Sorry Ron, wrong link
I detected either rod knock or secondary tensioner knock right at start up about 1-2 seconds worth. Could be induction too as audio files suck at the best of time. I meant fully open the throttle with engine off. Both should move without jerking and feel for slop. I use the start throttle tension screw to hold them open and use a dental mirror and flashlight to look for cracks around the screw areas of the shafts. Looks like they seem fine in the vid but more opening and feeling is needed to be sure.Sorry Ron, wrong link
Looks ok to me. Believe it or not, that bike my bud had trouble tuning with tps values all over the place was brand new. Snapped front throttle shaft. One throttle plate would move, the other barely. Dealer picked up bike , replaced shaft and it was then tuned. How the bike came with a broken shaft from the factory with no miles is beyond me. Good old HD quality control, I guess.Here it is with the engine off. Feels very smooth
It is connected now but the first few times I tested it the ground wire was not on, I forgot to mention this, as when I was working on the bike I don't have a lift and didn't notice it when I dropped the oil pan since I was laying on the ground. But it is hooked up nowDid you reconnect the ground wire that goes on one of the oil pan screws on the rear right corner?
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This problem started right after the sump & side covers were off & back on so somehow it's most probable that it's related to that. Seems that the blasting media was carefully removed but there have been postings here that guys felt the abrasives were stuck in the pores of the metal possibly during the heating of the parts to set the powder coating up and maybe released when the engine heat opened the pores back up - the oil pressure check should tell for sure if that's the issue - a common pipe thread adapter is all that's needed to adapt a direct reading gage to the fitting - google HD-45309 to see what it looks like - his dealer should have one in the drawer with their V Rod tools but probably too ignorant to even know it. SAD. I'd still quickly inspect the wiring on the crank position sensor and the other sensors, spark plug bores for coolant etc. prior to start for the oil pressure check as the engine just doesn't sound like it's running correctly to me and other than low oil pressure not taking up the slack on the backside of the timing chain it should not be able to limit the Rpm to 4000 unless the engine has high internal friction and making metal, which it's not since the oil filter has no metal in it. Also a stumbling engine that's dying on it's own will lose oil pressure since it's not smoothly drawing & pumping oil, and if the engines getting that hot it's getting thin as well. Not Good. If oil pressure is good enough cold and the low O/P lights not on and the engine still runs badly there is something else wrong with it I believe -
yes the only wire that was disconnected was the one going to the oil pan, I didn't even see it at any point taking the pan off and back on until the second time I took the pan off. When I actually found the wire dangling I was excited because I was hoping that was my issue, but no dice.Yea you can rig it up yourself Lapoza the speed shop will have what you need just play around with different fittings and the gauge hose 'cause you'll never find the H-D tool - I've only seen one for sale in 4 years - Has your ground wire on the top of the engine remained connected when the pan ground wire was off ? Something like that a no ground condition would certainly confuse the ECU & make it run bad.
Premature excitement, never seems to work out.yes the only wire that was disconnected was the one going to the oil pan, I didn't even see it at any point taking the pan off and back on until the second time I took the pan off. When I actually found the wire dangling I was excited because I was hoping that was my issue, but no dice.