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I bought a 2006 night rod a couple months back and it was running great. Decided to take off the oil pan, trans cover, alternator cover. Water pump cover, and have it all powder coated black. When I reinstalled everything after powder coat the bike starts and runs but won’t go over 4000 rpm. After about 4 minutes of riding it dies at every stop sign and if I continue to ride it the engine has steam coming off the heads. I’ve parked it and removed the water pump cover and thermostat and I don’t see any issues. I followed the manual when adding coolant to hopefully ensure it’s not air locked. I’m not getting any codes either which is the strange thing. I’m really stumped and the local Harley dealership was o help at all. They literally told me they don’t know why it wouldn’t run right after re installing all the parts. I’m starting to wonder if maybe the oil pickup assembly came loose and it’s not getting oil. Aside from tearing it apart and looking for problems I don’t know what I could have done wrong. Any help would be appreciated
 

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I bought a 2006 night rod a couple months back and it was running great. Decided to take off the oil pan, trans cover, alternator cover. Water pump cover, and have it all powder coated black. When I reinstalled everything after powder coat the bike starts and runs but won’t go over 4000 rpm. After about 4 minutes of riding it dies at every stop sign and if I continue to ride it the engine has steam coming off the heads. I’ve parked it and removed the water pump cover and thermostat and I don’t see any issues. I followed the manual when adding coolant to hopefully ensure it’s not air locked. I’m not getting any codes either which is the strange thing. I’m really stumped and the local Harley dealership was o help at all. They literally told me they don’t know why it wouldn’t run right after re installing all the parts. I’m starting to wonder if maybe the oil pickup assembly came loose and it’s not getting oil. Aside from tearing it apart and looking for problems I don’t know what I could have done wrong. Any help would be appreciated
You are aware of the issues with powder coating and residual blast media left behind, traveling through the engine, basically destroying it.? There shouldn't be any issues with just cover changes like that otherwise. Sounds like you filled coolant and did the air bleed so don't think that's it. That would show up as temp light coming on. While in there, did you check the tripple sprocket bolt and do the loctite trick?
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You are aware of the issues with powder coating and residual blast media left behind, traveling through the engine, basically destroying it.? There shouldn't be any issues with just cover changes like that otherwise. Sounds like you filled coolant and did the air bleed so don't think that's it. That would show up as temp light coming on. While in there, did you check the tripple sprocket bolt and do the loctite trick?
Ron
Yes I rinsed the covers out really good before reinstalling them. Although now I’m in a panic thinking maybe I missed some. I just turned the bike over with the water pump cover off and the impeller spins fine so that eliminates a broken shaft. I’m going to drop the oil pan off and the oil pickup to make sure it’s sealed and didn’t come loose. I didn’t check the triple sprocket however so I’ll do that when I open it up
 

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I checked the triple sprocket last night and it was tight, still going to pull it this weekend and do the locktight trick. Still has the issue of not wanting to go past 4k on the tach and after about 5 minutes of riding it dies when i come to a stop and the cooling fans run for about 30 seconds or longer. What is the best way to check coolant temp and oil pressure?
 

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I checked the triple sprocket last night and it was tight, still going to pull it this weekend and do the locktight trick. Still has the issue of not wanting to go past 4k on the tach and after about 5 minutes of riding it dies when i come to a stop and the cooling fans run for about 30 seconds or longer. What is the best way to check coolant temp and oil pressure?
I suspect the culprit here is the tune or tune related in some form to not go over 4k. That in itself is odd as just about any shit tune loaded will go way past without any tuning at all. You have no codes? Have you done a fuel pressure test for psi output. Usually 57-60 psi and should hold for while when pump stops. In this case a code won't be thrown if below spec and it will run quite lean depending on how low the pressure is. As for best way to check coolant temp, PV with that signal set for viewing and for oil pressure , usually a hard mounted analog gauge.
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I suspect the culprit here is the tune or tune related in some form to not go over 4k. That in itself is odd as just about any shit tune loaded will go way past without any tuning at all. You have no codes? Have you done a fuel pressure test for psi output. Usually 57-60 psi and should hold for while when pump stops. In this case a code won't be thrown if below spec and it will run quite lean depending on how low the pressure is. As for best way to check coolant temp, PV with that signal set for viewing and for oil pressure , usually a hard mounted analog gauge.
Ron
It was running fine before I had the parts powder coated though. I did add regular gas instead of high octane before I pulled the covers. I’m going to cyphon that out for my next step
 

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It was running fine before I had the parts powder coated though. I did add regular gas instead of high octane before I pulled the covers. I’m going to cyphon that out for my next step
Won't be the fuel grade causing it. I'd check fuel pressure. Do you know anyone who has either a TTS or a PV tuner to run a log with? Data might point to something. I will read it if you wish. Neither tuner has to be married to your bike and it doesn't matter if there's is married either. Data logs will still work in either for that operation. I'd revisit all areas of the engine you worked on, sensor plugs and all that. 9/10 problems are caused from the last job done on the bike. Happens to all of us.
Ron
 

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I bought a 2006 night rod a couple months back and it was running great. Decided to take off the oil pan, trans cover, alternator cover. Water pump cover, and have it all powder coated black. When I reinstalled everything after powder coat the bike starts and runs but won’t go over 4000 rpm. After about 4 minutes of riding it dies at every stop sign and if I continue to ride it the engine has steam coming off the heads. I’ve parked it and removed the water pump cover and thermostat and I don’t see any issues. I followed the manual when adding coolant to hopefully ensure it’s not air locked. I’m not getting any codes either which is the strange thing. I’m really stumped and the local Harley dealership was o help at all. They literally told me they don’t know why it wouldn’t run right after re installing all the parts. I’m starting to wonder if maybe the oil pickup assembly came loose and it’s not getting oil. Aside from tearing it apart and looking for problems I don’t know what I could have done wrong. Any help would be appreciated
Yeah maybe the sensor next to alternator cover.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Took the bottom part of the air breather off tonight and noticed the vacuum line that runs around the velocity stack was collapsed shut on the outside of the cover under the seat. I think I might have rotated it when reinstalling and pinched it closed. I’m hoping tomorrow when I get it back together that was my issue
 

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Took the bottom part of the air breather off tonight and noticed the vacuum line that runs around the velocity stack was collapsed shut on the outside of the cover under the seat. I think I might have rotated it when reinstalling and pinched it closed. I’m hoping tomorrow when I get it back together that was my issue
That's not a vacuum line but a crankcase breather tube. It would still breathe from the front crankcase breather bullet. Doubt thats the issue. It would take a lot of pinching to reduce it to it's basic internal size of 3/16 or 1/4" of the actual hose Id, plus there is a reducer in the head fitting also. So, what's your fuel psi?
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #12
That's not a vacuum line but a crankcase breather tube. It would still breathe from the front crankcase breather bullet. Doubt thats the issue. It would take a lot of pinching to reduce it to it's basic internal size of 3/16 or 1/4" of the actual hose Id, plus there is a reducer in the head fitting also. So, what's your fuel psi?
Ron
I don’t know how to check the fuel psi. I’ll have to look that up
 

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I don’t know how to check the fuel psi. I’ll have to look that up
Find yourself an older GM fuel pressure tester. Vrod uses an R12 fitting. I got my fitting from a rad shop that use to service old air conditioners for free. If you can get the R12 female fitting, you can use any gauge you can find, even an air gauge in the 0-100 psi scale . Just make up a hose connector between the two. Here's an example of mine. The bleed valve and barb fitting , you can get away without. Just bleed the pressure off at the fitting with a rag under the fitting. A tool rental is another option.
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I’ll see if autozone has one I can rent. Bike is scheduled to go to the shop on Tuesday. It just seems odd that it ran fine before I took it apart and the only thing at all I’ve been able to find so far is the rear hose being smashed flat from twisting.
 

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I don’t know how to check the fuel psi. I’ll have to look that up
Go to your local Autozone, advance auto parts, ETC and borrow a fuel line pressure tester. They will loan it you for free. Takes about 2 minutes to install and read your pressure. There is a schrader valve on the right side of the throttle body between the two stacks you screw the gauge into. Its got a black cap on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
So last night I put the side cover back on the alternator, checked the triple sprocket bolt and it was tight, filled with oil, checked coolant which was still full to the cap. Added oil to the top full line on the dip stick, started the bike and road fairly hard for about 2 miles. about a mile into the trip the cooling fans both kicked on. Came to a stop sign toward the end of the ride and the bike died again while the cooling fans stayed running. Check engine light came back on. made it a half mile to my house and the bike died again while pulling into the garage with the clutch pulled in. once it gets warm it will die under 2000 rpm when I pull the clutch. as I pulled into the garage I left the key on and the bike in run. After about a minute the fans were still running and I checked the water pump cover and the pipes with an infrared gun, the pump cover was reading 240 degrees and the two pipes coming into the pump were at 225 degrees. At this point I started the bike back up to cycle the coolant through the radiator and the fans turned off after about 20 seconds. While this was happening, with the bike on the kickstand in neutral running, the oil light was flickering on and off. I shut the bike off and then read the codes.

I got code U1255 and P0188. The P0188 is the AIT sensor. I have had it in the past since assembling the bike from powder coat and cleared it. I pulled the sensor and at 74 degrees it was reading 1.8k ohm. I put it underneath the electric hand dryer in the bathroom and the reading dropped to 1.2k ohm. So the sensor seems to be working itself and now I'm suspecting a cabling issue. This morning I checked the bike and there is no oil underneath although I didn't have time before leaving for work to check the oil level in the bike itself.

The U1255 code from what I have read indicates a possible blown fuse or electrical issue somewhere in the bike. And I am thinking with my oil light flickering at the end and the lack of acceleration that my problem is oil pressure or the pump not working to full capacity. At this point I won't have much time tonight to work on the bike and I have an appointment at the dealership tomorrow to take it in. but Im suspecting the issue I'm having with lack of power and overheating is oil pressure/flow related. Ive ordered the power vision black tuner display for the future so I'm not having to guess at pressures and temperatures.
 

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So last night I put the side cover back on the alternator, checked the triple sprocket bolt and it was tight, filled with oil, checked coolant which was still full to the cap. Added oil to the top full line on the dip stick, started the bike and road fairly hard for about 2 miles. about a mile into the trip the cooling fans both kicked on. Came to a stop sign toward the end of the ride and the bike died again while the cooling fans stayed running. Check engine light came back on. made it a half mile to my house and the bike died again while pulling into the garage with the clutch pulled in. once it gets warm it will die under 2000 rpm when I pull the clutch. as I pulled into the garage I left the key on and the bike in run. After about a minute the fans were still running and I checked the water pump cover and the pipes with an infrared gun, the pump cover was reading 240 degrees and the two pipes coming into the pump were at 225 degrees. At this point I started the bike back up to cycle the coolant through the radiator and the fans turned off after about 20 seconds. While this was happening, with the bike on the kickstand in neutral running, the oil light was flickering on and off. I shut the bike off and then read the codes.

I got code U1255 and P0188. The P0188 is the AIT sensor. I have had it in the past since assembling the bike from powder coat and cleared it. I pulled the sensor and at 74 degrees it was reading 1.8k ohm. I put it underneath the electric hand dryer in the bathroom and the reading dropped to 1.2k ohm. So the sensor seems to be working itself and now I'm suspecting a cabling issue. This morning I checked the bike and there is no oil underneath although I didn't have time before leaving for work to check the oil level in the bike itself.

The U1255 code from what I have read indicates a possible blown fuse or electrical issue somewhere in the bike. And I am thinking with my oil light flickering at the end and the lack of acceleration that my problem is oil pressure or the pump not working to full capacity. At this point I won't have much time tonight to work on the bike and I have an appointment at the dealership tomorrow to take it in. but Im suspecting the issue I'm having with lack of power and overheating is oil pressure/flow related. Ive ordered the power vision black tuner display for the future so I'm not having to guess at pressures and temperatures.
PV will not read oil pressure . There's no signal source in the bike for that. At those temps, it would not be too unusual for the light to flicker at idle. Oil temp closely follows the coolant temp. I guess checking the venting and fuel pressure is out of the question, huh?
Ron
 
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