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Hello,
Has anyone else noticed a slight amount of front brake drag on their bike? Mine is a 2003 and I have replaced the stock calipers with OEM chrome calipers and noticed this slight amount to drag both before and after replacement. It is not enough to cause any resistance on the bike while moving, but you can hear the pads ever so slightly contacting the rotors if you let off the gas & pull the clutch in while you are rolling(lowest amount of engine noise), if that makes sense....

Thanks,
-John
 

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That's what they are supposed to do. Disk pads always ride against the rotors. HD pads are notorious for an annoying swish-swish noise, particularly on the rear. Aftermarket pads like Lyndalls don't make the noise.
 

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Hello,
Has anyone else noticed a slight amount of front brake drag on their bike? Mine is a 2003 and I have replaced the stock calipers with OEM chrome calipers and noticed this slight amount to drag both before and after replacement. It is not enough to cause any resistance on the bike while moving, but you can hear the pads ever so slightly contacting the rotors if you let off the gas & pull the clutch in while you are rolling(lowest amount of engine noise), if that makes sense....

Thanks,
-John
Unless the rotors are getting hot, I wouldn't worry about. My 2013 Dx has no drag to speak of and after a ride the front rotors are cool unless exposed to a braking event prior. Rear on the other hand, slight pad drag causes the rotor to be warm. That prick just doesn't retract as much. My softail was the same and a few Dyna guys I talked to found the same. No real fix, regardless of the amount of attempts. The seal design is responsible for a very small amount of piston retraction to free the pad from the rotor. In this design for the rear caliper, it's a bit lacking.
Ron
 

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I had the same problem with my 3/4 worn out pads, I just put Galfer S/M pads on the front of my R, cleaned the caliper pistons and after break in seating and almost 600 miles of quick mountain riding the drag went away - also I used a very small amount of copper anti-seize on the ring of the piston where it contacts the back of the pad and now the low speed drone vibration when coming to a stop is gone as well. I'm thinking the further out the pistons are pushed out (when the pads are worn down a good bit) the harder it is for the pistons to stay aligned with the bore they ride in (and the dirtier they get) so they can't be easily kicked back by the rotor or retract on their own properly for pad clearance.
 

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I had the same problem with my 3/4 worn out pads, I just put Galfer S/M pads on the front of my R, cleaned the caliper pistons and after break in seating and almost 600 miles of quick mountain riding the drag went away - also I used a very small amount of copper anti-seize on the ring of the piston where it contacts the back of the pad and now the low speed drone vibration when coming to a stop is gone as well. I'm thinking the further out the pistons are pushed out (when the pads are worn down a good bit) the harder it is for the pistons to stay aligned with the bore they ride in (and the dirtier they get) so they can't be easily kicked back by the rotor or retract on their own properly for pad clearance.
I agree with all you said. High temp copper Anti-seize also. Nothing worse then replacements that squeal on stops.
Piston cleaning is a must, especially on worn pad replacement. The piston has been exposed to grime and the last thing you want to do is shove it back into the caliper with this grime on it. Can really screw up retraction at that point.
Ron
 
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