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Yea, that would do it Ron ! this just seems to be something that coincided with the work he did - maintenance often begets maintenance, which means you disturb something that worked then it became disfunctional then you have to figure out what you did and restore it to proper function. Not to say it couldn't be another failure that occurred at the same Mx event but that's less probable. I see this all the time on aircraft - when we pick them up they put a green sheet in the windshield that says it's OK to fly I always say it's just a permission slip to try to fly it and find out what they screwed up while they were performing other maintenance and repairs on it. Happens ALL the time. If no metal in filters that's great - I'd check all wiring connections to all sensors quickly, pull spark plug boots & check recessed bores for coolant, check throttle plates like Ron says then install and check oil pressure on one start - and a gentle rev to 3000 - 4000, if O/P is low pull oil pump & fix that asap like KRRob says, if it's OK look deeper into the wiring for sensor wiring damage. Go from simple checks to more complex - not the other way around where you disable the engine then stare at the walls. If there's no metal in the filter & it runs there's lots of additional troubleshooting you can do, carefully. Again - The real question is did it ever run properly immediately after you reassembled it Lapoza ?
 

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Hmm I dont know its a bit noisy. When was the last time valves were adjusted and chain tension checked. Thats something to think of later. Since u had pan off and all looks good. Back to the oil pressure check. Like already said, u could have a oil pump relief valve issue. Pull pan remove pump check movement of relief plunger.
 

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Sorry Ron, wrong link

here

I detected either rod knock or secondary tensioner knock right at start up about 1-2 seconds worth. Could be induction too as audio files suck at the best of time. I meant fully open the throttle with engine off. Both should move without jerking and feel for slop. I use the start throttle tension screw to hold them open and use a dental mirror and flashlight to look for cracks around the screw areas of the shafts. Looks like they seem fine in the vid but more opening and feeling is needed to be sure.
Ron
 

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It'll be noisy if it doesn't have proper oil pressure on cam chain tension shoe - and it sounds noisy to me - Also yea, whole engine will be noisier and eventually overheat but if there's metal in the filters the engines probably trashed. Hopefully not but you have to start with a known and work from there - 1. metal in filters - no - 2. oil pressure check - if no good, pull pump if relief stuck get a new pump - if good pressure look elsewhere for all prior disturbed wiring, sensors etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #66
No metal at all in the original oil filter which I rode hard with several times when I initially put the bike back together At least this is some good news for me
604861
604862
 

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Yea ! That's very very good & you might just luck out - proceed & check the oil pressure soon as you can with a direct reading gage - Ron's got the #'s you should see in normal operations at Rpm's below 4000 - do that and you're a bigger Revo expert than the H-D dealership ( Ok Sorry - that's not the biggest compliment Lapoza since they're pretty much complete idiots ) But save all the photo's and send them to the dealership & to the H-D mothership and when this is all over ask them - WTF over ? (y) :D
 

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I know if the timing chain tensioner is too loose it seems to also affect oil pressure. And maybe his valve timing is off from loose chains.If the chains can be that loose. Because he should hear chain noise upon start up also. Well once he checks the oil pressure that would be my next check. He needs that tool. Dont want to believe valve touching piston(s).
 

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Here it is with the engine off. Feels very smooth

Looks ok to me. Believe it or not, that bike my bud had trouble tuning with tps values all over the place was brand new. Snapped front throttle shaft. One throttle plate would move, the other barely. Dealer picked up bike , replaced shaft and it was then tuned. How the bike came with a broken shaft from the factory with no miles is beyond me. Good old HD quality control, I guess.
Ron
 

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This problem started right after the sump & side covers were off & back on so somehow it's most probable that it's related to that. Seems that the blasting media was carefully removed but there have been postings here that guys felt the abrasives were stuck in the pores of the metal possibly during the heating of the parts to set the powder coating up and maybe released when the engine heat opened the pores back up - the oil pressure check should tell for sure if that's the issue - a common pipe thread adapter is all that's needed to adapt a direct reading gage to the fitting - google HD-45309 to see what it looks like - his dealer should have one in the drawer with their V Rod tools but probably too ignorant to even know it. SAD. I'd still quickly inspect the wiring on the crank position sensor and the other sensors, spark plug bores for coolant etc. prior to start for the oil pressure check as the engine just doesn't sound like it's running correctly to me and other than low oil pressure not taking up the slack on the backside of the timing chain it should not be able to limit the Rpm to 4000 unless the engine has high internal friction and making metal, which it's not since the oil filter has no metal in it. Also a stumbling engine that's dying on it's own will lose oil pressure since it's not smoothly drawing & pumping oil, and if the engines getting that hot it's getting thin as well. Not Good. If oil pressure is good enough cold and the low O/P lights not on and the engine still runs badly there is something else wrong with it I believe -
 

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Did you reconnect the ground wire that goes on one of the oil pan screws on the rear right corner?

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #73
Did you reconnect the ground wire that goes on one of the oil pan screws on the rear right corner?

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
It is connected now but the first few times I tested it the ground wire was not on, I forgot to mention this, as when I was working on the bike I don't have a lift and didn't notice it when I dropped the oil pan since I was laying on the ground. But it is hooked up now
 

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Discussion Starter #74
This problem started right after the sump & side covers were off & back on so somehow it's most probable that it's related to that. Seems that the blasting media was carefully removed but there have been postings here that guys felt the abrasives were stuck in the pores of the metal possibly during the heating of the parts to set the powder coating up and maybe released when the engine heat opened the pores back up - the oil pressure check should tell for sure if that's the issue - a common pipe thread adapter is all that's needed to adapt a direct reading gage to the fitting - google HD-45309 to see what it looks like - his dealer should have one in the drawer with their V Rod tools but probably too ignorant to even know it. SAD. I'd still quickly inspect the wiring on the crank position sensor and the other sensors, spark plug bores for coolant etc. prior to start for the oil pressure check as the engine just doesn't sound like it's running correctly to me and other than low oil pressure not taking up the slack on the backside of the timing chain it should not be able to limit the Rpm to 4000 unless the engine has high internal friction and making metal, which it's not since the oil filter has no metal in it. Also a stumbling engine that's dying on it's own will lose oil pressure since it's not smoothly drawing & pumping oil, and if the engines getting that hot it's getting thin as well. Not Good. If oil pressure is good enough cold and the low O/P lights not on and the engine still runs badly there is something else wrong with it I believe -

I can't find a source for that adapter online although I did find something similar, which I have ordered, do you happen to know the thread that goes in the engine? I have a local hot rod type shop that I might be able to get an adapter from I could use as a temporary test just to continue troubleshooting
 

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Yea you can rig it up yourself Lapoza the speed shop will have what you need just play around with different fittings and the gauge hose 'cause you'll never find the H-D tool - I've only seen one for sale in 4 years - Has your ground wire on the top of the engine remained connected when the pan ground wire was off ? Something like that a no ground condition would certainly confuse the ECU & make it run bad.
 

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Yea you can rig it up yourself Lapoza the speed shop will have what you need just play around with different fittings and the gauge hose 'cause you'll never find the H-D tool - I've only seen one for sale in 4 years - Has your ground wire on the top of the engine remained connected when the pan ground wire was off ? Something like that a no ground condition would certainly confuse the ECU & make it run bad.
yes the only wire that was disconnected was the one going to the oil pan, I didn't even see it at any point taking the pan off and back on until the second time I took the pan off. When I actually found the wire dangling I was excited because I was hoping that was my issue, but no dice.

Jeremy
 

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yes the only wire that was disconnected was the one going to the oil pan, I didn't even see it at any point taking the pan off and back on until the second time I took the pan off. When I actually found the wire dangling I was excited because I was hoping that was my issue, but no dice.

Jeremy
Premature excitement, never seems to work out. :ROFLMAO:
Ron
 
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