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Autobanmod
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Winter time combined with 8 months homeoffice results in strange ideas.
606034
 

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"Vrod King"
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:unsure: At least you didn't run the vent tubes back and plumb them into the swing arm and use it as a puke tank.
 

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JD your ideas are always inspiring. What is the master plan here? There is two connections for the heads but do you have one breather for crank case too?
 

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Autobanmod
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I meant to install the 3 port catch tank on my dirt bike but when I held it in my hands i thought it would fit much better on the V-Rod. The master plan was combining mad max design with functionality. The heads are open to the crankcase, hence there is no need for an extra crank case venting line. On the other hand the catch tank has a bottom drain connection and I was considering to connect it to the dip stick port for self drainage of the oil spray back into the oil sump.
It works and is unique, mission accomplished.
 

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Premium Member
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I meant to install the 3 port catch tank on my dirt bike but when I held it in my hands i thought it would fit much better on the V-Rod. The master plan was combining mad max design with functionality. The heads are open to the crankcase, hence there is no need for an extra crank case venting line. On the other hand the catch tank has a bottom drain connection and I was considering to connect it to the dip stick port for self drainage of the oil spray back into the oil sump.
It works and is unique, mission accomplished.
Yes drain line I meant too. I did it already on mine and it works ok. Not the prettiest but like we Mad Max men like to say. Functionality before form.

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Autobanmod
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Very nice! That is a neat plumbing, could you please share info on the t-piece or dipstick thread?
 

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T-piece is completely home made from aluminium and tig welding. There second branch on the other side for turbo drain hose. Dipstick thread is stock M20x2,5. I found longer dipsticks from Ebay for Chinese dirt bike engines and cut it to suitable length and made own oil level markings. I have 1" deeper oil pan so two flies at the same time. Elbow hydraulic connector is industrial JIC to UNF fitting. JIC is similar than AN.
 

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Autobanmod
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The previous solution had the breather arrangement located underneath the airbox cover and I only noticed fumes during standstill/idle when engine was really hot, for example at a red light after exiting the Autobahn with engine fan starting.
Nevertheless, If it should be necessary, then I'm prepared to route the bottom port of the catchtank to the turbocharger air filter.
On the other hand, will it make any difference after working for 40 years in the maritime and oil&gas industry?
 

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The previous solution had the breather arrangement located underneath the airbox cover and I only noticed fumes during standstill/idle when engine was really hot, for example at a red light after exiting the Autobahn with engine fan starting.
Nevertheless, If it should be necessary, then I'm prepared to route the bottom port of the catchtank to the turbocharger air filter.
On the other hand, will it make any difference after working for 40 years in the maritime and oil&gas industry?
Good point. A few fumes and mist, just a daily occurrence. LOL
Ron
 

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I must be missing something. Just use a 3 port catch can (and attach it under the airbox cover or to the frame). The vac port of the can goes to a nipple right after the air filter on your turbo for an excellent source of vac (put a one way valve on it if you are worried, but I don't see a pressurization scenario when using a vac source here). The other two ports go straight to each head. Done. FYI, you really don't want oil laden with gas back into your crankcase...hence the catch can. If you have so much blowby that you are losing tons of oil by NOT putting what is capture back into the crank case you have other issues such as ring failure or too loose an engine build in terms of wall clearance (well at least for a street engine).

This topic is ancient and had tons of data to refer to. Best group of data/guys are the old Buick Grand National forums. I used to read that stuff like a bible for turbos.
 

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Have not found many or any negative side effects letting small amount of oil drain back to crankcase. It is true that it's been somewhat contaminated with ethanol gas I use. Every time I change oils they are almost like new. Maybe alcohol evaporates from the oil while not riding. However my oil change interval is short approx 2K because riding season is short and there's multiple vehicles to ride.

That vac from the turbo inlet I will sure test. I am also bit skeptic how strong it can be.
 

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Have not found many or any negative side effects letting small amount of oil drain back to crankcase. It is true that it's been somewhat contaminated with ethanol gas I use. Every time I change oils they are almost like new. Maybe alcohol evaporates from the oil while not riding. However my oil change interval is short approx 2K because riding season is short and there's multiple vehicles to ride.

That vac from the turbo inlet I will sure test. I am also bit skeptic how strong it can be.
The vac source before turbo absolutely works. I have a drag car from the 80's (countless turbos/configurations of the years) that has had an intake tube nipple for ages, leaves a nice purple spot on your thumb if you cover the hose and rev the engine. Pro tip: The nipple you use pre-poweradder should have a 45 degree slash to benefit from the venturi effect. If you are worried about pressurization add a check valve on that hose going to your can.

This setup works well for street applications. If you are going all out drag race with a loose engine (think concrete filled block that can't expand!) a dedicated vacuum pump is the way to go. On a bike? I suppose, but for what most people on this forum are building (and boost level sub 10 psi)....this is the way to go. Once again, if this doesn't do the trick your engine is already whupped and it's rebuild time. Crankcase evac systems are NOT meant to heal damaged engines, they are meant to increase ring sealing by depressurization (read: horsepower adder).
 

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One more thought: A lot of the OEMs use this method (evac line in the intake) PLUS the ubiquitous PCV valve when implementing forced induction. What I have seen is pcv off manifold to cover idle/vac in the manifold scenario. Then when boost is present, pcv is closed and source of vac/draw comes from the line connected to intake. I suppose this could be fairly easily implemented on our bikes with power adders (think thread in a pcv valve into the manifold....). Then again I don't see much vac at idle on these engines (and probably why there isn't a valve stock on our bikes).
 

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Have not found many or any negative side effects letting small amount of oil drain back to crankcase. It is true that it's been somewhat contaminated with ethanol gas I use. Every time I change oils they are almost like new. Maybe alcohol evaporates from the oil while not riding. However my oil change interval is short approx 2K because riding season is short and there's multiple vehicles to ride.

That vac from the turbo inlet I will sure test. I am also bit skeptic how strong it can be.
Could be. Only way to know is to ship an oil sample off to one of the mail-in labs that analyze oil for a fee. Then again, like you said with short oil change intervals it may be a moot point either way!
 

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Yep. This sounds easy task to do this winter. Currently waiting for bigger and meaner turbo to arrive and will tap it there. Engine is barely break in so there is no need for rebuild this time.
 
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