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Two 2003 VRSCA's: CTHULHU is Black/Sterling, N/A ; EVIL TWIN is Anodized and S/C
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Thank you Ron Babos for setting me on this path! I started my engine stand project today drawing from his inspiration. I still have to make the U shaped cradle. Will take the metal I have to where there is a drill press tomorrow and drill the necessary holes to the correct specifications. For now I have the stand part made. It swivels so I can turn the engine upside down. All four points of contact with the wheels on the ground sit nice and flat with no rocking. I'll update later with more photos including the cradle and after I paint it.

Aside from the scrap metal I used for everything else, I bought the swivel from Home Depot. It's a trailer wheel stand swivel. I'm amazed at myself that this stand sits nice and flat on the wheels and doesn't rock.

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Two 2003 VRSCA's: CTHULHU is Black/Sterling, N/A ; EVIL TWIN is Anodized and S/C
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I had a ,ot of fun with my Uncle helping me with this project. We got all the steel as scrap from where he works. I laid a few nice beads here with this Lincoln PowerMig 210.

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I had a ,ot of fun with my Uncle helping me with this project. We got all the steel as scrap from where he works. I laid a few nice beads here with this Lincoln PowerMig 210.

View attachment 610621
View attachment 610620
View attachment 610619
Looks good. Remember, the bracket drawing I sent, the starter needs to be removed or the front plated trimmed to bolt on. Holes are very critical in layout and a slight oversize might be needed if you are off a bit. It can also be made out of 3 pieces, rather then a bent unit.
Ron
 

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Two 2003 VRSCA's: CTHULHU is Black/Sterling, N/A ; EVIL TWIN is Anodized and S/C
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yes I do plan on making it from 3 pieces and welding them together rather than a one piece with two bends. I've found from experience with other projects that the bend radius can eat up an indeterminate amount of length depending upon the material and since the holes would have to be measured and drilled prior to bending to fit in a press...makes more sense with 3 pieces.

I do kinda like the idea shown on the red one above where measured holes in bars could simply be welded on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Update on my engine stand project: Got it all finally welded together last Saturday. Waiting on a calm day to paint. Thanks to those who submitted ideas so I could make this! Made with re-purposed steel I got out of a recycling bin at my uncle's jobsite, with the exception of the trailer hitch swivel, which I got at Home Depot. Even the wheels were "found" items.

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Two 2003 VRSCA's: CTHULHU is Black/Sterling, N/A ; EVIL TWIN is Anodized and S/C
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
freudie1: You should sell this...
I agree, JJRod. Your stand looks very professional. Mine is quite cave-man. I was teaching my uncle to use his new PowerMig 210 by letting him do most of the welds on this stand. He definitely got the penetration required but maybe not so slick looking. Your TiG welds on the arms are very slick. Nicely done!

Sean
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Finally got some nice calm days to finish up the engine stand with the paint. (Painting outside). I've got some heavy square tubing not shown that I am using as a slip-fit over the cradle "arms" for the tab arms that will actually attach to the engine block. I sure hope it holds! Well, I'll find out today lol.

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Picked the most humid day yet this summer to lift my engine into the cradle. My brick floor was sweating and I was slipping, but between my Dad and I we finally got it into the cradle. Although I used a chain fall to carry most of the weight I ultimately exhausted myself with the lifting and maneuvering. Then I removed the chain fall to save weight on my ceiling hook and put to use a deer carcass hanger with some short straps just to keep the thing surely stable.


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