding a 90 degree elbow to the canister cap. Used RTV to seal around the canister cap where it meets the canister body. RTV’d the elbow where it penatrated the cap. I force threaded a small set screw into the stock vent port to seal it. Sealed up perfectly.

From the elbow used 5/16 fuel tubing and drilled half inch hole for the tubing to go outside the air box. The location I chose worked well since I wanted the tubing to route down behind the rear cylinder down to the ground. There is a molded piece of the lower that looks tempting to use but beware that space may be tight because that space fits the fuel lines. I may have to use some heat shielding where the hose comes close to the head and cylinder? Will check when I ride it at length.

I’m going to try to just put a filter on the end of the hose (filtered air going into breather) rather than adding a catch can. I’m hoping that the stock canister will handle the most of the oil and drain back into the crank case.

Last piece was relocating the sensor. Drilled hole in the air box top and built up a “bung” for it to fit using 2 nylon washers and JB Weld.

That about covers it and hopefully the pictures help it make sense.
 

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Great job JoeCam IAT probe location looks ideal - let us know after riding it for a while how much ( if any ) oil comes out the drain hose /vent - hopefully it stays dry I for one don't want oil dripping on the rear tire - if so I'd say a catch can may be worth the $ for me I did one tank slapper on the R model on a cold rear tire I and that was a real eye opener - don't want to cause my own with oil drips - Thanks ! it looks like a real sanitary mod you did there - (y)
 

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I finished my mod and wanted to share the outcome. Cutting wasn’t hard, but make sure to plan and take it slow. I used a hack saw blade and cut around about a 1/8” away from where I wanted the final finish. Used a bench sander and hand sanded to final “thickness”. I cut it viewing from the top and turned it over looking at what’s beneath from time to time.

Once cut was finished I painted the bottom because during sanding I scuffed a few areas and couldn’t t get back looking decent even sanding down to 3000 grit. Painting was simple and came out fine.

With input from RBABOS I elected to keep the stock canister in place and closed up the internal vent port also adding a 90 degree elbow to the canister cap. Used RTV to seal around the canister cap where it meets the canister body. RTV’d the elbow where it penatrated the cap. I force threaded a small set screw into the stock vent port to seal it. Sealed up perfectly.

From the elbow used 5/16 fuel tubing and drilled half inch hole for the tubing to go outside the air box. The location I chose worked well since I wanted the tubing to route down behind the rear cylinder down to the ground. There is a molded piece of the lower that looks tempting to use but beware that space may be tight because that space fits the fuel lines. I may have to use some heat shielding where the hose comes close to the head and cylinder? Will check when I ride it at length.

I’m going to try to just put a filter on the end of the hose (filtered air going into breather) rather than adding a catch can. I’m hoping that the stock canister will handle the most of the oil and drain back into the crank case.

Last piece was relocating the sensor. Drilled hole in the air box top and built up a “bung” for it to fit using 2 nylon washers and JB Weld.

That about covers it and hopefully the pictures help it make sense.
Looks good. Don't know if ABS and paint are best friends. Some paints will eventually cause some plastics to crack. I've not tried it on ABS and it could be immune to any solvent effects. I basically gave the whole underside a new uniform finish via 280 grit in the cut areas and red scotchbrite for overall effect. I'm also curious on how much oil exits the end of the breather hose. Worst case, catch can. Good part is, no oil injestion into the combustion chamber to make unnecessary carbon. It can really add up over time.
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Thanks gentlemen,
Street- I have the same concern about the oil. May try to route it off to side as much as possible. I’m definitely leaving the catch can option open.

RBABOS- the paint is Rustoleam and made for plastics according to the can. Will monitor for trouble.
 

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Completed my lower airbox tray mod today.
Just have to relocate the IAT from the battery(+) post to the left side of the tray.
 

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Completed my lower airbox tray mod today.
Just have to relocate the IAT from the battery(+) post to the left side of the tray.
Looks good. Keep an eye on this area. Depending on how the rad tube is installed, it might need a rubber pad between the bottom of box and the tube. I have one on my bike in that spot.
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Update:
I worked on routing the breather hose (fuel line) down and out to the side of the tire. As mentioned above dropping oil in front of the rear tire doesn’t sound like a wise decision. I found what I think is a real nice spot (not in your face conspicuous but looks pretty cool when you do notice it). Built a small bracket out of aluminum and mounted to existing subframe hole near the mid control shifter linkage.
I still have not had a chance to ride and check if it is spitting anything. Will post after some rides. Thanks.
 

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JoeCam.....that looks pretty trick!
I guess there's no concerns about the filter getting wet when it rains.....

Any update re the IAT's performance where located? I'm thinking about doing the same or Ron's method.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
No concerns. Water won’t travel up the hose that far if at all. The sensor has been at that location longer than this mod. Topless since last summer and it was in the same place with no issues
 

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I cut out the 4 holes with a hole saw in the lower box and drilled out the hole for the IAT sensor and moved it to the bottom and went topless. Bike will barely run after 15 minutes in hot weather, bucks, decel pop and stalls at idle. Only way to get it to run was take off the tin or run with the top on and the sensor back in the original location.

Can the IAT heat soak be making this much of a change to my tune?

I ordered a new IAT sensor from Europe part crosses to Renault or Citroën. Changing parts sucks since I don't have an analyzer for this bike that I can read what the sensors are doing.

See where Renault located the sensor in the intake manifold. What do they say location, location, location?

Motor vehicle Automotive air manifold Car Gas Auto part
 

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I see no reason for drilling holes in the bottom of the airbox, all it does is let hot air rise and be sucked into the engine. It's been proven the airbox is more than adequate for full air delivery and virtually no gains beyond maybe 1% at WOT are ever seen topless and/ or holed or bottomless, and the effect at different RPM's and heat soak conditions are not even discussed. :confused: I'm working on something now that will change a lot of this - (y) :cool:
 

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I cut out the 4 holes with a hole saw in the lower box and drilled out the hole for the IAT sensor and moved it to the bottom and went topless. Bike will barely run after 15 minutes in hot weather, bucks, decel pop and stalls at idle. Only way to get it to run was take off the tin or run with the top on and the sensor back in the original location.

Can the IAT heat soak be making this much of a change to my tune?

I ordered a new IAT sensor from Europe part crosses to Renault or Citroën. Changing parts sucks since I don't have an analyzer for this bike that I can read what the sensors are doing.

See where Renault located the sensor in the intake manifold. What do they say location, location, location?

View attachment 608633
In a true speed density system the IAT is usually located in the intake. HD uses a hybrid SD method on this bike. Where you locate the sensor can have an effect on how badly it can heat soak while sitting after a ride and it will be lean on a restart at that point until it cools back down. The heat soak no matter where you place them, some areas worse then others. If it's that sensitive, your tune is way off during this heat soak event, or there's another issue making it leaner then normal. Worst possible place to place the sensor is up toward the battery and high up. Convection is the worst there. Testing mine, it can cause up to a 1-1.5 AFR lean (10-14%) ve change on a good heat soak, which is why I went where I did from logging the events. Most I see is about 3%-5 now. No noticeable effect on running during heat soak during running after it comes off the warmup table on a heat soak restart. I see that logged slight lean on the integrators when the O2 sensors come on line and they quickly trim the AFR back to normal. Mind you, my bike is tuned for this setup with a 1-2% ve increase at idle as part compensation. Stock tune, stock IAT location, with a hot restart it would lope like a bastard at idle until sensors trimmed it back. Other wise it ran ok. Logging showed the stock IAT location does heat soak but the down side is it takes FOREVER to cool back down in that dead air space in the upper box. That was another reason I relocated it, as i n quicker recovery to ambient temps.
Stock cals are 14.6 at idle and without O2 sensors and heat soaked, the acutal afr can be in the 15-17 AFR range. No O2 sensors to trim the fuel, it will run like shit until that IAT cools down.
Ron
 
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