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Discussion Starter #1
So long story short my rear brake pedal was really stiff ( like pushing against a wall). I took the bike to the stealership and they said the ABS hydraulic control unit was the problem. Is this a common failure? The front brakes still work perfectly.
A new one is $350 plus install cost. I'm confident I can install it myself but are there any parts of the install that has to be done by HD.

Does anyone have one they can sell?
Can just the rear portion of this be bypassed?
 

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So long story short my rear brake pedal was really stiff ( like pushing against a wall). I took the bike to the stealership and they said the ABS hydraulic control unit was the problem. Is this a common failure? The front brakes still work perfectly.
A new one is $350 plus install cost. I'm confident I can install it myself but are there any parts of the install that has to be done by HD.

Does anyone have one they can sell?
Can just the rear portion of this be bypassed?
How about reminding the dealer there's a law suit happening right now about those ABS units. Make a call to the NHTSA and add fuel to the fire. Last damn thing I'd do is buy another defective POS that will eventually fail also. If should be free. Don't buy into that bs about not changing fluids every two years either. The module is built without a bypass. Normally if the module fails , braking should revert to normal braking, not have one or other fail.
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the info, I contacted the NHTSA and was advised to fill out a complaint which I did. I didn't realize the HCU failure was involved in ongoing litigation with HD.
 

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Cabeca de Ferro
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It's a common failure.I have seen it frequently,normaly on the front brake.You can bypassed the rear brake linking the two rear brake hoses with a brake line junction,
otherwise the rear brake will remain stiff.If you have skills and tools you can change the hydraulic unit by yourself,the only boring thing is the bleeding proccess,it will take you some time.
 

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so when will this abs brake failure turn into a landslide of claims ?so happy i chose not to have this time bomb on my bikes .
 

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Discussion Starter #6
If I bypass it using a junction block will it operate like a normal brake without ABS? Or will it still be very difficult to push?
 

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Cabeca de Ferro
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It will works like a conventional brake system.The brake pedal will be normal (no stiff anymore) but if you push it hard the wheel will lock (normal brake no Abs)
 

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Thanks for the info, I contacted the NHTSA and was advised to fill out a complaint which I did. I didn't realize the HCU failure was involved in ongoing litigation with HD.
Cool and thanks. I hate these damn corps trying to weasel out of safety obligations. The more reports that show up the more chance to get it resolved, on their dime, not ours. Hope there's no real serious accidents in the mean time.
Ron
 

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"Vrod King"
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My '09 has the ABS unit but the whole thing has been bypassed. The front and rear brake lines have been replaced with one from a non-ABS bike.
 

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abs

So long story short my rear brake pedal was really stiff ( like pushing against a wall). I took the bike to the stealership and they said the ABS hydraulic control unit was the problem. Is this a common failure? The front brakes still work perfectly.
A new one is $350 plus install cost. I'm confident I can install it myself but are there any parts of the install that has to be done by HD.

Does anyone have one they can sell?
Can just the rear portion of this be bypassed?
I believe its pretty hard to bleed it yourself(ABS)if not impossible. You have to take it to Harley so they can use that digital tech tool. I received a letter concerning my brake system yesterday. It was stating that I had never been in to have fluid changed and it went on to explain what happens to dot 4. Well I do change my fluid. I guess it must be due to the problems Ron was speaking of.
 

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Cabeca de Ferro
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You can bleed the ABS system in the traditional way with no problem,it just take you some more time to finish.The Digital Tech just make things faster.
When you bypass the ABS module the brake will works in a conventional way and the bleeding proccess will be faster.
I usually bleed the brakes, take a ride on the bike to warm up the system, and then I bleed them again to avoid any air bubbles remaining.
 

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ABS Failure = Brake Failure

I thought I would jump in on this conversation.

My ABS went out and like the rear brake issue, I had the front brake fail. The handle would not pull in and I was left with only the rear brakes. I do a lot of engine braking, so was not that serious. Could have been worse.

I replaced all of the brake lines with custom lines. I am tired of HD prices and wait times. I used Venhill and was very happy with the lines. I am currently in the process of removing all of the wiring involving the ABS since the failure caused a failure in the ABS Diodes as well. This means no brake lights. Hopefully this will reduce future problems.

Overall, it would have been easier to get a double banjo bolt and bypass the ABS module with two lines, but I wanted to make the bike more serviceable for the future if I had problems.

If you change lines out, the rear brakes use a pressure sensor for the brake lights. I bought an aftermarket banjo bolt sensor to alleviate more line connections and everything lined up great.
 

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I thought I would jump in on this conversation.

My ABS went out and like the rear brake issue, I had the front brake fail. The handle would not pull in and I was left with only the rear brakes. I do a lot of engine braking, so was not that serious. Could have been worse.

I replaced all of the brake lines with custom lines. I am tired of HD prices and wait times. I used Venhill and was very happy with the lines. I am currently in the process of removing all of the wiring involving the ABS since the failure caused a failure in the ABS Diodes as well. This means no brake lights. Hopefully this will reduce future problems.

Overall, it would have been easier to get a double banjo bolt and bypass the ABS module with two lines, but I wanted to make the bike more serviceable for the future if I had problems.

If you change lines out, the rear brakes use a pressure sensor for the brake lights. I bought an aftermarket banjo bolt sensor to alleviate more line connections and everything lined up great.
Got a link or pic for that?
Ron
 

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Banjo Bolt Switch is a 10mm x 1.00. The one I ordered was about .25" to long and I had to cut it shorter. Other than that it seems to be working just fine. I tested with a voltmeter, but not on the road yet.

Here is the link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071WRGN5H/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I am attaching two pics. One is for the Banjo Switch. The second is the tee I used on the front brake lines. I used Venhill for the brake lines. The tee fit real nice in place of the stock tee.
 

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Banjo Bolt Switch is a 10mm x 1.00. The one I ordered was about .25" to long and I had to cut it shorter. Other than that it seems to be working just fine. I tested with a voltmeter, but not on the road yet.

Here is the link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071WRGN5H/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I am attaching two pics. One is for the Banjo Switch. The second is the tee I used on the front brake lines. I used Venhill for the brake lines. The tee fit real nice in place of the stock tee.
Thanks.
Ron
 

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Shouldn't go fast till you know how to stop.

Geez, major hassle for H-D ABS brakes. Are they worth it ? Need a few stories where they cut in and saved someones A$$ big time. They are on every jet I work on and normally if there is a problem it's from lack of use, but they can be indispensable. Had a similar stiff rear brake pedal on my non ABS R Model last time I went to the mountains, went away after a few applications, when I got home found brake fluid seeping at hose banjo at rear brake caliper, failed hose internally, particles got in and would block the small ports and give a stiff pedal but little or no brake, new hose no problem, but at least it didn't affect the front brakes. Unless ABS is coupled to lean angle and G force all they do is keep weenie riders from locking up the brakes in a panic or low traction situation, which I guess is justification enough to have them on a production bike but how many racers specify them unless they are factory installed on their race bike ? :blahblah: :D
 

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Geez, major hassle for H-D ABS brakes. Are they worth it ? Need a few stories where they cut in and saved someones A$$ big time. They are on every jet I work on and normally if there is a problem it's from lack of use, but they can be indispensable. Had a similar stiff rear brake pedal on my non ABS R Model last time I went to the mountains, went away after a few applications, when I got home found brake fluid seeping at hose banjo at rear brake caliper, failed hose internally, particles got in and would block the small ports and give a stiff pedal but little or no brake, new hose no problem, but at least it didn't affect the front brakes. Unless ABS is coupled to lean angle and G force all they do is keep weenie riders from locking up the brakes in a panic or low traction situation, which I guess is justification enough to have them on a production bike but how many racers specify them unless they are factory installed on their race bike ? :blahblah: :D
When I bought mine, I wanted a Night Rod Special in matte black. The ABS model is what was available. Hindsight, I never would have bought it and I would have waited for a non-ABS model. I have been riding for a long time and this is the first bike I have ever had with ABS.

Now that I have changed the brake lines out, they are easy to get to. If I have a problem with a brake line failure, it will cost about $25 for a new hose and I will not have to tear anything on the bike apart to get to the line. I feel like I'm setting myself up to make future problems easier to work with.
 
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